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MHS

Creaking Locker Lid

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My gas locker lid creaks horrendously when I open or close it. Ok that’s a good anti-theft device but disturbs neighbouring boats. 

 

The problem is I can’t find the best way to lubricate it. I’ve tried 3in1, Plusgas, WD40, and grease but the problem continues. 

 

I cannot open the lid and remove it, as the hinges oppose each other and are welded on. 

 

I cant be the first to have experienced this so hope someone has found the cure. 

8EA8396F-FED7-4A63-A73D-DE93470BC49F.jpeg

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have you tried copper slip spray

 

edit. used it on my defender 90 steps it worked for that

Edited by Nut

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I think that you need to keep working the lid up and down while you apply a thinish oil or even penetrating oil. With a  bit of luck that will help the oil work its way between the moving parts and also you may find it starts exuding a rusty version of the oil. This may take a fair time. Once you get that I bet the creak will stop so you can clean up and apply whatever lubricant you favour but I doubt grease will do th job because it won't work its way into the moving parts.

 

I suppose you have checked that one hinge is not skewed so the pin is beings forced against the side of  its tube.

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53 minutes ago, MHS said:

My gas locker lid creaks horrendously when I open or close it. Ok that’s a good anti-theft device but disturbs neighbouring boats. 

 

The problem is I can’t find the best way to lubricate it. I’ve tried 3in1, Plusgas, WD40, and grease but the problem continues. 

 

I cannot open the lid and remove it, as the hinges oppose each other and are welded on. 

 

I cant be the first to have experienced this so hope someone has found the cure. 

 

 

 

Nope. Odd you should post as I have it on two of my boats and was about to ask the exact same question. In addition to your list I've tried repeated applications of diesel as penetrating oil too AND that old fashioned penetrating oil the name of which escapes me but contains graphite, all to no avail.

 

I currently have two ideas to try, both fairly drastic.

 

1) Use a grinder to cut partially into the hinge joint so lubricant can reach the pivot bar

 

2) Drill out the pivot bar and replace with a slightly thinner rod with some decent clearance, with thread on each end and say Nyloc nuts.

 

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5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I think that you need to keep working the lid up and down while you apply a thinish oil or even penetrating oil.

 

The trouble with this idea is the force required to open the lid is huge, and I'm convinced the hinge pins will break from metal fatigue from repeated reversal of the strain.

(The hinge pins on both of mine are a very accurate fit and the tiny clearances have clogged with rust, I suspect.)

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Well its either try it but not force it (he does not say he can't move or open it) or do something more drastic like applying heat to red hot or whacking the hinges with a  hammer to try to break the rust up. Neither would help the paint work. I think it may take a long time to gradually work it fully open and the work the oil into the hinges.

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Try to make up a "liquid proof" dam, made up from a bead of silicone. Once cured a further bead can be applied, to give some depth.  Of course the groove at the side of the barrel of the hinge will need to be sealed as well but once it's oil tight, it can be filled with penetrant of choice.

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The lid will open fairly well, but like Mike, I’m worried it might seize up and then break when forced. Maybe I need to find a lonely spot, put some headphones on with Guns & Roses playing and with oil, “wiggle it, just a little bit”

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I'm inclined to use a 1mm width disc in my cordless grinder and cut a longitudinal slot in the top of the barrel, deep enough to penetrate to the pivot pin. Then the oil gets instant access to where it is needed, the slot can be filled with paint or sealant, and if the problem returns, is easily scraped out to apply more oil.

 

I dunno about the OP but both my hatches feel so stiff the pivot pins must be on the cusp of snapping, at which point the repair gets a lot more difficult. 

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We've got the same problem with ours but as it is infrequently opened (gas bottles at the back), it is not an issue. The lid is very heavy so it stays open when lifted. If I lubricate it, it may close unintentionally and take an appendage off!!!

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Drill a small hole in the outer housing and either tap it and fit a grease nipple (and apply grease) or leave hole open and insert penetrating oil until it operates freely and find small plastic plug to seal the hole. We had this problem on heavy exterior steel security doors and option 1 (grease nipples) was the best. But in either case lubricant has got to reach the far end of the cup.

 

Hope this helps

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9 minutes ago, LEO said:

Drill a small hole in the outer housing and either tap it and fit a grease nipple (and apply grease) or leave hole open and insert penetrating oil until it operates freely and find small plastic plug to seal the hole. We had this problem on heavy exterior steel security doors and option 1 (grease nipples) was the best. But in either case lubricant has got to reach the far end of the cup.

 

Hope this helps

 

Brilliant! 

 

Obvious now you've suggested it :) ... just like all the best ideas.

 

Grease nipples on ebay are trivial in cost. Smallest diameter mounting thread is M6, which might still be a bit big to drill and cut in the side of the hinge barrel.

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8 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Brilliant! 

 

Obvious now you've suggested it :) ... just like all the best ideas.

 

Grease nipples on ebay are trivial in cost. Smallest diameter mounting thread is M6, which might still be a bit big to drill and cut in the side of the hinge barrel.

+1

 

i will be getting the drill out later today or tomorrow. Currently busy in Stourbridge locks. 

 

Thanks for for all the suggestions. 

 

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2 minutes ago, MHS said:

+1

 

i will be getting the drill out later today or tomorrow. Currently busy in Stourbridge locks. 

 

Thanks for for all the suggestions. 

 

 

You'll need a M6 No3 blind tap too. Or just start by drilling the hole and filling it with oil. 

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I have taps on board. I assume by blind that you mean it’s not tapered, so can tap the hole fully without protruding through. 

 

Will probably start by just drilling a 2 or 3mm hole, working in lots of Plusgas then sealing with grease. Then either seal it with a plug or tap it later. 

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16 minutes ago, MHS said:

I have taps on board. I assume by blind that you mean it’s not tapered, so can tap the hole fully without protruding through. 

 

Will probably start by just drilling a 2 or 3mm hole, working in lots of Plusgas then sealing with grease. Then either seal it with a plug or tap it later. 

I always use spin drive type fittings for this kind of job. No need to bother with tapping holes.

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I’ve just had another look at the hinges. I don’t think the barrel is thick enough to take a 6mm tap. I will stick to the smaller plugged hole. 

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Had this on my engine covers - we christened the engine bay "Igor's Crypt" because of the noise the made opening. Solved it by drilling a 3mm hole in each hinge to allow oiling. No grease nipple needed. But take care to identify the cup side of the hinge, not the pin holder side. 

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57 minutes ago, MHS said:

I have taps on board. I assume by blind that you mean it’s not tapered, so can tap the hole fully without protruding through. 

 

Yes. The term means a tap designed to cut a full thread almost to the bottom of a blind hole

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16 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Yes. The term means a tap designed to cut a full thread almost to the bottom of a blind hole

Plug Tap. But I doubt you'd get it started without using a Second first and there wouldn't be enough depth for that.

Edited by bizzard

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Who said men can’t multi-task?

 

turns out I can operate locks, post on the forum and cut my finger at the same time. Mind you, I haven’t drilled those holes yet!

62ED5B2E-3694-4FEC-B267-6F22EF32DDF6.jpeg

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After opening tube of silicone to make oil tight dam, use remaining silicone to stop loss of blood from finger.

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40 minutes ago, zenataomm said:

Creaking front locker lid!!!

 

Your boat is a right off and no mistake.

I do hope not!!

 

it may not be the worst issue in the world. If you were moored next to us, and I went into the locker for a loo cassette early in a morning, you might grumble at being woken. Creeeaaakkk. 

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