Best Alternator for Lombardini Engine

[Alan de Enfield]

26 minutes ago, curlass24 said:

one last thing, anyone know the best oil for lombardini ldw 1404 engines?

SAE 10W 30, or 10W 40

 

See page 25 of attached manual (it may be useful if you don't have a copy)

 

Interesting that for the 1404 the most economical engine speed is shown at 2000rpm

 

 

 

 

Lombardini Work Shop Manual .pdf

 

Edit to amend 200rpm to 2000rpm

Edited July 18, 2018 by Alan de Enfield

[Neil Smith]

1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

SAE 10W 30, or 10W 40

 

See page 25 of attached manual (it may be useful if you don't have a copy)

 

Interesting that for the 1404 the most economical engine speed is shown at 2000rpm

 

 

 

 

Lombardini Work Shop Manual .pdf

 

Edit to amend 200rpm to 2000rpm

They are a high revving engine, I had one in a compressor/generator combo once and the thing used to scream at full chat.

 

Neil

[curlass24]

Hi guys, my altenator has arrived today but I'm struggling to get it to sork. I fitted and and the engine started but the it wasn't charging. I am now unsure where the wires should go. When I tried moving on of them there was a big spark. Any suggestions? I have three wires

[WotEver]

14 minutes ago, curlass24 said:

Hi guys, my altenator has arrived today but I'm struggling to get it to sork. I fitted and and the engine started but the it wasn't charging. I am now unsure where the wires should go. When I tried moving on of them there was a big spark. Any suggestions? I have three wires

Big fat one goes to B+. Tacho goes to W. Warning light goes to Ind. 

[curlass24]

thanks I have a d+ which only fits the tacho...

[Tony Brooks]

13 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Big fat one goes to B+. Tacho goes to W. Warning light goes to Ind. 

Warning light goes to Ind.  OR D+, depends upon alternator.

 

Just seen your reply. D+ is the warning lamp terminal. The W might be a small nut connection or the alternator my be from a car and not have a W terminal. If so any decent autoelectrical specialist should be able to solder a phase tap onto is and leave you a flying lead to connect the tacho to.

Edited August 1, 2018 by Tony Brooks

[curlass24]

great thanks. struggling to find where the others go. The engine fine how i wired it first but the light stayed on so no charging. I've now swapped the other two wires around but the power comes on without having to turn ignition

could it just be that the belt isn't on tight enough?

 

[curlass24]

right just had a look. i hve a d+ which appears to be warning light. a d- and a w...

[Tony Brooks]

6 minutes ago, curlass24 said:

great thanks. struggling to find where the others go. The engine fine how i wired it first but the light stayed on so no charging. I've now swapped the other two wires around but the power comes on without having to turn ignition

could it just be that the belt isn't on tight enough?

 

No, very unlikely, you should get at least some charge as long as its not silly  loose.

 

If you have two thick wires it could be that you put them on the wrong terminals and have now blown the diodes in the alternator. With two tick wires the negative one goes to B- or the case and the positive one goes on B+ as Wotever said.

[curlass24]

thanks I just have one thick wire

[Tony Brooks]

I think we need a clear photo of the back of the new alternator so we cans ee exactly what you have. Also remember your old one shows signs of being modified as well.

 

What is the make and model so we can perhaps look it up.

[curlass24]

the part number is ED0011572700-S (its an exact replacement for the original) will try upload photos when I can. There seems to be one bigger terminal to put the main wire but the b- is written quite far away from it so I'm unsure. This was where I wired it first and it started fine before but the light stayed on an no charging

[WotEver]

50 minutes ago, curlass24 said:

There seems to be one bigger terminal to put the main wire but the b- is written quite far away from it...

Yes. The main output (thick wire) is B+. B- if it exists is the negative connection, more often connected to the case and as you only have one thick wire that’s the main output - B+. 

1 hour ago, curlass24 said:

the light stayed on so no charging.

