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Alternator ( am I expecting to much)


calon

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Thanks for the help everyone,

Anyone know anywhere capable of repairing it I'm on the shropy near brewood heading down staffs and Worcester (spose I could post it somewhere if needs be and use the genny/charger till it's back)  

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By the way with the 2 absolutely knackered batteries disconnected I charged the remaining 3 with Genny last night and this morning after very little use (fridge, TV for an couple of hours etc) the micc says there at 12.4v but as we've proven that to be 0.5v high that's a real voltage of 11.9 I guess there beond use anyway now ? . Does anyone know if I can recalibrate the micc at all because reading high is bloody annoying it reads accurately on the starter battery and reads the amps correctly.

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46 minutes ago, Sir Nibble said:

I think you have an alternator problem, diode most likely.

Agreed, he was told that a week ago.

 

If this were mine and as he is driving it from a 24" flywheel so speed should not be an issue I would be sourcing a far more common replacement like the Prestolite someone mentioned. I had enough trouble sourcing a new Paris Rhone one in at timely fashion while  in Burton and they are/were used by many car makers so goodness knows how difficult or expensive it would be to replace this one minimal delay and reasonable expense.

 

I wish more people, including so called professionals, would grasp the fact that if an alternator phase fails for some reason you still get charging but at a reduced voltage and current BUT first you need to rule out a reduced volatge becaus eof a high output. That's been done here as long as the engineer's readings were correct.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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9 minutes ago, calon said:

The volt senders are connected to battery it's not the charging voltage by coinsidense that shows as almost correct becauseof the loss on the splitcharge.

Except according to the installation instructions Sam provided it should charge at up to 14.8v.

 

I suspect your best bet would be to try Orf Mable on the S & W a few yards on the Wolverhampton side of the junction. I suspect he will know who to get it to and being close to the Birmingham conurbation there is a good chance it will be someone local. (Will someone tell the OP the name fo the company/wharf)>

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Sorry I wasn't clear then,   by correct I ment accurate as in when charging with alternator they show on the micc as they are on the multimeter.

great thanks I'l give them a ring 

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4 hours ago, calon said:

Sorry I wasn't clear then,   by correct I ment accurate as in when charging with alternator they show on the micc as they are on the multimeter.

great thanks I'l give them a ring 

Which means there is may be something wrong with the cables & connections between the micc take off point/shunt and battery. Any voltdrop on that line would not show when charging but would when discharging.

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Hi Tony here's were I'm at the micc - when there's nothing going out nothing going in if I have switched the isolater off just to be sure there's nothing muddying the waters the micc reads 0.5v higher than reality on the domestics but it's correct on the starter there's two sense wires on the shunt side as well as the much supply neg and one sense wire on positive post on starter and one on the positive post on domestics plus the power to the micc also on the same domestic positive post. I've checked those conections are tight and if it was loose somewhere wouldn't it read lower rather than higher?  I've found a copy of the manual online but I can't see any calibration options or references in the troubleshooting section to the volts reading high. Is there anything else I can be checking ? 

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1 hour ago, calon said:

Hi Tony here's were I'm at the micc - when there's nothing going out nothing going in if I have switched the isolater off just to be sure there's nothing muddying the waters the micc reads 0.5v higher than reality on the domestics but it's correct on the starter there's two sense wires on the shunt side as well as the much supply neg and one sense wire on positive post on starter and one on the positive post on domestics plus the power to the micc also on the same domestic positive post. I've checked those conections are tight and if it was loose somewhere wouldn't it read lower rather than higher?  I've found a copy of the manual online but I can't see any calibration options or references in the troubleshooting section to the volts reading high. Is there anything else I can be checking ? 

I wont have one of that type of battery destroyer so have little experience of them and their specific installation.

The two sense wires on the shunt are probably the wires that carry the voltdrop across the shunt that is then used to display current (Amps).

 

Don't understand "the much supply".

 

When you say "posts" do you mean the lead battery posts or something different.

 

I am trying to work out what would happen if the voltmeter  negative had voltdrop on it but think it would probably just read low unless the MICC uses something as a reference voltage and that for some reason wrong during discharge.

 

I also wonder if getting one of the twisted pair wires transposed with another cable on the MICC connector would do it.

 

I suspect that when you have the alternator sorted you may have to get a Mastervolt specialist to check it over.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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 Sorry predictive text "much" is micc .

 

And yes battery posts.

 

By way of cross reference I've tried moving the starter sensor to the domestic battery's and that still reads an accurate voltage on the domestics 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi just as an update in case it helps anyone else  I've taken the alternator to two different large alternator suplyiers and remanufactures despite being confident on the phone one wouldn't even test it and they were the one that does slot of rcr's work. the other bench tested it and got results that back up our own findings it's putting out half power a Max of 40a instead of the rated 80a , sadly neighter of them could repair this type of unit or suggest a suitable alternative with the same wiring. 

As it is doing something and I've got a Genny I'l leave it till I get home for winter and send it to neihoff who said they will quote for repair. Il let you know what they say when they've quoted. 

The mastervolt panel is apparently not able to be recalibrated they did offer me 30% of a new one but at 370 plus VAT it is still a flipping expensive volt meter think I'l just get used to taking 0.5v off the reading as all the other functions still work fine. 

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1 hour ago, calon said:

Hi just as an update in case it helps anyone else  I've taken the alternator to two different large alternator suplyiers and remanufactures despite being confident on the phone one wouldn't even test it and they were the one that does slot of rcr's work. the other bench tested it and got results that back up our own findings it's putting out half power a Max of 40a instead of the rated 80a , sadly neighter of them could repair this type of unit or suggest a suitable alternative with the same wiring. 

As it is doing something and I've got a Genny I'l leave it till I get home for winter and send it to neihoff who said they will quote for repair. Il let you know what they say when they've quoted. 

The mastervolt panel is apparently not able to be recalibrated they did offer me 30% of a new one but at 370 plus VAT it is still a flipping expensive volt meter think I'l just get used to taking 0.5v off the reading as all the other functions still work fine. 

If you put a silicon diode in series with the sense wire that should drop around 0.5 - 0.6v and thus bring the reading much closer. Something as basic as a 1N4001 should do it.

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