Jump to content

Anchor stowage photos please


Clodi

Featured Posts

9 hours ago, howardang said:

Most narrow boats have much less space to play with so it might be difficult to get good leads from a bow roller/fairlead to the windlass if this layout is copied. The vast majority of narrow boats, in my opinion, will only contemplate anchoring very, very infrequently and the cost of the windlass and its associated power supply would not be justified.

 

Much better to spend money on a good strong attachment pointseperate fron the T stud, with ideally a means of making a controlled deployment, and something to make the rode fast, with a strong and well designed fairlead ideally incorporating a roller. The fairlead shown in the photo looks lightweight to me and I suspect that it would be easily damaged if the boat actually uses its anchor for real.

 

Howard

 

 

And, unless there is a large steel backing plate beneath the windlass, 1st time the anchor sets it will be ripped out. (It does happen, It happened to me. You learn.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, howardang said:

Most narrow boats have much less space to play with so it might be difficult to get good leads from a bow roller/fairlead to the windlass if this layout is copied. 

Copied? It's a right horlicks!  The anchor fouls the  mooring lines (or vice-versa) and there appears to be nothing to act as a hawser for starters.  It's decorative - yet it doesn't even look good!  It's not there to act as a working anchor - it's there to snag starry-eyed buyers.  Imho, obviously! :D

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5152.jpgI cannot believe the maker of that boat fitted that set-up . Surely if the vessel design is to incorporate full anchor stowage they would at least try to make it work and copy the Dutch Barge style with a proper chain locker and anchor 'tube' with the windlass securely mounted. Overkill for the Canals but if you're trying to tempt river cruisers do it properly.

Edited by Clodi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

 there appears to be nothing to act as a hawser for starters.:D

 

How about all chain in a chain locker behind the windlass, a frequently seen scenario.

 

It still looks a recipe to catch every loose rope and as to reversing through undergrowth when you meet another boat on a narrow bit, no chance.

 

Edited by Detling
Spall chucker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Detling said:

How about all chain in a chain locker behind the windlass, a frequently seen scenario.

 

It still looks a recipe to catch every loose rope and as to reversing through undergrowth when you meet another boat on a narrow bit, no chance.

 

I'm sure (I hope) there's a cable locker below deck and that's where the stowed chain is, but what of the chain when the anchor deploys? What stops it just dragging around the forecastle causing damage and scraping away the lovely paint at the very least? I don't see t WO rivets pivoting that delicate looking chute thing the anchor is currently sat in taking much strain even if the rode does somehow stay in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just had this bracket fitted by Oxley Marine on the Staffs & Worcester.

 

Although the anchor is at the stern, the anchor point is at the bow. When on a river the rope is connected to the anchor point is then laid along the gunnel and attached to the chain (kept in a bucket near the anchor) the chain is then connected to the anchor. This means if ever I need to deploy the anchor I can do so from the steering position and not waste time running through the boat. I'm aware that that means if travelling down stream the boat will need to swing round. However if travelling upstream and I have no power then the boat will continue backwards until the anchor bites. 

IMG_20180926_113601759.jpg

IMG_20180926_125543924.jpg

Edited by BrumSaint
  • Happy 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the fitting which gives a neat solution to the anchor stowage. I would be concerned about the access to the two dollys and I would strongly consider fitting a seperate strong point for the anchor rode, with a strong backing plate,  say midway between the port dolly and the swan neck.   It would then be possible to have the rode at the stern when travelling downstream in a narrow river - especially if there is insufficient river width to allow the boat to swing. If not the boat could end up aground at both ends which could have serious consequences.

 

Howard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A vaguely related point on the tidal Thames, which has more bridges than most.

When I am crewing on other peoples boats I always stress the importance of getting lined up with the arch (ie the line perpendicular to the bridge, passing through the centre of the arch) a good distance away. That means that if your engine fails as you approach the bridge you have some chance of going through the bridge rather than hitting one of the piers - given you won't have time to deploy the anchor and for it to bite and then (usually) turn the boat around by 180 degrees. 

I have to say that I see quite a few boats crossing a bridge pier far too close. And that's even before you take account of what you can't see (a somewhat extreme sample in this photo, when the plug had been pulled out at Richmond).

 

dscf1812.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 29/09/2018 at 09:47, cuthound said:

 

To be honest I would be worried about potential damage to other boats that this arrangement might cause.

 

Neither effective nor pretty.

It isn't uncommon for cruisers, more often US models, to have the bow roller and anchor the furthest point out on the bow.

 

That said it was the bow roller of the boat we towed back from West Stockwith earlier this year that damaged the back of the boat not the anchor. We had removed the anchor as we thought it would do more damage if it did run into us. As it happens it would probably have done less but hindsight is a wonderful thing!

 

20180325_152424.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.