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Prv letting by.


fudd

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Not really. I agree with Wotever re it being an accumulator but to be 100% sure I would have liked to see where the pipes connect to the calorifier. This confirms Wotever is correct.

 

However I still can not see the valve through which to introduce the air into the accumulator. The ring of nut heads around the chrome bit makes me wonder if its a bladdrles design but if so it would not give a pressure. When you find the     air valve and blow it up use a car tyre pressure gauge to measure the air pressure, not the pressure gauge on the assembly. If it turns out to be bladderles  the it will need draining down every few years and mounting the other way up - inlet at the bottom.

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2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Not really. I agree with Wotever re it being an accumulator but to be 100% sure I would have liked to see where the pipes connect to the calorifier. This confirms Wotever is correct.

 

However I still can not see the valve through which to introduce the air into the accumulator. The ring of nut heads around the chrome bit makes me wonder if its a bladdrles design but if so it would not give a pressure. When you find the     air valve and blow it up use a car tyre pressure gauge to measure the air pressure, not the pressure gauge on the assembly. If it turns out to be bladderles  the it will need draining down every few years and mounting the other way up - inlet at the bottom.

There is a schrader valve at the back of the vessel. I’ll take a phot of the connections at the calorifier end when I get a chance. Funny thing is, it worked fine for over a week with no problems. 

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11 hours ago, fudd said:

There is a schrader valve at the back of the vessel. I’ll take a phot of the connections at the calorifier end when I get a chance. Funny thing is, it worked fine for over a week with no problems. 

No need to take any more photos, especially as you have located the valve for altering the air pressure.

 

The thing is that every narrowboat is a one off and the older it gets the more one off it becomes. Your pressure vessel is definitely in the position for an accumulator but if there is no non-return valve on the calorifier cold water inlet then the valves in the pump will be also be the system's non return valve. This would the make the pressure vessel act as both an accumulator and expansion vessel. In that situation there might be    an advantage to forgo a degree of accumulator volume by pressurising it to more than half pump cut out pressure thereby increasing the volume available fro expansion. This all depends on the relative volumes of the vessel and calorifier.  This is why I prefer to be absolutely sure how things are set up rather than about 90% sure. Don't act on this, its a "suck it and see" situation and an explanation for why I would have preferred to see everything but I know it can be difficult to know what needs to be seen.

 

 

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On 22/10/2018 at 19:56, fudd said:

There is a schrader valve at the back of the vessel. I’ll take a phot of the connections at the calorifier end when I get a chance. Funny thing is, it worked fine for over a week with no problems. 

The company have offered me a full refund as there is a fault with the pump itself. 

What would you helpful people recommend?

my other half likes a bath now again so she doesn’t want to wait too long to fill it up and I like a powerful shower. 

Thanks again for your help. 

Regards Steve P. 

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3 minutes ago, fudd said:

The company have offered me a full refund as there is a fault with the pump itself. 

What would you helpful people recommend?

my other half likes a bath now again so she doesn’t want to wait too long to fill it up and I like a powerful shower. 

Thanks again for your help. 

Regards Steve P. 

You could get two pumps... 

 

a. for redundancy.

b. for extra omph when needed.

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For a powerful shower I wait for a heavy thunder storm and go outside in my underpants with a bar of soap.  Whichever pump you get, read the pressure on it or in the instructions. 30psi or thereabouts cut out pressure. You can make the shower more powerful by fitting a rose with smaller holes in it.

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12 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

0mph is far too slow. A much higher flow rate is required for a good shower:)

Flow can be limited  by resistance in the pipes / shower or limited capacity of the pump. Needs a bit more thought before choosing a new pump.

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A lovely hot bath can be had by rigging up a tin bath on the bank supported upon bricks with a bonfire lit beneath it. Likewise a decent shower can be had by suspending from a convenient tree a 5 gallon drum with holes punched in the bottom and filled with hot water.

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2 hours ago, fudd said:

The company have offered me a full refund as there is a fault with the pump itself. 

What would you helpful people recommend?

my other half likes a bath now again so she doesn’t want to wait too long to fill it up and I like a powerful shower. 

Thanks again for your help. 

Regards Steve P. 

 

First find out why the shower performance is not good enough for you.

 

Do you have an economy shower head fitted, is the strainer that might be in a joint for the flexible hose or in the connections to the shower valve clear, is there a restriction "washer" in a shower hose connection. How long is the pipe run from pump to shower, both hot and cold and what size are they. (For instance my boat has what must be about 80 ft from pump and back to the shower run in an  early type of plastic plumbing with a 3/8" bore. Of course the flow from the shower is not good).

 

Next remember how the old pump cycled when showering. If it did not cycle and just kept running then a higher capacity (litres per minute) pump would improve the pressure. If it did cycle then something is restricting the flow form the shower head (see above), but remember most pumps cycle when in use.

 

You can't fit a pump with a cut out pressure greater then the calorifier PRV and a few PSI less is safer so if the old pump cycled you are stuck. Think about rpiping with larger bore pipes and fitting a high flow shower head but then it may not be "tingley" enough for you.

 

I suspect this may be a case of expecting a boat shower to act like a power shower at home and if so all I can think of is fitting a high pressure pump between the shower mixer and shower head. It can't affect the PRV or increase the system pressure in that position but it may prevent anyone getting water from a tap when its in use.

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31 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

..............

 

I suspect this may be a case of expecting a boat shower to act like a power shower at home and if so all I can think of is fitting a high pressure pump between the shower mixer and shower head. It can't affect the PRV or increase the system pressure in that position but it may prevent anyone getting water from a tap when its in use.

If you put a ‘fast’ pump between the mixer and head then if the pump ‘sucks’ faster than the other pump can supply then if someone turns on a tap or flushes a toilet you will suck air into the cold pipe which will mean a lack of cold water and a very hot shower.  Additionally if all other taps are closed to avoid burns in the shower you might end up with negative pressure in your calorifier and that is not good.

Edited by Chewbacka
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2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

First find out why the shower performance is not good enough for you.

 

Do you have an economy shower head fitted, is the strainer that might be in a joint for the flexible hose or in the connections to the shower valve clear, is there a restriction "washer" in a shower hose connection. How long is the pipe run from pump to shower, both hot and cold and what size are they. (For instance my boat has what must be about 80 ft from pump and back to the shower run in an  early type of plastic plumbing with a 3/8" bore. Of course the flow from the shower is not good).

 

Next remember how the old pump cycled when showering. If it did not cycle and just kept running then a higher capacity (litres per minute) pump would improve the pressure. If it did cycle then something is restricting the flow form the shower head (see above), but remember most pumps cycle when in use.

 

You can't fit a pump with a cut out pressure greater then the calorifier PRV and a few PSI less is safer so if the old pump cycled you are stuck. Think about rpiping with larger bore pipes and fitting a high flow shower head but then it may not be "tingley" enough for you.

 

I suspect this may be a case of expecting a boat shower to act like a power shower at home and if so all I can think of is fitting a high pressure pump between the shower mixer and shower head. It can't affect the PRV or increase the system pressure in that position but it may prevent anyone getting water from a tap when its in use.

I took my Jabsco sensor max 5.0 off of my boat and plumbed it in as a stop-gap and it worked perfectly. That’s why I thought I’d try a more powerful pump on this boat. It’s my other half’s by the way. So I know there’s nothing furred up or restricting it. Trouble is they are expensive and I don’t think they are made anymore. 

Thanks anyway. 

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