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How often should I grease the stern bearings?


eid

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Just now, Ray T said:

We do ours after a day's cruising is finished. Any grease lost on the journey is then replenished.

I just realised there may be some confusion about which bearings I mean. I'm talking about the ones on the tiller, not the propeller.

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In a cruising boat the top bearing on the rudder stock should be greased before setting off from your home mooring and about weekly when boating and after any period of manoeuvering where water gets pushed up the rudder tube and into the bearing.  I would also do it after a spell of heavy rain or snow.

N

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7 minutes ago, Laurie.Booth said:

How are the rudder bearings greased ?

Nipples

Left hand side between the two mounting holes, screwed into the bearing housing (green cap sits over the top of the nipple but has been removed for the picture)

Rudder Stock Bearing 40mm, 100mm hole centres.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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4 minutes ago, rgreg said:

Not on mine 

Some manufacturers decided to save a 'couple of coppers' and not fit them, as by the time they siezed up the boat would be out of warranty.

or

Maybe yours has a different method of getting grease into the bearings ?

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Most ball race type have grease nipples, some sealed for life ones don't. Some plain bearings have grease nipples but most don't and the best way to grease those is to heat up heavy grease in a pot until fluid then pour it on and it will weedle its way in and remain there as it cools and thickens again.

  • Greenie 1
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12 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Some manufacturers decided to save a 'couple of coppers' and not fit them, as by the time they siezed up the boat would be out of warranty.

or

Maybe yours has a different method of getting grease into the bearings ?

The bottom one is just the simple metal cup type with no means of greasing or containing grease. The top one is the replaceable "acrylic" type that apparently does not require lubrication (and never has in 16 years).

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30 minutes ago, rgreg said:

The bottom one is just the simple metal cup type with no means of greasing or containing grease. The top one is the replaceable "acrylic" type that apparently does not require lubrication (and never has in 16 years).

 

Then you don't have 'bearings' to grease, therefore the answer to the question how often should I grease - in your case - is never.

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2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Some manufacturers decided to save a 'couple of coppers' and not fit them, as by the time they siezed up the boat would be out of warranty.

or

Maybe yours has a different method of getting grease into the bearings ?

I think I do not have them :(

I will have a good look next time I'm on Clarrie.

Thanks for the reply though.

Edited by Laurie.Booth
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Something I discovered than might be relevant here.

 

When I fitted a new top rudder bearing I found that the new bearing case only had a machined grease groove around teh middle so  when the bearing was fitted the rudder stock angle tilted the groove clear of the grease inlet. MY nipple is on the front of the bearing case. I would advise that the bearing be fitted with the nipple on the side so an  angled grease groove will still be inline at that point.

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6 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 Unless you don't do oil changes !!

 

I haven't yet. It is due though ?

 

OK, it's overdue.

 

6 hours ago, BEngo said:

In a cruising boat the top bearing on the rudder stock should be greased before setting off from your home mooring and about weekly when boating and after any period of manoeuvering where water gets pushed up the rudder tube and into the bearing.  I would also do it after a spell of heavy rain or snow.

N

 

I just had my bearings replaced. They fitted a rubber disk under the stern tube to stop the water going up. I'm not sure how effective it is but I thought it was an excellent idea.

 

6 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Nipples

Left hand side between the two mounting holes, screwed into the bearing housing (green cap sits over the top of the nipple but has been removed for the picture)

Rudder Stock Bearing 40mm, 100mm hole centres.

 

That's the one I have!

 

2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Something I discovered than might be relevant here.

 

When I fitted a new top rudder bearing I found that the new bearing case only had a machined grease groove around teh middle so  when the bearing was fitted the rudder stock angle tilted the groove clear of the grease inlet. MY nipple is on the front of the bearing case. I would advise that the bearing be fitted with the nipple on the side so an  angled grease groove will still be inline at that point.

 

They fitted my new one with the nipple at the front ?

 

 

Thanks for the help all; much appreciated (although there doesn't seem to be much agreement on how often it should be done (quelle surprise ?)

Edited by eid
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35 minutes ago, eid said:

although there doesn't seem to be much agreement on how often it should be done (quelle surprise ? )

To be fair to those who commented, first you said stern bearings and once it had been discovered you meant the upper tiller bearing no-one knew what type you had! Quelle Surprise indeed! :icecream:

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10 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

To be fair to those who commented, first you said stern bearings and once it had been discovered you meant the upper tiller bearing no-one knew what type you had! Quelle Surprise indeed! :icecream:

 

Damn I thought you guys knew everything ?

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I can not understand the need for a bearing to centralise the rudder post.

 

I am more familiar with 'historic' narrow boats where just like modern boats the bottom of the rudder post is supported by a cup and skeg arrangement. Just like modern boats the rudder post then passes through the depth of the counter via a tube, with the rudder post and 'Z' shaped Rams Head bolting together a few inches above the deck. The big difference is that on a 'historic' boat the rudder post is supported in a central position (in relation to the rudder tube at deck level) by a flanged collar that that simply drops into the rudder tube and has a hole in its centre that is a little larger diameter than the rudder tube - very simple and very effective.

 

To my untrained eye the only benefit of a bearing at deck level is the prevention of water coming onto the deck via the rudder tube, which happens occasionally when the rudder is hard over combined with highish engine revs. Also to my untrained eye this bearing will always be subjected to standing rainwater and dirt so will always be liable to failure.

 

It appears to me that the old ways are the best, or am I missing something :captain:

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