Pause Before Water Comes Out Of Tap

[LiveAndLetLive]

We've been living aboard for a few months and up until recently the taps have been working really well.

For the last couple of weeks there has been a pause before the water pump kicks in after turning the tap on.

When the tap is turned water comes out until the water pressure goes down. It then is taking 4 or 5 seconds for the pump to start.

Would anybody have any suggestions about what is happening please?

I'm a bit concerned it means there is a leak?

Thanks

[WotEver]

Sounds like a sticky pressure switch to me. 

[Alan de Enfield]

I'd suggest that is quite normal (it happens on all of the boats I've had)

The water is sat in the pipes under pressure, open the tap and some water has to come out (for a few seconds) before the pressure drops enough for the pump to kick in. When you turn the tap off the pump will probably still run for a few seconds to build up the pressure to the pump 'cut-off' pressure.

 

I guess it depends how long 'a few seconds' is.

Edited October 6, 2018 by Alan de Enfield

[LiveAndLetLive]

OK, that sounds promising. Is it easy to fix?

Hi Alan, thanks for the reply. I understand that it takes a little while for the pump to kick in. The symptom we've noticed though is that the length of time between turning the tap on and the pump starting is getting longer and longer recently.

[Timx]

Have a look at your water pump, and buy a new one, it's best to have a spare, I believe they only last a couple of years. But I'm no expert.

[Timx]

If you locate the pump, if it's like mine, a Jabasco ,there's a little screw at the back of the pump, behind a screw off back plate, that adjusts the pressure. That worked for me when I had pressure problems, but not for long before it gave up.

Edited October 7, 2018 by Timx

[nbfiresprite]

Jabasco

22 minutes ago, Timx said:

Have a look at your water pump, and buy a new one, it's best to have a spare, I believe they only last a couple of years. But I'm no expert.

Then I have a rare pair of Jabasco Par-Max 4 pumps which are now in their 18th year of service, Only thing that has been replaced in that time is the built in pressure switches (A weak point in the pump design) which have been by-passed and replaced with in-line heavy duty pressure switches.

Edited October 7, 2018 by nbfiresprite

[rusty69]

They usually have a small microswitch internally. Available for a couple of quid. A better long term solution is the external square d offerings, but they require some plumbing work. 

 

Also worth checking your accumulator is correctly pressurised

 

Eta. Also worth checking you have good clean electrical connections to the pump and a good voltage. 

Edited October 7, 2018 by rusty69

[LiveAndLetLive]

Thanks for the replies. I'll have a look under my bow today. I like the idea of replacing and keeping the old pump as a spare.

[Alan de Enfield]

6 hours ago, nbfiresprite said:

Jabasco

Then I have a rare pair of Jabasco Par-Max 4 pumps which are now in their 18th year of service, Only thing that has been replaced in that time is the built in pressure switches (A weak point in the pump design) which have been by-passed and replaced with in-line heavy duty pressure switches.

 

2 hours ago, rusty69 said:

They usually have a small microswitch internally. Available for a couple of quid. A better long term solution is the external square d offerings, but they require some plumbing work. 

 

Also worth checking your accumulator is correctly pressurised

 

Eta. Also worth checking you have good clean electrical connections to the pump and a good voltage. 

I too have a pair of Jabsco Par-Max 4 pumps which are original to the boat (2003)

I did have to replace one micro-switch a couple of years ago on the deck-wash pump but (as Rusty says) they are something like 5 for £2 on ebay.

[MtB]

10 hours ago, LiveAndLetLive said:

OK, that sounds promising. Is it easy to fix?

Hi Alan, thanks for the reply. I understand that it takes a little while for the pump to kick in. The symptom we've noticed though is that the length of time between turning the tap on and the pump starting is getting longer and longer recently.

 

I don't think we are getting to the bottom of the problem yet. 

 

WHY does it matter to you that it takes a while for the pump to kick in, given you say water still comes out of the taps? This sounds to me like normal pump operation to me.

 

Is perhaps the water flow from the taps slowing right down to a trickle before the pump starts?

 

 

Edited October 7, 2018 by Mike the Boilerman

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

I don't think we are getting to the bottom of the problem yet. 

 

WHY does it matter to you that it takes a while for the pump to kick in, given you say water still comes out of the taps? This sounds to me like normal pump operation unless the water flow from the taps is say, slowing to a trickle before the pump starts.

