PRM 150 oil change

[Slim]

Can anyone tell me if it's possible to suck the oil out of a PRM150 gearbox using a Pela. I've got all 3 possible tubes. In the past I've managed to get to the drain plug but passing years has made this more and more difficult.

Many thanks,

 

Frank

 

[john6767]

I usually suck the oil out with a pump, probable get 3/4 of it out.  Every few times I remove the drain plug to get the remainder out, but it is a real faff.

[Victor Vectis]

I reckon that I could remove the drain plug but worry that I wouldn't be able to get it back in again.

 

I use a Pela type pump to suck out what oil I can, measure how much has come out, and put that much fresh oil back.

But that ammount seems to vary each time. It has been as little as 600ml or as much as 1 litre. Never the quoted capacity of the gearbox which, I think, is 1.4 litres.

Edited November 10, 2018 by Victor Vectis
Spellin.

[Alan de Enfield]

53 minutes ago, Slim said:

I've managed to get to the drain plug but passing years has made this more and more difficult

Why's that then ?

 

Is the Hull moving closer to the gearbox, or is the gearbox 'dropping' so you cannot get to the drain plug ?

[Sea Dog]

6 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Why's that then ?

 

Is the Hull moving closer to the gearbox, or is the gearbox 'dropping' so you cannot get to the drain plug ?

Probably more to do with maturity and specifically getting up again after hanging upside down in the bilge I'd be guessI g!

 

I'd be wary of pumping out my PRM150 - I feel it important that the old oil as close as possible to 100% removed so as to get clean oil in there after the change.  Won't it wait 'til Bob-a-Job week when you can get a boy scout to do the bilge diving?

 

[Boater Sam]

 

It is a good idea however to occasionally remove the magnetic drain plug to wipe off the swarf.

You could fit a hose and ball valve instead of the plug or even a sump pump. I believe the plug is a 1/2" BSP thread but stand to be corrected.

[blackrose]

Bob-a-job-week? You'd be lucky to get any youngster down there these days.

 

How soon do you need it done? I should be coming over to Banbury sometime around Christmas. I could get down there and do it for you. Send me a PM if you can wait until then.

[Jess--]

I changed the oil on my perfectly working prm150 after completely ignoring it since I bought the boat (about 3 years)

 

of course 6 hours running later it decided to spring a leak (selector shaft) and dumped all the nice fresh oil into the bilge leaving me with no drive.

 

 

[system 4-50]

Pela every time. I think (not sure) I get about a litre out per time by poking about a bit.  Get the oil warm before you start. Have tissue ready to look at the dip stick when filling up as it is hard to see.

[blackrose]

20 minutes ago, Jess-- said:

I changed the oil on my perfectly working prm150 after completely ignoring it since I bought the boat (about 3 years)

 

of course 6 hours running later it decided to spring a leak (selector shaft) and dumped all the nice fresh oil into the bilge leaving me with no drive.

 

 

I know a bloke who ignored his prm 150 services. When it had done about 200 hours it got very hot and stopped giving much drive. He rang prm who asked him for the service history. When he admitted he hadn't even done the first 50 hour service they asked him for the serial number and then told him his warranty was void. Those oil changes are crucial, especially the first few. Noris in isleworth ended up rebuilding his gearbox at a cost of about £600. Much cheaper just to change the oil at the recommended intervals.

Edited November 10, 2018 by blackrose

[blackrose]

I get my prm sump plug out without any problem. The hardest part is getting the oil out without spilling it everywhere. I use a 2 pint plastic milk bottle with a cut out.

[Jess--]

1 minute ago, blackrose said:

I know a bloke who ignored his prm 150 services. When it had done about 200 hours it got very hot and stopped giving much drive. He rang prm who asked him for the service history. When he admitted he hadn't even find the first 50 hour service they asked him for the serial number and then told him his warranty was void. Those oil changes are crucial, especially the first few.

not a new boat, just about 30 years old now so I'm not too worried about a shaft seal failing

[Flyboy]

1 hour ago, Boater Sam said:

 

It is a good idea however to occasionally remove the magnetic drain plug to wipe off the swarf.

You could fit a hose and ball valve instead of the plug or even a sump pump. I believe the plug is a 1/2" BSP thread but stand to be corrected.

Since when has a PRM 150 had a magnetic drain plug ?

[Sea Dog]

10 minutes ago, blackrose said:

I get my prm sump plug out without any problem. The hardest part is getting the oil out without spilling it everywhere. I use a 2 pint plastic milk bottle with a cut out.

As do I, but I find the hardest part is seeing the clean oil level on the dipstick. Even touching it against clean paper, usually a reliable method, seems to be indeterminate. 

