Stuffing box dripping oil/grease

[MartinV]

Hi

 

First off apologies if this is a simpleton question - I've only had a narrowboat for 12 months and I'm learning every day!

 

Our 39ft narrowboat has started leaking grease into the bilges seemingly from the stuffing box.  It only started doing this two weeks ago but hasn't gone away. It's not much but it's annoying me as it's messy and I try to keep the engine bay as clean as possbile.  I've circled the drip in red on the picture.  We've also started getting water in the bilges after cruising at high revs on the river.  It's not enough to cause problems but again it never used to happen and is annoying.

 

Could this mean that I need to replace the packing or just tighten the bolts?  I replaced the stern gland greaser about six months ago from the grease gun type to the screw type and we always use it after cruising.

 

Any help would be very greatfully received.

 

Many thanks

 

Martin

 

[matty40s]

looking at the gap you have left, you are definitely due for a repacking soon.

When it gets bad it spatters up the side walls as well so you aren't desperate yet.

[MartinV]

Matty

 

Thanks so much for getting back so quickly.

 

I'll have a look on YouTube for videos on replacing the packing (I think I've read that it's something I can do myself whilst the boat is in the water? I'll have to check)

 

Many thanks,

 

Martin

[johnnie1uk]

You can do it in the water, wrap some clingfilm round the prop shaft where it goes into the boat.

First prepare your new packing though. so that it is ready to put in.

When I last did it I didn't even get a cupfull of water come through.

[MartinV]

Johnnie,

 

Many thanks - I'll give it a go (when the wind dies down and we stop rocking like we're on a roller coaster ? )

 

Cheers

 

Martin

[matty40s]

yes you can, you need a length of packing rope, there are 3 sizes available depending on the gap between the prop shaft and box outer.  Most chandlers will sell you a length enough for 3 strips.

It is easier to cut your packing before starting to undo anything, measure it round your prop shaft and cut 3 lengths.

Grease your stern gland well and then remove lock nuts and then the other nuts. slide the outer pusher out and pull out any old packing using a wood screw or small pick.

If your packing will not quite fit between the shaft and outer, use a hammer to flatten it along its length until it can slide in the gap.

Generally, if you manage to use all 3 strips, the ends of each will be positioned at 12 o clock for the first, 4 o clock for the second and 8  o clock for the third. Sometimes you will only get 2 lengths in so dont worry. You can use the pusher to push each length fully in manually, when the lengths are in, fit the pusher and tighten the nuts (just past hand tight at first. run the engine in gear, and tighten the nuts if water is coming in, the brass housing should become warm, not hot. Loosen off slightly if becoming hot. When you are happy with it, fit he lock nut as well.

[MartinV]

Matty

 

Thanks so much for this!! It's fantastic to get such great advice!

 

(Sorry for the delay in replying - I was on bedtime story duty).

 

Thanks

 

Martin

[Scholar Gypsy]

While you are down there, you might want to put a container under the stern tube and put the bilge pump into it. That way anything coming through the stern tube is captured and won't make a mess of your nice neat bilges! This photo may help - you can see the newly installed float switch too.

 

[X Alan W]

Since the dripping of the grease have you felt the stuffing box on shut down after a good run ? is it hot ? if yes your engine engine mount /bolts have come loose & altered the alignment causing the stern gear to run hot melt the grease the posts covering the packing replacement holds good

[Neil Smith]

You could try tightening it for now and if it cures it repack when it starts again, you might get another 2 years depending on usage.

 

Neil

[matty40s]

36 minutes ago, X Alan W said:

Since the dripping of the grease have you felt the stuffing box on shut down after a good run ? is it hot ? if yes your engine engine mount /bolts have come loose & altered the alignment causing the stern gear to run hot melt the grease the posts covering the packing replacement holds good

Now you are going to scare him!!!

[Rickent]

1 hour ago, matty40s said:

Now you are going to scare him!!!

But the grease has to be hot to drip like that surely.

[Scholar Gypsy]

12 minutes ago, Rickent said:

But the grease has to be hot to drip like that surely.

No, just warm. And the stuffing box should be warm.

 

PS I noticed in the photo that the greaser doesn't appear to be bolted to anything. Another job for the to-do list ???

Edited September 21, 2018 by Scholar Gypsy

[bizzard]

12 hours ago, matty40s said:

yes you can, you need a length of packing rope, there are 3 sizes available depending on the gap between the prop shaft and box outer.  Most chandlers will sell you a length enough for 3 strips.

It is easier to cut your packing before starting to undo anything, measure it round your prop shaft and cut 3 lengths.

Grease your stern gland well and then remove lock nuts and then the other nuts. slide the outer pusher out and pull out any old packing using a wood screw or small pick.

If your packing will not quite fit between the shaft and outer, use a hammer to flatten it along its length until it can slide in the gap.

Generally, if you manage to use all 3 strips, the ends of each will be positioned at 12 o clock for the first, 4 o clock for the second and 8  o clock for the third. Sometimes you will only get 2 lengths in so dont worry. You can use the pusher to push each length fully in manually, when the lengths are in, fit the pusher and tighten the nuts (just past hand tight at first. run the engine in gear, and tighten the nuts if water is coming in, the brass housing should become warm, not hot. Loosen off slightly if becoming hot. When you are happy with it, fit he lock nut as well.

Fitting one every four hours will take him ages,    8 hours.

[MartinV]

2 hours ago, matty40s said:

Now you are going to scare him!!!

