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Protecting natural fibre rope fenders


David Mack

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The traditional approach is to soak them in cresosote, but creosote can no longer be sold legally to the public. The various creosote replacement products on the market seem to be more concerned with the cosmetic finish than preventing rot and mould (which is probably fine for sheds and fences made of treated timber).

 

So what is recommended for rope fenders? Cuprinol or similar wood preservative? Old engine oil?

 

And can anybody attest to the success or otherwise of any of these treatments?

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Over the years, I’ve used clear wood preserver such as Cuprinol or cheaper own brands from DIY sheds. That was fine for a long time, until wear and tear left them looking tired. Wanting to use something darker to blend the fibres in, I switched to Creocote, a creosote substitute available easily from Toolstation. Gives a similar colour to the real thing! I’ve always removed them and hung before and after treatment, allowing penetration and drip time. Hope this helps.

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9 minutes ago, Tumshie said:

Would that not contaminate the canal?

 

With any of these treatments,  the plan is to soak the fenders in a plastic dustbin first to achive good penetration into the rope, then hang them up to drip/dry completely before attaching to the boat.

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13 minutes ago, David Mack said:

 

With any of these treatments,  the plan is to soak the fenders in a plastic dustbin first to achive good penetration into the rope, then hang them up to drip/dry completely before attaching to the boat.

I wasn't sure how well the engine oil would dry - the others that you mentioned are designed to dry so I could understand them not leaching into the water but the engine oil confused me a bit. Thanks for explaining. I've never seen [the process of] rope fenders treated before. ?

Edited by Tumshie
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Rightly or wrongly I see fenders as a consumable, i.e. you fit them, they get used, they wear out (or get stolen) and they get replaced. Personally I can think of few more unpleasant things than lifting oily / creosote fenders when required so your hands get covered in muck that then gets dabbed all over the cabin and tiller. No, dry and clean fenders for me every time :captain:

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Just now, pete harrison said:

No, dry and clean fenders for me every time :captain:

Sorry to keep asking, but how long do you think untreated fenders would last compared to treated ones - and what would the disadvantage (if any) be to not treating them. ?

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What is bieng requested is advice on a preservative. I suggest anyting that will preserve the fibres probably should not be in the canal?

 

I resorted to a dilute mixture of hull blacking and white spirit. Let it soak in an allow to dry. My thinking was that this is no worse in terms of poluting the watercaourse than the balcked hull of the boat.

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12 minutes ago, Tumshie said:

Sorry to keep asking, but how long do you think untreated fenders would last compared to treated ones - and what would the disadvantage (if any) be to not treating them. ?

I would still expect untreated fenders to last a few years but it depends on their use.

 

I boat on full length narrow boats (nominally 71'6'') and it is a common occurence to lift the stern fender to clear lock gates. As stated above I prefer to deal with fairly clean fenders, and I accept I will need to replace them periodically. 

 

I suppose owners of boats of a shorter length might only ever touch their fenders when painting of the hull is required, so making them unpleasant to handle is not such an issue :captain:

Edited by pete harrison
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2 minutes ago, pete harrison said:

I would still expect untreated fenders to last a few years but it depends on their use.

 

I boat on full length narrow boats (nominally 71'6'') and it is a common occurence to lift the stern fender to clear lock gates. As stated above I prefer to deal with fairly clean fenders, and I accept I will need to replace them periodically. 

 

I suppose boats of a shorter length might only ever touch their fenders when painting of the hull is required, so making them unpleasant to handle is not such an issue :captain:

Thank you.

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1 hour ago, David Mack said:

The traditional approach is to soak them in cresosote, but creosote can no longer be sold legally to the public. The various creosote replacement products on the market seem to be more concerned with the cosmetic finish than preventing rot and mould (which is probably fine for sheds and fences made of treated timber).

 

So what is recommended for rope fenders? Cuprinol or similar wood preservative? Old engine oil?

 

And can anybody attest to the success or otherwise of any of these treatments?

Most farm shops sell proper creosote 

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3 hours ago, dave moore said:

Over the years, I’ve used clear wood preserver such as Cuprinol or cheaper own brands from DIY sheds. That was fine for a long time, until wear and tear left them looking tired. Wanting to use something darker to blend the fibres in, I switched to Creocote, a creosote substitute available easily from Toolstation. Gives a similar colour to the real thing! I’ve always removed them and hung before and after treatment, allowing penetration and drip time. Hope this helps.

