Building a new stove surround

[MichaelG]

Hi all, just looking for some advice on building a stove surround. My boat already had a multifuel stove fitted in the forward corner by the bow doors. It was the original one from when the boat was made 12 years ago. The stove was pretty knackered so I've had a new one fitted. Problem is once the old one was out it was obvious that a lot of the tiles were loose and needed very little pursuasion to come away. Anyway ten minutes of fiddling later I had a nice pile of tiles on the saloon floor. It turns out there was no heat board behind the tiles, they were fixed directly onto the plywood lining. No wonder the hanging locker behind used to get nice and toasty. 

So I am looking at building a new surround, luckily there is enough space behind and to the side of the new stove to work around it.

I've read up on it and the plan is to fix 1cm battens to the ply lining behind and to the side of the stove to create a 1cm air gap.

Fix 25mm vermiculite boards to the battens. Midland Chandlers sell them for about £45 a pop and I'll need two.

PVA the vermiculate board to seal it.

Tile directly onto the board using heat resistant tile adhesive.

Grout with heat resistant grout.

From what I've read I think that is the right way to go, or have I missed anything obvious or misunderstood the guidance?

Any advice much appreciated.

 

Michael. 

[LadyG]

I believe most of the info you have is from this

http://www.soliftec.com/boat stoves 1-page.pdf

 

Others will be along soon to add their comments.

Is there a manufacturer's manual for your stove, this may be definitive for your stove for the Boat Safety Scheme Certificate.

and this may help...... approx 1 min 50 in.

 

 

Edited October 31, 2018 by LadyG

[cereal tiller]

22 minutes ago, MichaelG said:

Hi all, just looking for some advice on building a stove surround. My boat already had a multifuel stove fitted in the forward corner by the bow doors. It was the original one from when the boat was made 12 years ago. The stove was pretty knackered so I've had a new one fitted. Problem is once the old one was out it was obvious that a lot of the tiles were loose and needed very little pursuasion to come away. Anyway ten minutes of fiddling later I had a nice pile of tiles on the saloon floor. It turns out there was no heat board behind the tiles, they were fixed directly onto the plywood lining. No wonder the hanging locker behind used to get nice and toasty. 

So I am looking at building a new surround, luckily there is enough space behind and to the side of the new stove to work around it.

I've read up on it and the plan is to fix 1cm battens to the ply lining behind and to the side of the stove to create a 1cm air gap.

Fix 25mm vermiculite boards to the battens. Midland Chandlers sell them for about £45 a pop and I'll need two.

PVA the vermiculate board to seal it.

Tile directly onto the board using heat resistant tile adhesive.

Grout with heat resistant grout.

From what I've read I think that is the right way to go, or have I missed anything obvious or misunderstood the guidance?

Any advice much appreciated.

 

Michael. 

Have always used perforated Metal Screens between Stove and surrounding Timber , the Hotter it Gets the quicker the Screens disperse the heat ,the Majority of it rises rapidly and surrounding Panels are just warm to the touch.

it also saved me the cost of a Squeekofan and I may use Bifurcated Metal next time.

 

[MichaelG]

Hi, thanks for the PDF, I hadnt seen that. Interesting that it says fitting a fireproof board direct to a wall is no good as heat will pass through it. I was under the impression that vermiculite boards resisted heat conduction upto some huge temperature.

[LadyG]

10 minutes ago, MichaelG said:

Hi, thanks for the PDF, I hadnt seen that. Interesting that it says fitting a fireproof board direct to a wall is no good as heat will pass through it. I was under the impression that vermiculite boards resisted heat conduction upto some huge temperature.

 That's why you have to be very careful when installing new stoves, never assume anything when it comes to regulations. Refer to your manufacturers manual, where it refers to boat installs.

Edited October 31, 2018 by LadyG

[Keeping Up]

I recently had the fireproofing of my stove improved by Braunston Marina. Originally from 1991 most of the tiles were simply glued directly to the plywood, although it turned out that just one side had been fitted with very thin fireboard.

 

They used what they said was a very new type of fireproof board (emphasis on FIREPROOF as opposed to FIRE RESISTANT) which, unlike the usual vermiculite board that is simply fire-resistant or fire-retardant, needs no air gap. It's about 35mm thick, but I don't have any details about it. My stove had to be moved by a couple of inches to get it all to fit, but luckily this was possible by just removing and re-sealing the flue.

[Johny London]

Don't forget to think about the hearth while you are at it! Is it tiled straight to the floor or onto raised wood? It wasn't very difficult to cut the floor out, then build up with breeze block or brick, and tile onto that - how I did mine anyway.