 

30 minutes ago, system 4-50 said:

Pela every time. I think (not sure) I get about a litre out per time by poking about a bit.  Get the oil warm before you start. Have tissue ready to look at the dip stick when filling up as it is hard to see.

A litre is quite a lot less than a full oil change. It wouldn't do for me. Maybe that's the engineer's curse though: everything has to be done just right - whether it really needs to be or not!

 

[blackrose]

1 hour ago, Flyboy said:

Since when has a PRM 150 had a magnetic drain plug ?

Mine does (2005). Any earlier ones anyone?

[Slim]

3 hours ago, blackrose said:

Bob-a-job-week? You'd be lucky to get any youngster down there these days.

 

How soon do you need it done? I should be coming over to Banbury sometime around Christmas. I could get down there and do it for you. Send me a PM if you can wait until then.

Blackrose, that's a really kind offer but push comes to shove I can twist the arm of a nephew or great nephew. You've reminded me that I have to update my details. Because of water level issues I've had to move from Cropredy to a soulless marina near Napton.

 

3 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Why's that then ?

 

Is the Hull moving closer to the gearbox, or is the gearbox 'dropping' so you cannot get to the drain plug ?

So that's why. There's me thinking it was my arms shrinking. I know it's nothing to do with arthritic knees and back.

3 hours ago, Boater Sam said:

 

It is a good idea however to occasionally remove the magnetic drain plug to wipe off the swarf.

You could fit a hose and ball valve instead of the plug or even a sump pump. I believe the plug is a 1/2" BSP thread but stand to be corrected.

My problem is reaching down beneath the box to get at the drain plug. Up to recently, no problem, now v difficult

3 hours ago, blackrose said:

Bob-a-job-week? You'd be lucky to get any youngster down there these days.

 

How soon do you need it done? I should be coming over to Banbury sometime around Christmas. I could get down there and do it for you. Send me a PM if you can wait until then.

Blackrose, that is a very kind offer but I can always twist the arm of a nephew or great nephew.

[blackrose]

2 hours ago, Flyboy said:

Since when has a PRM 150 had a magnetic drain plug ?

Mine does (2005). Any earlier ones anyone?

[blackrose]

15 minutes ago, Slim said:

 

Blackrose, that is a very kind offer but I can always twist the arm of a nephew or great nephew.

When they have the socket drive or spanner in their hands make sure they understand that because the drain plug is on the underside of the gearbox they have to turn it clockwise when looking from above to undo it. Because it's upside down It's easy to tighten it by mistake. 

Edited November 10, 2018 by blackrose

[Flyboy]

2 hours ago, blackrose said:

Mine does (2005). Any earlier ones anyone?

Mine  is 2008 and it doesn't. Why would you need one anyway, The gears are constant mesh and the clutch plates are bronze so nothing likely to attract to a magnet.

[Tonka]

Mine is 1994 and has the magnet. Probably changing oil in the next 3 days

[blackrose]

6 hours ago, Flyboy said:

Mine  is 2008 and it doesn't. Why would you need one anyway, The gears are constant mesh and the clutch plates are bronze so nothing likely to attract to a magnet.

What are those little bits I find stuck to my sump nut then? Constant mesh still wears doesn't it?

Edited November 11, 2018 by blackrose

[Boater Sam]

Even the bearings wear off bits of steel. Magnetic, Since when I don't know but I have seen most have a magnet in them.

[nb Innisfree]

I used an adapter plug to fit a manual pump to our 150. Be wary though, at some point drain plugs changed from BSP to metric.

[Guest]

16 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

As do I, but I find the hardest part is seeing the clean oil level on the dipstick. Even touching it against clean paper, usually a reliable method, seems to be indeterminate. 

 

A litre is quite a lot less than a full oil change. It wouldn't do for me. Maybe that's the engineer's curse though: everything has to be done just right - whether it really needs to be or not!

 

I made a wooden "dip stick" from a piece of dowel, two nicks with junior hack saw as per proper dip stick, painted with matt black paint. Self tapping scew through the top in a tee shape to act as a level (looks a bit like a lock handcuff key but smaller.) Works a treat when filling up. For the avoidance of doubt, I put the genuine (unusable) item back in when finished. I did think of using "lolly" sticks meant for freezing lollies but decided to make something more permanent.
I have used the pella pump to good effect, though doubt it gets every last drop out; best to use drain plug if poss.
edit PRM told me to use mineral oil only in this box, never synth or semi.

Edited November 11, 2018 by Guest

[bizzard]

12 hours ago, Flyboy said:

Mine  is 2008 and it doesn't. Why would you need one anyway, The gears are constant mesh and the clutch plates are bronze so nothing likely to attract to a magnet.

Yes, but they are helically cut gears so have a lot of teeth rub. From new there would be some ''running in'' fine metal dust from them. The first oil change easpecially would be important.