 

 

I'm not sure it is "normal" if the time is getting longer and longer.

 

We experience the same problem on a shurflo on our sailing boat. Often have to wait 5-10 seconds. I'm reluctant to change the switch, as I don't want to cause another problem, so live with it.

[LiveAndLetLive]

Hi Mike, the water runs out for a couple of second. Then the water stops running completely for about 5 seconds. Then the pump kicks in and water starts again. The pause with no water is getting longer and there wasn't really a pause until fairly recently.

[LiveAndLetLive]

3 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I'm reluctant to change the switch, as I don't want to cause another problem, so live with it.

This could well be what we end up doing for now but its good to know what it probably is. Thanks

[Alan de Enfield]

4 minutes ago, LiveAndLetLive said:

Hi Mike, the water runs out for a couple of second. Then the water stops running completely for about 5 seconds. Then the pump kicks in and water starts again. The pause with no water is getting longer and there wasn't really a pause until fairly recently.

That doesn't sound 'normal'.

I get a spurt, then the pressure drops and we get a 'slow-flow' then the pump kicks in and we get 'full pressure' again.

Having the water completely stop isn't good.

 

Maybe the pump is getting a bit 'slow' in sensing the pressure drop.

[MtB]

Just now, LiveAndLetLive said:

Hi Mike, the water runs out for a couple of second. Then the water stops running completely for about 5 seconds. Then the pump kicks in and water starts again. The pause with no water is getting longer and there wasn't really a pause until fairly recently.

 

Ah I see. So the real problem is the water slows and completely stops coming from the taps then! None of the pumps on any of my boats starts the instant I turn a tap on, there is always a pause while the accumulator discharges some water first. Once the pressure falls to about one bar (yes I have a gauge on one of them!) the pump starts, and usually continues a few seconds after turning the tap OFF again. It sounded as though this was what you were describing. 

 

I'd agree with the others then, a sticking pressure switch. These switches are a weak point on water pumps. In fact water pumps in general are terribly prone to failure so just buy a new one, I suggest. 

[Iain_S]

The OP's symptoms are usually caused by the hole between the pump and the diaphragm of the pressure switch becoming blocked. If the pressure switch is removed, the hole can be cleared out and can be enlarged to 3 mm or so with no ill effects, and will be a lot less likely to block in the future.

[rusty69]

3 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I get a spurt, then the pressure drops and we get a 'slow-flow' then the pump kicks in and we get 'full pressure' again

It's your age you know!

[LiveAndLetLive]

I've just had a look at the water pump and it isn't looking good. There's a small leak coming from the end. So I will definitely be replacing it.

 

 

I'm new to this but I guess it is just a case of buying the exact replacement?

[rusty69]

19 minutes ago, LiveAndLetLive said:

I've just had a look at the water pump and it isn't looking good. There's a small leak coming from the end. So I will definitely be replacing it.

 

 

I'm new to this but I guess it is just a case of buying the exact replacement?

Yep, I favour the parmax 2.9, usually available for 75 quid (ish).

 

There are also a couple of "new" ones on ebay for 60 quid or less,I made an offer on one the other day.

Edited October 7, 2018 by rusty69

[LiveAndLetLive]

Good find. Thanks for that. Just bought one.

[BruceinSanity]

It’s an easy swap with the quick change connectors, but make sure the connectors locate and seal properly. Guess how I know this...

 

At least your set up looks easy to check, not hidden under a cupboard or whatever.

[rusty69]

3 hours ago, rusty69 said:

Yep, I favour the parmax 2.9, usually available for 75 quid (ish).

 

There are also a couple of "new" ones on ebay for 60 quid or less,I made an offer on one the other day.

What is that thing top left of photo, with red knob that looks like a PRV?

Edited October 7, 2018 by rusty69

[ditchcrawler]

My pump now sits in a baking tray with a cheapo water alarm in it.

[Tony Brooks]

8 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

What is that thing top left of photo, with red knob?

Its the calorifier PRV, mine is like that so I do not waste water if it ever has to open. On this boat the accumulator/expansion vessel looks a bit small to me for a decent sized calorifier so it may have to open regularly. Locating it there does mean you may get hot water running back up the cold line but in my case the taps are so far away it makes no difference (apart from a rather theoretical risk associated with leigionella) and as calorifiers tend to be a but difficult to easily access it gives easier access to twist the knob if required.