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Eberspacher advice


Saima

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Hello sailors

 

Please can someone offer advice? After two failed ebay purchases one new refurbished and one supposedly brand new heater I have decided to put my hand in my pocket and buy this heater from a reputable supplier. Has anyone recently purchased an eberspacher that worked in the UK? It's the D5WSC 12v heater I require

 

I'd appreciate all advice available

Thanks in advance

Saima

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6 hours ago, Saima said:

Hello sailors

 

Please can someone offer advice? After two failed ebay purchases one new refurbished and one supposedly brand new heater I have decided to put my hand in my pocket and buy this heater from a reputable supplier. Has anyone recently purchased an eberspacher that worked in the UK? It's the D5WSC 12v heater I require

 

I'd appreciate all advice available

Thanks in advance

Saima

Halls Electrical ( http://www.hallselectrical.com/our-services/vehicle-heating/ ) have a good reputation.

I heve not used them myself.

 

Steve

 

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6 hours ago, Saima said:

Hello sailors

 

Please can someone offer advice? After two failed ebay purchases one new refurbished and one supposedly brand new heater I have decided to put my hand in my pocket and buy this heater from a reputable supplier. Has anyone recently purchased an eberspacher that worked in the UK? It's the D5WSC 12v heater I require

 

I'd appreciate all advice available

Thanks in advance

Saima

 

I don't think it matters if you are in the UK or not - I don't think the Eberspacher knows where it is.

 

If would be odd to have two different units (both 'as new') fail to work. How are you installing them / who is installing them?

 

If it is a totally new installation is the electical supply sufficient - Ebers are very, very picky about supply voltage - I have known people whose batteries are not in tip-top condition that can only start the Eber if they start the engine first.

 

If you have not been using a person with knowledge of installing these heaters, it may be a better use of your cash to get one of the other units 'fixed' and installed properly rather than buying a third unit which may not work either (if the method of installation and electrical supply are not correct)

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28 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

I don't think it matters if you are in the UK or not - I don't think the Eberspacher knows where it is.

 

If would be odd to have two different units (both 'as new') fail to work. How are you installing them / who is installing them?

 

If it is a totally new installation is the electical supply sufficient - Ebers are very, very picky about supply voltage - I have known people whose batteries are not in tip-top condition that can only start the Eber if they start the engine first.

 

If you have not been using a person with knowledge of installing these heaters, it may be a better use of your cash to get one of the other units 'fixed' and installed properly rather than buying a third unit which may not work either (if the method of installation and electrical supply are not correct)

Seconded.  One random ebay unit not working is unfortunate, but two sounds like a bad installation.  You can take your units to a local eberspacher dealer/service agent and ask them to check if they are OK on their test bench - there might be nothing wrong with either unit.

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From the manual, 10 failed starts in succession triggers a control box lockout, which basically requires a factory reset. So if it fails to start once because of low  voltage,  persistant retries,  without  attending to the lack of voltage will require professional intervention.  To avoid this, at least one hire boat company,  stipulated that the propulsion engine must be running before starting the eber. Once the heater was running the engine could be shut down.

Clean fuel, plenty of volts, and keep them running hard, if it dropped down to low fire we would provoke ours  back up to high fire, by drawing off hot water, or opening up another radiator, for a few minutes before every shutdown. In five years trouble free. 

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22 hours ago, DandV said:

From the manual, 10 failed starts in succession triggers a control box lockout, which basically requires a factory reset. So if it fails to start once because of low  voltage,  persistant retries,  without  attending to the lack of voltage will require professional intervention.  To avoid this, at least one hire boat company,  stipulated that the propulsion engine must be running before starting the eber. Once the heater was running the engine could be shut down.

Clean fuel, plenty of volts, and keep them running hard, if it dropped down to low fire we would provoke ours  back up to high fire, by drawing off hot water, or opening up another radiator, for a few minutes before every shutdown. In five years trouble free. 

Thank you :)

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On 08/09/2018 at 19:40, Just Heaven said:

Halls Electrical ( http://www.hallselectrical.com/our-services/vehicle-heating/ ) have a good reputation.

I heve not used them myself.

 

Steve

 

Thank you! I'm thinking of going with pf jones if i can't get it at my local dealer. There's a list of eber approved suppliers on their website. 

On 08/09/2018 at 19:45, b0atman said:

voltage is essential and lots of my problems where cured by adding the occasional white diesel to my tank 

 

 

Thanks for the advice, never thought of adding white diesel - great idea!

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49 minutes ago, Saima said:

Red diesel is known to clog up pipes wise guy. 

