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Wood burners


Peter009

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Sounds good. There is something quite therapeutic about feeding a fire- Its primal !

13 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

To be honest if the tiles are fitted onto fire proof board with an air gap between that and the hull sides etc you will have no problem. Still think its too near the sides and always wonder why peeps fit em like it? theres plenty of space for small stuff like a squirrel to be further out and heat will circulate better rather than heating the tiles up.

Well where mine is situated if it cam out any further it would either be right in front of a window or in front of the doors. It is very tight. I have increased the size of the hearth to get some projection at the front of the stove.

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Lizette said:

Sounds good. There is something quite therapeutic about feeding a fire- Its primal !

Well where mine is situated if it cam out any further it would either be right in front of a window or in front of the doors. It is very tight. I have increased the size of the hearth to get some projection at the front of the stove.

 

 

Also important for catching the red hot embers that will fall out!.?

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3 minutes ago, Ally said:

Is it fixed down to the hearth? The way you are talking about moving it makes me think maybe not. It should be.

It must be restrained from movement for boat safety cert so it doesn't go down the boat when you hit something solid.

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10 minutes ago, Ally said:

Is it fixed down to the hearth? The way you are talking about moving it makes me think maybe not. It should be.

I started to fix it down but thought I ought to test it first . So, to move it I would just need to break the seal of cement where the flue meets the body and twist. I shall think it through over night .

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12 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

It must be restrained from movement for boat safety cert so it doesn't go down the boat when you hit something solid.

And I will be hitting something solid, believe me! The marina owner said to me you don't need to secure it but I am following all guidelines . It just  not worth it in my opinion. Some of the requirements do not make sense to me but anything to do with  fire , gas and diesel- I am gonna follow

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1 hour ago, Lizette said:

And I will be hitting something solid, believe me! The marina owner said to me you don't need to secure it but I am following all guidelines . It just  not worth it in my opinion. Some of the requirements do not make sense to me but anything to do with  fire , gas and diesel- I am gonna follow

Good thinking.  I'm afraid your marina are wrong, it does need to be securely fixed in some manner. Have a Google of "Soliftec, Stoves in boats." It will show you a page with a clearly drawn and noted explanation of the recommendations.  

I still feel you should be OK, so long as your fireboard and airgap are good measurements.  ?

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3 hours ago, Lizette said:

I started to fix it down but thought I ought to test it first . So, to move it I would just need to break the seal of cement where the flue meets the body and twist. I shall think it through over night .

For future reference dont use cement, use envirograff high heat silicone to seal the flue joints. Works much better on boats  as it doesnt crack with vibration or clouting the hull unlike fire cement.

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4 hours ago, Cheshire cat said:

I'm impressed Mac of Cygnet can still remember what his boat looks like. With Covid restrictions and trouble on the pennine canals I'd have thought cruising this year has been a complete write off!

 

You're right.  I've not been to the boat (or anywhere else really) since February.    Fortunately I left it winterised then and in September had it taken out of the water to save on licence and ensure it didn't sink due to bilge pump failure.  Nigel at Shire Cruisers has been inside and says things look OK, but I imagine the potato and onion I left in the food cupboard will be quite interesting!

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  • 7 months later...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can the hearth base simply be a slab of slate, granite, or basalt (I haven't decided yet) sat directly on a laminate floor, and secured by means of the stove's legs bolted through the slab and into the flooring?

 

In other words do I need fireboard between the slate and the floor? My BSS chap told me I don't need one and it can sit directly on the floor because the legs on my Morso Squirrel 1410 are long enough to allow sufficient air to pass underneath, and the fact that hot air rises anyway? The two walls surrounding the hearth fulfil the criteria required regarding the fireboard, air gap etc, so it's just the floor arrangement I need confirmation about please. 

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14 minutes ago, Grassman said:

Can the hearth base simply be a slab of slate, granite, or basalt

 

Yes

 

14 minutes ago, Grassman said:

sat directly on a laminate floor, and secured by means of the stove's legs bolted through the slab and into the flooring?

 

Yes

 

14 minutes ago, Grassman said:

My BSS chap told me I don't need one and it can sit directly on the floor

 

The BSS have no authority over stove installation - all they can comment on and and demand rectification, or BSS failure is if there is signs of scorching on surrounding woodwork or furnishings,

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2 hours ago, Grassman said:

 

Can the hearth base simply be a slab of slate, granite, or basalt (I haven't decided yet) sat directly on a laminate floor, and secured by means of the stove's legs bolted through the slab and into the flooring?

Fine as long as the slab is attached to the flooring (or some other fixed part of the boat structure, e.g. floor bearers), as well as the stove to the slab.

How are you going to get to the underside of the flooring to tighten up bolts going all the way through?

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4 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Yes

 

 

Yes

 

 

The BSS have no authority over stove installation - all they can comment on and and demand rectification, or BSS failure is if there is signs of scorching on surrounding woodwork or furnishings,

BSS stipulates that stoves and hearths should be fixed to either the floor or a bulkhead

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21 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

As I do not have access to the full BSS site, in common with many other interested parties, I can only refer to the advisory notes as below. under pointers to keep in mind.

https://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/stay-safe-advice/solid-fuel-stoves/new-stove-new-chimney/

 

The actual BSS requirements state :

 

Non‐portable appliances must be incapable of unintended movement in any direction

 

I'd suggest that bolting it down onto a slab of granite (or concrete paving stone etc) would be sufficient - it certainly has been for several BSS surveys on our NBs

(Although - it could have been that the examiner didn't know the rules, or never bothered to check it was incapable of movement).

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10 hours ago, David Mack said:

 

How are you going to get to the underside of the flooring to tighten up bolts going all the way through?

 

Eh? I thought most people used coachbolts going into the subfloor for this job rather than nuts and bolts?

 

image.png.b564d6cbca5ee8e5158d7ac5fa497eec.png

 

If you don't want to drill big holes for coachbolts into the feet of the stove or the bolts would have to go through at an odd angle, then you can drill smaller holes and mount brackets to the feet with the coachbolts going through the brackets.

 

 

IMG_20210720_031434.jpg

Edited by blackrose
  • Greenie 1
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Thanks for your helpful answers. I thought it would be okay but wanted to double check by seeking your advice to make sure before ordering the hearth slab.

 

Kim from the Little Chimney Company is supplying and fitting the flue and said he would secure the stove using coach bolts. I think he mentioned brackets for the stove legs and then securing through the slate and into the floor.

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6 hours ago, blackrose said:

Eh? I thought most people used coachbolts going into the subfloor for this job rather than nuts and bolts?

 

image.png.b564d6cbca5ee8e5158d7ac5fa497eec.png

 

That's a coach screw, not a coach bolt. The post I was responding to specifically mentioned "bolting", so I assumed nuts would be involved.

 

This is a coach (or carriage) bolt.

89242_P&$prodImageMedium$

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13 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

The actual BSS requirements state :

 

Non‐portable appliances must be incapable of unintended movement in any direction

 

I'd suggest that bolting it down onto a slab of granite (or concrete paving stone etc) would be sufficient - it certainly has been for several BSS surveys on our NBs

(Although - it could have been that the examiner didn't know the rules, or never bothered to check it was incapable of movement).

So, to continue with pedantry, how can this be achieved without being fixed to the floor or a bulkhead?

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