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Painting new phenolic ply


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Is it a good idea? If so what paint? Doesn't phenolic ply have a water resistant and oleophobic surface coating anyway that most paint won't stick to very well?

 

If you do paint it how to prep? Surely you wouldn't want to key that coating and open it up, but if you don't key it then does the paint stick properly? 

Edited by blackrose
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Here's one view from the 'WISA Plywood' FAQs:

 

Can I paint phenolic film faced plywood?

We do not recommend this as it requires special paints and even then we cannot guarantee the paint will last.

http://www.wisaplywood.com/Products/frequently-asked-questions/Pages/Default.aspx

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32 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

a light sanding and coat the edges (or all the surfaces if you wish) with epoxy resin.  2 coats on the edges.  job's a good'un.

^^^^^

Wot he said.

It not dissimilar to painting GRP. Light abrasion and then a 2 part epoxy coating. 

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On some older locker top/seats that were chipped and stained I gave them a good sanding to prvide a key and then a couple of coats of floor paint (because its slightly more anti-slip than gloss). Its been OK for 10 years or more but now needs doing again. Unfortunately I think modern floor paint is now water based if you want small quantities and I have no idea what that would do.

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49 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

On some older locker top/seats that were chipped and stained I gave them a good sanding to prvide a key and then a couple of coats of floor paint (because its slightly more anti-slip than gloss). Its been OK for 10 years or more but now needs doing again. Unfortunately I think modern floor paint is now water based if you want small quantities and I have no idea what that would do.

You can still buy 2 pack floor paint.

Neil.

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23 hours ago, Murflynn said:

a light sanding and coat the edges (or all the surfaces if you wish) with epoxy resin.  2 coats on the edges.  job's a good'un.

To clarify, I'm talking about the surface of the ply, not the edges. I've already done the edges with Bonda primer and then stuck 20mm aluminium angle on with a PU adhesive (Stixall). 

 

I've just taken the deck back to bare steel and repainted with 3 coats of jotamastic 87 (epoxy). I haven't had a chance to undercoat and put topcoats of non - slip deckpaint on yet, but the epoxy is very slippery when it's wet. Treacherous. I don't think I'd want that on my deck boards by itself? 

Edited by blackrose
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22 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

On some older locker top/seats that were chipped and stained I gave them a good sanding to prvide a key and then a couple of coats of floor paint (because its slightly more anti-slip than gloss). Its been OK for 10 years or more but now needs doing again. Unfortunately I think modern floor paint is now water based if you want small quantities and I have no idea what that would do.

On old boards I'd agree, but I'm just not convinced of the wisdom of sanding the surface of new phenolic ply and removing the protective resin coating. 

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35 minutes ago, blackrose said:

On old boards I'd agree, but I'm just not convinced of the wisdom of sanding the surface of new phenolic ply and removing the protective resin coating. 

which is why I said light sanding, i.e. scratching - just to get a bond, not to 'remove' anything. ..... you can't (shouldn't) paint any surface without abrading the surface, but then you already knew that.

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Don't use etching primer. Most are designed for steel and use acid to condition the surface. It will only increase degradation of the phenolic.

Why are you painting it. It's like I said earlier. It is similar to painting GRP. If you need a different color ....OK, but if new, best left unpainted. Yes, seal the edges as advised above. If you do need to paint, then light abrasion will give you a key. The outer layer of phenolic (i.e. the gel coat) will outperform most paints.

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On 10/07/2018 at 03:29, blackrose said:

Is it a good idea? If so what paint? Doesn't phenolic ply have a water resistant and oleophobic surface coating anyway that most paint won't stick to very well?

 

If you do paint it how to prep? Surely you wouldn't want to key that coating and open it up, but if you don't key it then does the paint stick properly? 

 

I wouldnt know about painting it, unless you dont like the colour but if left as is it will last years, well mine has. I have made two large boxs from the it and left out side for over 5 years untreated all over even edges and still good. the worktop roof also all unteated and the felt ripped off about 4 years ago and still good. 

 

one thing i would do now though if used again just to lengthen the life even more for the sake of a few quid more is treat the edges with a good sealant like epoxy.

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20 hours ago, Murflynn said:

which is why I said light sanding, i.e. scratching - just to get a bond, not to 'remove' anything. ..... you can't (shouldn't) paint any surface without abrading the surface, but then you already knew that.

Any amount of sanding will remove some amount of the surface coating. That's what abrading the surface does, but then you already knew that. 

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19 hours ago, Dr Bob said:

 

Why are you painting it. It's like I said earlier. It is similar to painting GRP. If you need a different color ....OK, but if new, best left unpainted. Yes, seal the edges as advised above. If you do need to paint, then light abrasion will give you a key. The outer layer of phenolic (i.e. the gel coat) will outperform most paints.

I'm not painting it, I just asked if it was a good idea. Clearly not, thanks. Mine have some drips and smears of paint from painting my deck so I just wondered if I should paint them. I think I'll leave them alone. 

8 hours ago, W+T said:

. one thing i would do now though if used again just to lengthen the life even more for the sake of a few quid more is treat the edges with a good sealant like epoxy.

Yes, I've already done that. 

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