I mix Creocote with used engine oil, about 70% Creocote and 30% oil with success. As Dave says I leave them to drip for a couple of weeks.

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41 minutes ago, Ray T said:

I mix Creocote with used engine oil, about 70% Creocote and 30% oil with success. As Dave says I leave them to drip for a couple of weeks.

From experience it is the drying before and after treatment that adds to the success of whatever substance is used.

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3 hours ago, tree monkey said:

Most farm shops sell proper creosote 

 

Not in my experience, when I tried to buy some last summer for this exact purpose.

 

Even though after several wasted trips to farm shops I called a couple called them in advance to check if they have the real thing, and was told yes, when I got there what they actually had was creosote substitute not the Real Thing.

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18 minutes ago, pete harrison said:

I am interested to know how the container full of oily creosote is disposed of once the fenders have been soaked, the suggestion being a plastic dustbin full. Seems a lot of hassle to me for a couple of hundred quids worth of fenders that should last for quite a while untreated :captain:

I don't dispose of it. I keep it in the garden shed at the bottom of the garden. I usually soak the fenders when the boat is winterised. Our local refuse disposal centre has a waste oil recycling facility for when I dispose of any surplus oil after an engine service.

 

 

Edited by Ray T
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23 minutes ago, pete harrison said:

I am interested to know how the container full of oily creosote is disposed of once the fenders have been soaked, the suggestion being a plastic dustbin full. Seems a lot of hassle to me for a couple of hundred quids worth of fenders that should last for quite a while untreated :captain:

It's good that stuff, I used to keep a bucket full in the shed with stakes soaking in it and use it to treat fence panels,  disposal of it was never a problem 

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6 hours ago, David Mack said:

So what is recommended for rope fenders? Cuprinol or similar wood preservative? Old engine oil?

 

And can anybody attest to the success or otherwise of any of these treatments?

I would suggest trying  Patio Magic  to kill/ prevent mold.

I have used it on boat canvas and side decks and mooring warps and in window channels were it has  very effectively killed off and prevented green algae .

It should be fine on a  fender .

Apply it by spraying on using a garden sprayer after diluting with water on a dry day so it can dry off naturally before any rain . It takes time for the results to become apparent but the  affects are long lasting.

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Most rope fenders aren't made from natural hemp, they're polypropylene and creosote or other chemical treatments will only degrade the polymer.

 

How many of you are actually using natural rope fenders?

 

The other thing to think about is whether we should really be putting biocides, oil or chemical treatments into our waterways?

Edited by blackrose
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19 hours ago, David Mack said:

The traditional approach is to soak them in cresosote, but creosote can no longer be sold legally to the public. The various creosote replacement products on the market seem to be more concerned with the cosmetic finish than preventing rot and mould (which is probably fine for sheds and fences made of treated timber).

 

So what is recommended for rope fenders? Cuprinol or similar wood preservative? Old engine oil?

 

And can anybody attest to the success or otherwise of any of these treatments?

No problem buying creosote on the good ole interweb except you have to buy 20L (app £40) at a time but soaking a new proper fender (using a cheap B&Q storage box £5) will take app 3 litres - FYI there is a farm shop in Penkridge that will sell to you but I bought from creosotesales.co.uk. based in Loughborough☺️

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20 hours ago, David Mack said:

 

 

And can anybody attest to the success or otherwise of any of these treatments?

I have a rear set ( tipcat+2 buttons) of Derek Pearson made sisal fenders which were purchased in 1991 or thereabouts and have been fitted ever since.  They were creosoted from new and have been re-creosoted periodically since then (I try for annual but don't always manage it).     Creosote brushed on in a drip tray rather than soaked and the set need about 2 litres for an annual treat.  The outer fibres where sun affected are getting slightly brittle  but are still serviceable.

I had a front button but that only lasted 5 years until mechanical damage killed it.

 

They are not unpleasant to handle,  once the creosote surface has dried, though a glove is needed beforehand.  I tend to grab them by the chains!

 

The creosote in the tipcat tends to burn the paint underneath it but some 1000g builders black plastic between the fender and the boat has cured that.

 

N

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