Absolute bollocks!

The BP refinery in Grangemouth made one grade of diesel each season( winter grade different from summer grade) and the red dye was added to that. They are both the same.

Maybe adding biodiesel causes a problem but white diesel ain't goin' to stop your problem!

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3 hours ago, Robbo said:

In the past Red used to have more sulphur which these type of heaters didn’t like, now the only difference is the colour.   If you keep diesel more than 6 months get FAME free diesel.

Our diesel was always red whatever we could obtain on the cut and our last fill of the season was September and the boat was left totally unattended until late April early May. Never asked about it's fame. But from my experience as an ex oil company engineer who was responsible for fuel storage on many critical installations, I placed a lot of importance in ensuring, and verifying that  fuel was clean and DRY and filters were regularily checked and replaced. This was obviously mandigory in aviation fuel management but the same principles applied for all fuels. Fuel housekeeping. From my experience checking water in boat fuel incidents, the prime source was fill point and vent point water ingress, poor location and poor fill point seals. On my narrowboat, at least twice a year I would draw a bottom sample of fuel from the tank, using a crude plastic bulb pump through the fill point. Then allow it to settle in a glass jar  and check for water and crud. Described as clear and bright and free of seperated water globules. Always had a pass. At one stage a major oil company test for aviation fuel was that you could read newsprint through a Johnnie Walker bottle full of fuel. I was totally opposed to routine fuel dosing. The use of such additives should be restricted to a final stage of a clean up after a contamination incident. Fuel biocides are very toxic and fuel additives generally contain an emulsifier that prevents water in fuel situations being able to be identified and may well enlarge the volume available to grow fuel bug at any fuel water interface. Any emulsifier will also disable any water separator fitted.

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Another thing to watch is the difference between summer and winter grades. In the summer, the temperature never gets down near zero so the refinery can dump all sorts of crap stuff in the gasoil. In Winter, a lot of the streams they use to blend into the final gasoil contain things that will settle out as wax if temp drops too low so they have to limit these feeds .....via the cloud point measurement. Bottom line is that the diesel you buy in the summer will have more wax in it that could cause problems in the winter and a sensitive area will be the fuel lines to the ebersparky thingy. A lot of us fill our tanks full at the end of the season. I wait until early October before filling mine as I am more likely to get winter grade diesel then. Winter diesel is fine for use in the summer.

The Grangemouth refinery supplied summer grade to the end of August. In September they changed to an intermediate grade and then on to winter grade in October.

They do the same for gasoline (ie petrol). In the summer they have to limit the amount of low boiling stuff (Butane, C4 and heptane C5). Typically you might see 5% C4s. The limit here is the Reid vapour pressure (RVP) of the gasoline. In the winter, the RVP limit is much higher so they can stuff as much C4 as they like in. For a refinery whose economics revolve around how much C4 they can get rid of, it is typical to see 10% or 12 % or even 15% C4 in in the winter. C4 is lower density so for our gallon of petrol we get less weight of fuel to burn. Winter grade gasoline is therefore not so good in the summer as the RVP can be too high.

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2 hours ago, DandV said:

Any emulsifier will also disable any water separator fitted.

 

2 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

That's an interesting point I've never seen mentioned here before. Thanks!

 

 

On the other hand, not all additives are equal....

 

  • Exocet’s marine fuel conditioner increases fuel shelf life and inhibit fuel tank sludge formation
  • It prevents microbiological growth
  • It promotes a clean fuel system and inhibit injector fouling
  • It promotes fuel-water separation to prevent water carryover to the engine
Edited by Sea Dog
Source: Exocet's website
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7 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

 

 

On the other hand, not all additives are equal....

 

  • Exocet’s inhibit fuel tank sludge formation
  • It prevents microbiological growth
  • It promotes a clean fuel system and inhibit injector fouling
  • It promotes fuel-water separation to prevent water carryover to the engine

A hit with an Exocet ensures that there is no fuel tank sludge formation as there is no fuel tank

There is no microbiological growth - it is all 'fried'

There are no injectors left to foul

The fuel cannot carryover to the engine as 1) The fuel has been vapourised, & 2) There is no engine left.

 

Image result for exocet missile

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15 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

Gurls - Hu !!!!!

 

I have two tractors, a mini-digger, a dumper, 2 boats (each with 2 engines) and 2 eberspacher heaters - all run on red-diesel - non get blocked pipes - what am I doing wrong ?

Not a lot by the sound of it. The only thing I can think of is you could probably find room for another tractor! ;)

 

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