Black Jack Bitumen Paint

[Byll]

Has anyone tried Black Jack Bitumen paint? I'm off to dry dock next weekend and will be blacking, but haven't used this stuff before. Seems very good value but is it a case you get what you pay for? So could anyone who's used it give me any feedback please? We usually black every 3 years, so I'd be interested in anyone's experience of it over that sort of period.

[OldGoat]

I've used this stuff at home - fine for the purposes shown on the tin but NOT as hull blacking - too thin, not enough body....

I'm sure others will disagree.....

[Sea Dog]

If you black every 3 years, you may be best off putting good stuff on to make sure it stays the course.  Pushing your interval and using cheap stuff is probably false economy. 

 

[sharpness]

That one used to be suitable for potable water tanks but isn't now. I used it for our integral water tank but its really no good for blacking the bottom, as above, too thin & lacking in body.

[RichM]

I use this for blacking over my gunwales which were already black to begin with. I’d recommend it for this purpose as it’s easy to apply with little mess.   

 

It does go on quite thin however as mentioned so I would not use it for hull blacking though I use it for minor touchups inbetween blacking. Seems to do the job but in any case can’t complain for the price.

 

 

[MtB]

3 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

If you black every 3 years, you may be best off putting good stuff on to make sure it stays the course.  Pushing your interval and using cheap stuff is probably false economy. 

 

 

So what IS ‘good stuff’ for blacking??

[Sea Dog]

8 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

So what IS ‘good stuff’ for blacking??

Is that a point you're making or a question you're asking Mike?    Either way it's a good one. 

 

I chose coats of Rylards Premium and Rytex and used the same again about 27 months later based on its performance the first time.  I'd offer that as "good stuff".  I had heard they'd stopped making it under new regulations, but it appears to still be for sale and is on their product list on their website. 

 

Not so good stuff would certainly include anything not meant for that application: Black Jack is probably miscast in this role although I bet it has been used thousands of times and will have its supporters - but then I wouldn't be surprised to find some using and advocating the ubiquitous Garage Floor Paint!

 

 

 

[Dr Bob]

9 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

So what IS ‘good stuff’ for blacking??

If in doubt, use international. They only sell good stuff. Jotun are similar. Both top of the range. Both top end of the price range.

I do like the way International's Inter....wotever... brushes out.

[bizzard]

On the other hand, being thinner the drying times are probably quicker, ''read instructions on the can''. Most folk tend to be impatient with the long drying times of the thicker stuff,'' Rylard premium'' ect and re float the boat far too early then wonder why its soft and scrapes off easily.  As for its under water performance, I don't know.

[cereal tiller]

17 minutes ago, Dr Bob said:

If in doubt, use international. They only sell good stuff. Jotun are similar. Both top of the range. Both top end of the price range.

I do like the way International's Inter....wotever... brushes out.

I used Intertuff over ordinaire Bitumen ,it dries to a Plasticky (Vinyl?) finish which tended to Crack and Peel in Strong Sunlight on Hot Days.I think the Intertuff trapped heat and Melted the Bitumen beneath it.

Biggish sections of Blacking (100 mm ish) lost adhesion and Rust occurred behind the loose sections.

Went back to the Basic stuff and no problems since.

[bizzard]

The words,''EVER BUILD'' are a bit worrying.

[Guest]

I just repainted the hull from the waterline up to the gunwales with B & Q's Rooftrade to keep things looking fresh until the next lift out. Certainly looks fresh the day after but can't report any further than that at present.

[Sea Dog]

4 hours ago, Rumsky said:

........with B & Q's Rooftrade......

I knew there'd be a hull equivalent of garage floor paint on the superstructure! 

 

[WotEver]

36 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

I knew there'd be a hull equivalent of garage floor paint on the superstructure! 

 

Lol

 

at least it’ll be UV resistant. 

[cuthound]

1 hour ago, Sea Dog said:

I knew there'd be a hull equivalent of garage floor paint on the superstructure! 

