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Past the point of no return....


matty40s

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17 minutes ago, Kiwidad said:

Did it pass?

One area under kitchen is down to 9.2mm baseplate,  most of it between 9.8 and 10mm, probably internal corrosion as the sink used to drain the wrong way.

None of the sides have any pitting whatsoever, minimum thickness is 5.8mm.

I have a supply of Comastic snaffled aways to make it last a while longer yet.☺

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Now that looks like a good example of a boat that will always be worth spending money on and even if eventually it needs some steelwork replacing or doubling it will be a better choice than a much newer boat with newer steel.

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21 minutes ago, Bee said:

Now that looks like a good example of a boat that will always be worth spending money on and even if eventually it needs some steelwork replacing or doubling it will be a better choice than a much newer boat with newer steel.

It's okish but it does need a decent engine fitting ?

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Day 3,topcoat first coat going on the black panels,  all side doors now ready for top coat, everything else sanded ready and tapes in place for the Ermine White to start. 

Discussion going on about rear panels, should we go for a dark.grey instead of black........

20180921_154008.jpg

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On 20/09/2018 at 21:20, matty40s said:

One area under kitchen is down to 9.2mm baseplate,  most of it between 9.8 and 10mm, probably internal corrosion as the sink used to drain the wrong way.

None of the sides have any pitting whatsoever, minimum thickness is 5.8mm.

 

Even so, I recommend overplating ALL of it!

 

(I'd make a GERREAT surveyor, I reckon.....)

 

 

 

 

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On 20/09/2018 at 22:06, matty40s said:

You weren't in when we came past you at Braunston last week - someone else WAS in though and has booked the first available slot on 2020!

?

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9 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Even so, I recommend overplating ALL of it!

 

(I'd make a GERREAT surveyor, I reckon.....)

 

 

 

 

Are you by any chance in the overplating trade?:giggles: Seriously though,when I was looking for a boat,I often wondered why many boats were advertised as recently fully overplated,and many of them were ten  years or more younger than the one I bought,which had not had the hull overplated.

If the majority of the hull is corroded or the baseplate eroded wafer thin,then I can see that as a good reason to overplate,but if like mine, the survey noted rust pitting 1 and 2mm deep,and the rest of the hull readings between 4.2-4.9, [its 6 5 3mm originally} then surely it is repairable by spot welding.The surveyor's report said "monitor the hull sides with a view to repair/overplate.

I am beginning to think {and I am quite prepared to be shot down about this} that many boats are overplated unnecessarily due to :

Overcautious surveyors covering their backs.

Overcautious insurance companies.

Biased advice from boat repairers.{its obviously more profitable to overplate,than spot weld}

The idea especially from newer boaters,and some more experienced ones too,that unless a boat is 10 6 4mm,then it needs overplating or it is in danger of sinking shortly.

I think [ and again I am quite prepared to be contradicted ] that the durability of a boat hull  depends on the quality of the steel used in construction. I know some contributors on this forum say steel is steel,but it is a fact is it not that some steel corrodes quicker than others.

Also has the boat been blacked regularly and any other signs of corrosion treated.

Only been boating two years,so I welcome any opinions/flak.

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It starts from day 1 when the boat is built and launched. If the steel is good quality then you have a chance. If the millscale is removed before blacking/painting you have more of a chance.

If the boat is protected with a coating that doesn't get softened by diesel (normal bitumen coatings), then you have an even better chance of protecting your investment.

If a boat is launched where the bow thruster tube hasn't been blacked,  is full of welding slag ......then chances are your boat will be letting in water before 10 years are up.

Eh, Collingwood????

Edited by matty40s
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1 hour ago, Mad Harold said:

Are you by any chance in the overplating trade?:giggles: Seriously though,when I was looking for a boat,I often wondered why many boats were advertised as recently fully overplated,and many of them were ten  years or more younger than the one I bought,which had not had the hull overplated.

If the majority of the hull is corroded or the baseplate eroded wafer thin,then I can see that as a good reason to overplate,but if like mine, the survey noted rust pitting 1 and 2mm deep,and the rest of the hull readings between 4.2-4.9, [its 6 5 3mm originally} then surely it is repairable by spot welding.The surveyor's report said "monitor the hull sides with a view to repair/overplate.

I am beginning to think {and I am quite prepared to be shot down about this} that many boats are overplated unnecessarily due to :

Overcautious surveyors covering their backs.

Overcautious insurance companies.

Biased advice from boat repairers.{its obviously more profitable to overplate,than spot weld}

The idea especially from newer boaters,and some more experienced ones too,that unless a boat is 10 6 4mm,then it needs overplating or it is in danger of sinking shortly.

I think [ and again I am quite prepared to be contradicted ] that the durability of a boat hull  depends on the quality of the steel used in construction. I know some contributors on this forum say steel is steel,but it is a fact is it not that some steel corrodes quicker than others.

Also has the boat been blacked regularly and any other signs of corrosion treated.

Only been boating two years,so I welcome any opinions/flak.

I suspect you are right about unnecessary overplating.

 

Steel of the same grade corrodes at different rates as a result of environment. A basic understanding of the science of steel composition and corrosion should lead to that conclusion. I could show you lots of evidence of uncoated steel of varying ages, origins and alloys in normal atmospheric conditions that doesn't corrode very much at all. That's because it's all basically iron and subject to the same chemical reactions. I could also also show you what happens when accelerants to corrosion are introduced. Whether a piece of mild steel (which almost all boats are fabricated from) is of good or bad quality in relation to it's specification will almost certainly have no significant bearing on its corrosion resistance properties. I can't see any scientific reason why it should.

 

And all the metallurgists I work with know that modern steel is a far superior product than anything produced 50 years ago. More importantly they also know why. I see the empirical evidence of that on a daily basis. Of course for the reasons stated above that has no bearing on corrosion of narrowboats.

 

JP

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As steel ages it's surface composition changes making it more cathodic, (or is it anodic?) compared to new steel of the same composition. If new steel is in contact with old steel, then accelerated corrosion of the new steel cathodically  protects the old. This was a well documented phenomenon in the days of steel underground fuel storage systems where new tanks and pipework installed on the same interconnected system would likely fail first. 

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