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Protecting natural fibre rope fenders


David Mack

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4 hours ago, blackrose said:

Most rope fenders aren't made from natural hemp,

 

True, but if you read the thread title this is about fenders that ARE made from natural fibre. Most ‘historic’ boats use natural fibre rope fenders. 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

True, but if you read the thread title this is about fenders that ARE made from natural fibre. Most ‘historic’ boats use natural fibre rope fenders. 

 

 

Because we all know that the old boatmen would never have used polypropylene if it was available... 

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  • 6 months later...
On 07/11/2018 at 12:45, X Alan W said:

The bow fender will last (wear wise) much longer with a piece of tyre fitted over it if you can source an old fabric carcass cross ply one it will be easier to work than a steel carcass radial

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I felt the discussion here was relevent.

 

We have bought a new front button for Python, it is the hairy type of polyprop that at a passing glance looks like well treated hemp. We are keen to get as much life out of our fenders as possible as ultimately any money saved can be put towards restoring a canal ;)

 

The old fender was a 4 point fixing one and the new one has been supplied with 2 chains to fix it. Our crew, who are not familar with historic craft, were scratching their heads over how to fix it. The old button was forever breaking it's weak link (tie-wrap) which kind of indicates something is not quite right. We believe having spoken to boaters who know about these things that having just two fixings as she would have done originally will mean the button will just flex to the side as it needs to and only snap a weak link if it gets hung up.

 

I did a quick google search to try and find a photo of a properly fitted traditional front button to share with the team so they could get it fitted correctly but was struggling so I asked Viviee Barber if she could take one for me as she was at Etruria and I knew there would be a good chance of getting a picture there. Well that opened up a different can of worms :)

 

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We happened to be travelling through Braunston area over the weekend on our own boat and it gave me a chance to look at the multitude of histroic boats that frequent that area. A lot of them have the inverted tyre over the front button and so now I am wondering if we can make one up for both the old fender (it might extend it's life a bit) and for the new one to make it last longer.

Viviee has since shared a photo of Whitby's new button

 

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which is really helpful in understanding how the tyre fastens around the button.

 

My next mission is to try and find a tyre that is not a steel braced radial!

 

Does anyone have any tips or hints about where to look for a tyre or how to go about cutting it to help our volunteers to get it right for Python?

 

Many thanks to Viviee for supplying the images to help us. get it right. Python will be back in to Paul Barbers for hull survey/blacking next year and if the traditional front button works as I hope it will then we will get Paul to grinfd off the additional lower button fixings which we believe were incorrectly added since Chesterfield Canal Trust have owned the boat.

 

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Oh Ray - I know! I have been told that Python was not, for many of it's earlier years, not the best looked after boat. I think it only became so when she was shortened and the team on The Regents Canal got to look after her.

 

The thing is that we have to get a fine balance between looking after a boat that works and picks up the scrapes and knocks that are associated with working and having the rivet counters point a finger and suggest that our volunteers are not looking after the boat properly. What I am really thrilled with is that our team really want to learn and do the best for the boat. Being geographically quite a distance from other historic boats gives little opportunity for them to look at a range of old boats and learn, ask questions etc. I think there will be a few new faces attending Braunston and Alvecote this year though which is wonderful

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I cut through the steel wall with a cutting disc on an angle grinder then used a jigsaw to cut off the steel bead. With that gone, it’s easy to cut the tyre to fit the fender. When pulling the rope strings to tighten up the tyre, it’s a good idea to lead them through the fender covering as well, in a couple of places. This helps to stop the tyre from slipping around when in use.

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Looking through Ray's excellent selection of photos hardly any bow fenders seem to be of the 'button with a tyre over' type favoured nowadays. Most appear to be a coil of heavy rope tied in shape with thinner ropes. 

 

I quite like these. Presumably they are DIY fenders made up by the boaters themselves. Might have a go at making one myself.

 

 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
spellin
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4 minutes ago, dave moore said:

I cut through the steel wall with a cutting disc on an angle grinder then used a jigsaw to cut off the steel bead. With that gone, it’s easy to cut the tyre to fit the fender. When pulling the rope strings to tighten up the tyre, it’s a good idea to lead them through the fender covering as well, in a couple of places. This helps to stop the tyre from slipping around when in use.

Thanks Dave

 

That is really helpful

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2 hours ago, cheshire~rose said:

(snip)

 

The old fender was a 4 point fixing one and the new one has been supplied with 2 chains to fix it. Our crew, who are not familar with historic craft, were scratching their heads over how to fix it. The old button was forever breaking it's weak link (tie-wrap) which kind of indicates something is not quite right. We believe having spoken to boaters who know about these things that having just two fixings as she would have done originally will mean the button will just flex to the side as it needs to and only snap a weak link if it gets hung up.

 

(snip)

 

My next mission is to try and find a tyre that is not a steel braced radial!

 

Does anyone have any tips or hints about where to look for a tyre or how to go about cutting it to help our volunteers to get it right for Python?

(snip)

 

We had that problem with Copperkins, due to the angle of the bow and the position of the hanging brackets, whch were fairly far back on the bow.  After the fender had been compressed, it would drop lower on the bow before it relaxed fully and the expansion of the fender locked it in a new, lower, position. Over time, the weak link and the rest of the chain would stretch slightly, allowing the whole process to be repeated. The weak link would bend straight after just a few locks ... Cure was a bit of rope over the top of the bow and hanging vertically to the fender chain where it entered the fender. On Kelpie, we don't have that problem and the lower chains do nothing, apart from preventing the fender going sideways.

 

Go kart tyres are not steel reinforced, and can be had for the taking at most places where karting takes place. They are quite a handy size for fender protection, and can be cut with a knife.

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On 07/11/2018 at 12:38, Tumshie said:

Sorry to keep asking, but how long do you think untreated fenders would last compared to treated ones - and what would the disadvantage (if any) be to not treating them. ?

My untreated rope fenders are 15 years old this month (as is the boat.) Never been treated, and I had a naturally occurring bonsai on the rear one which has sadly gone. There is still some like in them.
I have a piece of tyre over the bow fender which has stopped it from wearing. 

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