If the warning lamp wasn’t wired to the correct terminal then the light staying on doesn’t necessarily mean no charging. 

[curlass24]

By hi thanks for this. I only have one thick wire but can only see a b-. Is this normal or could the alternator be wrong?

[Tony Brooks]

The reason I asked for a photo is that sometimes a earth return alternator may have B- cast onto the back close to a bolt that is attaching the diode plate to the case. In other models that bolt might be insulated to give a negative connecting point.

 

You claim of a D-  worries me because it would tend to suggest this is a far from "normal" alternator.

[curlass24]

Here are the photos. So there appears to be a D+ (where I have linked the tacho). A  W (in the photo I put the thick wire on this but have now removed) and a B- on the black casing which I assume links to the nut on the left which fits the larger wire.

 

Thoughts?

 

(Thanks so much again)

[Boater Sam]

I'm not hopeful for the working condition of this alternator now that it has been so wrongly connected. 

It should be :=

B+ to battery +

D+ to indicator lamp

W to tacho

B- to ground, Engine block, battery -

[curlass24]

Thanks I can't find B+ though...

[Tony Brooks]

9 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

I'm not hopeful for the working condition of this alternator now that it has been so wrongly connected. 

It should be :=

B+ to battery +

D+ to indicator lamp

W to tacho

B- to ground, Engine block, battery -

Except I am not sure there is a B- connection. There is certainly a B- marking but it might refer to the little rectangular thing poking up through a slot in the cover. IT might refer to the star head screw below the round hole in the cover but if so its a very poor design because trying to fit a negative lead there would distort and trap the plastic cover under the ring terminal.

 

I can't see how the terminal that the THIN red wire is attached to is marked, the wiring is in the way.

 

The thick red wire should not go onto the W terminal but then I cant see what may be written under the thick red wire.

[curlass24]

Thanks Tony. So I think the thin red wire should go to the W which is how I have it wired now. The only place for a thick wire is whre the thin wire currently is but there are not markings on it

[Tony Brooks]

2 minutes ago, curlass24 said:

Thanks I can't find B+ though...

If I had to guess I would say it is the one on the other side of the plastic cover to the B- and if the thin red wire on that terminal runs under the cover to the voltage regulator it might make sense. In general B+ will be the thickest stud fitted with insulated washers and that one looks the thickest. However I am not 100% sure without the manual and the manuals for Lombardini are useless in this instance. Incidentally it seem the part number you give is a Lombardini number and not the alternator's manufacturers number

 

2 minutes ago, curlass24 said:

Thanks Tony. So I think the thin red wire should go to the W which is how I have it wired now. The only place for a thick wire is whre the thin wire currently is but there are not markings on it

So we kind of agree but do not blame me if it all goes horribly wrong.

[curlass24]

yep althought thats how I have it wired and it isn't working. 

 

Just taken a look at the old photo, (different in correct alternator which broke) and it appears the thin red wire was actually linked to the D+ so am wondering if try swapping and putting the yellow on W?

[WotEver]

9 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

If I had to guess I would say it [B+] is the one on the other side of the plastic cover to the B- and if the thin red wire on that terminal runs under the cover to the voltage regulator it might make sense. In general B+ will be the thickest stud fitted with insulated washers and that one looks the thickest.

That’s how it looks to me. 

1 minute ago, curlass24 said:

yep althought thats how I have it wired and it isn't working. 

 

Just taken a look at the old photo, (different in correct alternator which broke) and it appears the thin red wire was actually linked to the D+ so am wondering if try swapping and putting the yellow on W?

Yes, swap the thin red and the yellow. 

[Tony Brooks]

Agreed, the old photo shows the yellow lead with an in-lineconnector so its connected to a fly lead and that is almost certainly an added phase tap to drive the rev counter.

[curlass24]

So that didn't work. The green wire in the middle cones out with a connection. Could that be the added tacho connection? I took it off and we're right where d+ is.

Sorry b+. It is on the other side where I had the thin red bull now have the one thick red attached