You're right!!! Thanks though Alan, something else to check ?

[MartinV]

1 hour ago, Scholar Gypsy said:

No, just warm. And the stuffing box should be warm.

 

PS I noticed in the photo that the greaser doesn't appear to be bolted to anything. Another job for the to-do list ???

Yep! Another job for the list. I was making good headway through the engine bay list of jobs after 6 months of owning the boat but then a Marina, who shall remain nameless for now, when filling up our Diesel decided to ignore the cut off of the pump and continued filling. The pressure blew the fuel guage out of the diesel tank and then proceeded to put around 70 litres of fuel into the engine bay which then, because our boat has gaps designed to allow unwanted water to flow from the front to the engine bay, carried on up the boat all the way to the bathroom. 

 

It's taken me four months to get the engine bay clean but a lot of the ballast under the floor is contaminated so it still stinks of diesel under the bed - despite scraping all of the accessible residue out. Didn't get any help from the marina and they didn't even bother to reply to an email I sent them.

 

Is there a "proper" way to move the stern gland greaser to a more accessible location?

Thanks everyone by the way! Really appreciate all this advice and help! Martin

[Scholar Gypsy]

3 minutes ago, MartinV said:

Yep! Another job for the list. I was making good headway through the engine bay list of jobs after 6 months of owning the boat but then a Marina, who shall remain nameless for now, when filling up our Diesel decided to ignore the cut off of the pump and continued filling. The pressure blew the fuel guage out of the diesel tank and then proceeded to put around 70 litres of fuel into the engine bay which then, because our boat has gaps designed to allow unwanted water to flow from the front to the engine bay, carried on up the boat all the way to the bathroom. 

 

It's taken me four months to get the engine bay clean but a lot of the ballast under the floor is contaminated so it still stinks of diesel under the bed - despite scraping all of the accessible residue out. Didn't get any help from the marina and they didn't even bother to reply to an email I sent them.

 

Is there a "proper" way to move the stern gland greaser to a more accessible location?

Thanks everyone by the way! Really appreciate all this advice and help! Martin

Ouch. Within reason you can put the greaser where you like, and where there is something convenient (not the hull!) to bolt it to. Then run a pipe (plastic or copper, according to taste) to the gland. You'll probably need some new olives. 

[MartinV]

20 minutes ago, Scholar Gypsy said:

Ouch. Within reason you can put the greaser where you like, and where there is something convenient (not the hull!) to bolt it to. Then run a pipe (plastic or copper, according to taste) to the gland. You'll probably need some new olives. 

Cheers. I'll add it to the list ?

[Mad Harold]

Just now, Scholar Gypsy said:

5 minutes ago, MartinV said:

Yep! Another job for the list. I was making good headway through the engine bay list of jobs after 6 months of owning the boat but then a Marina, who shall remain nameless for now, when filling up our Diesel decided to ignore the cut off of the pump and continued filling. The pressure blew the fuel guage out of the diesel tank and then proceeded to put around 70 litres of fuel into the engine bay which then, because our boat has gaps designed to allow unwanted water to flow from the front to the engine bay, carried on up the boat all the way to the bathroom. 

 

It's taken me four months to get the engine bay clean but a lot of the ballast under the floor is contaminated so it still stinks of diesel under the bed - despite scraping all of the accessible residue out. Didn't get any help from the marina and they didn't even bother to reply to an email I sent them.

 

 

 

You have my sympathy for the diesel overflow.Had similar with my boat in that when I bought it a previous owner had put a load of broken paving slabs in the engine bay and I couldn't see any reason for this,because when I removed them,the boat was still in trim.They became contaminated with diesel drips and the stink found it's way into the cabin.Cleaning the engine bay with "Gunk" the smell of diesel gradually went,over a week or so.

I think in your case,if your ballast is broken paving slabs,then the smell of diesel may well last for months.because the diesel will be well soaked in.May be best to dump the contaminated ballast,clean up the bilge,and put fresh ballast in. 

[MartinV]

1 minute ago, Mad Harold said:

You have my sympathy for the diesel overflow.Had similar with my boat in that when I bought it a previous owner had put a load of broken paving slabs in the engine bay and I couldn't see any reason for this,because when I removed them,the boat was still in trim.They became contaminated with diesel drips and the stink found it's way into the cabin.Cleaning the engine bay with "Gunk" the smell of diesel gradually went,over a week or so.

I think in your case,if your ballast is broken paving slabs,then the smell of diesel may well last for months.because the diesel will be well soaked in.May be best to dump the contaminated ballast,clean up the bilge,and put fresh ballast in. 

We've got engineering bricks but quite a few of them are inaccessible, even after removing the floor boards as they're wedged in place, almost like parts of the boat were built around them!

[Bee]

Its quite normal for a bit of grease to ooze out, it is in my boat anyway, the advice about the thing being warm and not hot is good by the way, you don't need to over tighten the nuts.

[Boater Sam]

If they are real engineering bricks they will not have soaked up much diesel but it will be trapped under them.

[MartinV]

3 hours ago, Bee said:

Its quite normal for a bit of grease to ooze out, it is in my boat anyway, the advice about the thing being warm and not hot is good by the way, you don't need to over tighten the nuts.

Thanks. Haven't had a chance today so I'll check over the weekend. Martin

1 hour ago, Boater Sam said:

If they are real engineering bricks they will not have soaked up much diesel but it will be trapped under them.

Thanks. The problem is they're pretty jammed in place. Martin