Jump to content

Vetus WP1213 water pump


Kendorr

Featured Posts

I've been installing the above pump, unfortunately it has a working pressure of 3.1 bar, my calorifier has a pressure relief valve rated at 3 bar, consequently this consistently goes off and tries to fill the engine bay with water.

Question, can I reduce the pressure at the pump?

I can find no information, although I'm told it can be done.

Thanks folks

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bypass the built in pressure switch on the pump and use a seperate pressure switch like the Square D (adjustable) pressure switch. Its a bit of a faff to install it but once done its done and you avoid future problems with water pump dodgy pressure switches..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, PaulJ said:

Bypass the built in pressure switch on the pump and use a seperate pressure switch like the Square D (adjustable) pressure switch. Its a bit of a faff to install it but once done its done and you avoid future problems with water pump dodgy pressure switches..

Amen to that, by far the most reliable option plus the cut in and cut out pressures can be individually adjusted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Thanks rusty, I've actually got one and am ready to fit it, but for .1 bar, I'm wondering if there's something I can do without adding another gizmo into the circuit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remember it will have to remain 100% leak through free for life. Even if it weeps a little the pressure on the tap side will rise when no water is being drawn. I am far from convinced this will do the job long term, unlike an decent adjustable remote pressure switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Kendorr said:

I've been installing the above pump, unfortunately it has a working pressure of 3.1 bar, my calorifier has a pressure relief valve rated at 3 bar, consequently this consistently goes off and tries to fill the engine bay with water.

Question, can I reduce the pressure at the pump?

I can find no information, although I'm told it can be done.

Thanks folks

Kevin

Can you not just return it and buy the correct one ?

 

Or, change the calorifier PRV to one more suitable ?

 

Sorry - but I always try the simplest fixes first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks folks, I've fitted the pressure reduction valve which is set to 3 bar and it's working perfectly. Just ran the engine for 20 minutes and I now have hot water for the first time. Once I wire in the immersion heater, I should be set for the winter ?

 

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Kendorr said:

I'm wondering if there's something I can do without adding another gizmo into the circuit.

Hmmm...

49 minutes ago, Kendorr said:

I've fitted the pressure reduction valve...

So you've added another gizmo anyway. You’d be better off replacing that valve with a remote pressure switch as advised above. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said:

If you are supplying water pressure at 3 bar and your RV is 3 bar you are sailing very close to the wind, I would drop it down to 2 bar if its adjustable.

It is adjustable, and I will drop the pressure a bit, thanks.

 

20 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Hmmm...

So you've added another gizmo anyway. You’d be better off replacing that valve with a remote pressure switch as advised above. 

Using what I've got and my somewhat limited knowledge, I've got it working. I will look into the pressure switch and see if I can figure it all out.

Thanks to everyone for the advice ?

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Kendorr said:

Using what I've got and my somewhat limited knowledge, I've got it working. I will look into the pressure switch and see if I can figure it all out.

Thanks to everyone for the advice ?

Kevin

 

1. remove pressure reducing valve.

 

2. Replace with a  compression T with the 90 degree branch a BSP thread plus adaptors if required to fit the pressure switch into the BSP thread. (A decent plumbers' merchant will advise).

 

3. Locate live feed going into the pump WIRING at what is probably a chock. block connector or something similar.

 

4. Connect that live wire to one terminal of the pressure switch (there will probably be four terminals, two pairs of two. Its a double pole switch so you use just one pole and save the other as a spare).

 

5.a (Simple way) Take wire from the pump side of the chock.block (or whatever) to the other terminal of the pressure switch of the  pair and adjust pressure switch to below the pump switch's cut out pressure.  This still leaves the pump subject to failure of the inbuilt switch but as the switch will no longer be working the failure chance is reduced.

 

5b (better way) locate the positive wire running from the inbuilt pressure switch into the cylindrical pump motor body. Cut this at the pressure switch end and connect it to the remote pressure switch terminal. Probably need to extend the cable and don't do it until the pump guarantee has expired.

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

1. remove pressure reducing valve.

 

2. Replace with a  compression T with the 90 degree branch a BSP thread plus adaptors if required to fit the pressure switch into the BSP thread. (A decent plumbers' merchant will advise).

 

3. Locate live feed going into the pump WIRING at what is probably a chock. block connector or something similar.

 

4. Connect that live wire to one terminal of the pressure switch (there will probably be four terminals, two pairs of two. Its a double pole switch so you use just one pole and save the other as a spare).

 

5.a (Simple way) Take wire from the pump side of the chock.block (or whatever) to the other terminal of the pressure switch of the  pair and adjust pressure switch to below the pump switch's cut out pressure.  This still leaves the pump subject to failure of the inbuilt switch but as the switch will no longer be working the failure chance is reduced.

 

5b (better way) locate the positive wire running from the inbuilt pressure switch into the cylindrical pump motor body. Cut this at the pressure switch end and connect it to the remote pressure switch terminal. Probably need to extend the cable and don't do it until the pump guarantee has expired.

So, something like this?

https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/whale-inline-pressure-switch

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Kendorr said:

No, only if you really can't get a D Square switch. I doubt that one is justiciable for cut in pressure and I fear it uses a micro-switch similar to those built into the pump. Also try Googling for "Square D Pressure switch!. It will probably turn out to be a far eastern clone  but should still be more robust then the thing in the pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/10/2018 at 17:56, Alan de Enfield said:

Can you not just return it and buy the correct one ?

 

Or, change the calorifier PRV to one more suitable ?

 

Sorry - but I always try the simplest fixes first.

 

Yes, why did you buy that particular pump in the first place when there are more suitable makes/models on the market?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Yes, why did you buy that particular pump in the first place when there are more suitable makes/models on the market?

I bought it from Newark boat jumble last year. I knew the boat build was about to start and I was doing my best with my limited knowledge to spread the cost over a longish period. It's only when I've fitted it that I realised that the pump and the calorifier are not totally compatible. It could well be that the best way to go will be to discard the pump and buy a less powerful one. With hindsight, I could have left buying the pump 'till after the calorifier, alternatively, I could have made sure that the calorifier could take the 3.1 bar given out by this pump. As this is the first boat I've fitted out from scratch, I'm making mistakes, learning lots and enjoying the challenge, but if I start from scratch again, I'll make sure to buy a more suitable make and / or model, depending on what there is on the market at that time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have a look here Kendorr- 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142796026107

 

The pump on my own boat is higher pressure than I want but this doesnt matter as I use the same switch as above-the flow rate is the more important bit (well it is if you want a proper shower)

Edited by PaulJ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, PaulJ said:

Have a look here Kendorr- 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142796026107

 

The pump on my own boat is higher pressure than I want but this doesnt matter as I use the same switch as above-the flow rate is the more important bit (well it is if you want a proper shower)

Thanks Paul, and everyone else who has responded with advice, all very useful ?

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.