Jump to content

negative link between leisure & starter battery ?


sooty

Featured Posts

Hi, currently installing the leisure battery wiring on a widebeam sailaway .

The Starter battery is of course  already fully  installed with the negative cable returning  to the Engine block (canaline 52)

The leisure and starter battery negatives always seem to be shown linked together

The Starter battery is on the port swim and the leisure battery bank is on the starboard swim, quite a distance apart.

Can the leisure battery negative cable be run to the engine block bolt  (as is the starter battery) or does it have to run all the way round to the starter battery negative terminal?

Connecting to the engine block would be a much shorter / tidier run and seems logical as it is only the charging current return ?

I know it is also recommended to take a strap to the Hull from this point when 240v ac is installed.  (along with a connection to mains earth)

Thank you in advance.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, sooty said:

Hi, currently installing the leisure battery wiring on a widebeam sailaway .

The Starter battery is of course  already fully  installed with the negative cable returning  to the Engine block (canaline 52)

The leisure and starter battery negatives always seem to be shown linked together

The Starter battery is on the port swim and the leisure battery bank is on the starboard swim, quite a distance apart.

Can the leisure battery negative cable be run to the engine block bolt  (as is the starter battery) or does it have to run all the way round to the starter battery negative terminal?

Connecting to the engine block would be a much shorter / tidier run and seems logical as it is only the charging current return ?

I know it is also recommended to take a strap to the Hull from this point when 240v ac is installed.  (along with a connection to mains earth)

Thank you in advance.

 

 I am not sure the bit in red is true. Yes you do need a 240V AC hull bond but so people can find it easily it is normally adjacent to the 12V bond but NOT on the same fixing. The reason is in the unlikely event of the bond becoming detached you could still have a connection between the 12v and 240V systems so a 240V fault could put 240V AC onto the 12V circuits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 I am not sure the bit in red is true. Yes you do need a 240V AC hull bond but so people can find it easily it is normally adjacent to the 12V bond but NOT on the same fixing. The reason is in the unlikely event of the bond becoming detached you could still have a connection between the 12v and 240V systems so a 240V fault could put 240V AC onto the 12V circuits.

Correct. And the 12V negative (so in this case, engine block) should be bonded to the hull regardless of whether 230V is installed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Correct. And the 12V negative (so in this case, engine block) should be bonded to the hull regardless of whether 230V is installed. 

Agreed - otherwise you risk smocking gear and throttle cables under fault conditions!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.