 

 

I wonder if you could use Artex on the roof, should be cheaper than non slip? ?

[b0atman]

pylon paint seems to be a good product if you like grey

 

[reg]

Another one using black jack above the water line.

It's no good for below the waterline though. 

Shame it's no longer classified as suitable for water tanks though as it was easy to apply and lasted fairly well. 

[WotEver]

1 hour ago, reg said:

Shame it's no longer classified as suitable for water tanks though as it was easy to apply and lasted fairly well. 

Has the formulation changed, or just the certification?  If the formula hasn’t changed then why not continue using it?

[MtB]

4 hours ago, b0atman said:

pylon paint seems to be a good product if you like grey

 

 

 

Is it the same as Network Rail bridge paint? That is also grey and seems to last brilliantly.

[b0atman]

30 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

 

Is it the same as Network Rail bridge paint? That is also grey and seems to last brilliantly.

the rail bridge Cropredy to Mollington is a lovely boat green.

[Lily Rose]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Has the formulation changed, or just the certification?  If the formula hasn’t changed then why not continue using it?

I bought some last year and did my water tank with it. And lived to tell the tale (so far anyway)!

 

The very helpful and knowledgeable lady in the chandlery at Braunston bottom lock convinced me it was an issue of certification change, not formulation. I believed her, in part because she also talked me out of spending money on an unrelated item. I like it when retailers, tradesmen etc do that, it makes a refreshing change from people trying to upsell.

 

 

[reg]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Has the formulation changed, or just the certification?  If the formula hasn’t changed then why not continue using it?

Formula hasn't changed apparently but I understand that  they decided that the cost of obtaining certification to meet the new rules were prohibitive so decided not to certify it. 

Personally I've, just gone back to bare metal so decided to try  vactan only method. 

 

[Sea Dog]

8 hours ago, Lily Rose said:

The very helpful and knowledgeable lady in the chandlery at Braunston bottom lock convinced me it was an issue of certification change, not formulation. 

I believe that's also true of asbestos. It was used widely and was thought to be wonderful in its day then someone decided to revoke it's certification.  Same stuff as before though, eh? 

 

Do we trust the manufacturer to inform us whether a safety concern is a technicality or a genuine long term health issue?  How did that work out with tobacco companies?  If we trust whoever makes Black Jack to tell us whether it's safe in water tanks, why not trust Monsanto in the current Roundup debate? We can't have it both ways and I'm not sure the best judge would be  "the lady in the shop".  They do not always get it right, but the scientists and regulators are the best we've got.  All opinions should not be given the same weighting factor.  

[WotEver]

1 hour ago, Sea Dog said:

I believe that's also true of asbestos. It was used widely and was thought to be wonderful in its day then someone decided to revoke it's certification.  Same stuff as before though, eh? 

 

Do we trust the manufacturer to inform us whether a safety concern is a technicality or a genuine long term health issue?  How did that work out with tobacco companies?  If we trust whoever makes Black Jack to tell us whether it's safe in water tanks, why not trust Monsanto in the current Roundup debate? We can't have it both ways and I'm not sure the best judge would be  "the lady in the shop".  They do not always get it right, but the scientists and regulators are the best we've got.  All opinions should not be given the same weighting factor.  

However, the reason I asked the question was that I thought I’d read that the product had been tested and found safe but when the new regulations came out requiring expensive re-certification it was deemed to not be cost effective for the limited extra sales that would be achieved. In much the same way, the only difference between some CO detectors that include ‘Boats’ and ones which don't is the money spent on obtaining the extra certification. 

[Byll]

Thanks for all the advice everyone, pretty much confirms what I was thinking. As this is our 4th blacking we've had a couple of opportunities to see how our previous work held up and as it always been very good, I reckon we'll use the same as we always do!

 

Still, gives me a pleasing opportunity to use a very old saying in its original context; "Don't spoilt the ship for a ha'peth of tar!"