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Creaking Locker Lid


MHS

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When i got DQ the hinged lid in the stern deck covering the weedhatch was very stiff and creaked.

 

Fortunately, unlike the OP, the hinged allowed the lid to be taken off. Judicious use if the lump hammer (through a piece of wood) eventually got the lid off. I then applied Copperslip grease, which made opening the lid effortless and silent.

 

This however raised an unexpected consequence. When the boat lists in the right (wrong?) direction, the lid slips off its hinges as you open it.

 

I intend to rectify this by treating the hinge to years of neglect. ?

 

 

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So I’ve drilled four 4mm holes in the hinges. Deliberately offset from the welds to reduce any risk of weakening them. I can see the brass centre pin, so I know I’ve gone far enough. I’ve filled them with Plusgas and then 3in1, but it’s still very stiff and noisy. 

 

I’m moored in a lovely spot with lots of dog walkers and families around. I’m not planning to make lots of noise by repeated opening and closing the lid. I will wait until tomorrow or Tuesday when we will be on the Birmingham Main Line. I will report back. 

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On 23/06/2018 at 10:16, Neil Smith said:

Even if you manage to tap the hole the thread length on a grease nipple will be too long and bind on the pin.

Neil

 

In which case take the nipple out again after pumping the hinge full of grease.

 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
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It would have been better to drill the holes on top of the hinge so that the lubricant would drain from a 'well'. The grease nipples were drilled and tapped at the end of the hinge, you have got to get lubricant to the end of the hinge. The security doors I mentioned esrlier worked so well and easily they nearly caused accidents and safety notices had to be posted. 

Hope this helps, but the holes are really in the wrong place.

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11 minutes ago, LEO said:

It would have been better to drill the holes on top of the hinge so that the lubricant would drain from a 'well'. The grease nipples were drilled and tapped at the end of the hinge, you have got to get lubricant to the end of the hinge. The security doors I mentioned esrlier worked so well and easily they nearly caused accidents and safety notices had to be posted. 

Hope this helps, but the holes are really in the wrong place.

No they aren’t. Maybe the photo didn’t make it obvious. 

 

They are approx 15 degrees from vertical and 6 hours on, they still have oil sitting in them. 

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16 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

 

In which case take the nipple out again after pumping the hinge full of grease.

 

If hard against the pin it won't  let grease out the end but will ooze out round the threads.

 

Neil

Edited by Neil Smith
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On 23/06/2018 at 08:00, Mike the Boilerman said:

I'm inclined to use a 1mm width disc in my cordless grinder and cut a longitudinal slot in the top of the barrel, deep enough to penetrate to the pivot pin. Then the oil gets instant access to where it is needed, the slot can be filled with paint or sealant, and if the problem returns, is easily scraped out to apply more oil.

 

I dunno about the OP but both my hatches feel so stiff the pivot pins must be on the cusp of snapping, at which point the repair gets a lot more difficult. 

 

Ok an update. 

 

I've just done this and got an INSTANT cure. No lube required, just the outer barrel of the hinge relaxed slightly on breaking through and I can see the hinge is full of rusty fine powder. Doesn't creak any longer though and lid hinges beautifully.

 

I fully opened the lid so I could cut the grooves on the underside. Photos to follow shortly.

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17 hours ago, David Mack said:

If those are the before and after views, I'm impressed by the invisible filling of that slot!

☺️

 

 

No they are after and before.

 

I'm surprised someone as smart so you couldn't figure out which was which!

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So as per my previous post, I drilled four 4mm holes in our hinges. They are slightly different hinges to MtB’s hinges, but the problem was the same. I’ve topped them up with 3in1, and repeatedly opened the hatch. 

 

The result was not instant, but they now squeak more quietly, with no creaking. I will keep them oiled when I go back to the boat, and expect them to improve over time. 

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10 minutes ago, MHS said:

So as per my previous post, I drilled four 4mm holes in our hinges. They are slightly different hinges to MtB’s hinges, but the problem was the same. I’ve topped them up with 3in1, and repeatedly opened the hatch. 

 

The result was not instant, but they now squeak more quietly, with no creaking. I will keep them oiled when I go back to the boat, and expect them to improve over time. 

You might have more luck with something more penetrating like diesel. Then when they’re squeak-free follow up with 3in1. 

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

You might have more luck with something more penetrating like diesel. Then when they’re squeak-free follow up with 3in1. 

I did try some PlusGas to start with but wondered if it was too thin. We’ve just had 2 weeks onboard. We are back in 2 weeks or so, so might try some diesel. 

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15 hours ago, MHS said:

So as per my previous post, I drilled four 4mm holes in our hinges. They are slightly different hinges to MtB’s hinges, but the problem was the same. I’ve topped them up with 3in1, and repeatedly opened the hatch. 

 

The result was not instant, but they now squeak more quietly, with no creaking. I will keep them oiled when I go back to the boat, and expect them to improve over time. 

 

There is a problem here your solution is not addressing. 

 

When I first moved my hinges after cutting the slots, it was clear they were stuffed full of rust powder. A small quantity actually fell out. Simply adding oil to soak into the powder is not really ideal with a tight-fitting but rusty hinge pin in the first place.

 

My slots allowed the hinge pin clearance to increase a little, which I think is why my hinges worked beautifully immediately, with no noise and no resistance, all with no oil . 

 

These hinge pins would be better designed with massive clearances in my opinion, so rust inside could work it way out and oil could work its way in. 

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1 hour ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

There is a problem here your solution is not addressing. 

 

When I first moved my hinges after cutting the slots, it was clear they were stuffed full of rust powder. A small quantity actually fell out. Simply adding oil to soak into the powder is not really ideal with a tight-fitting but rusty hinge pin in the first place.

 

My slots allowed the hinge pin clearance to increase a little, which I think is why my hinges worked beautifully immediately, with no noise and no resistance, all with no oil . 

 

These hinge pins would be better designed with massive clearances in my opinion, so rust inside could work it way out and oil could work its way in. 

I tend to agree on this ----- but getting it to open is a start and with some diesel and lubrication it may flush the rust out.

 

Not sure if you saw a recent posting on the tiller removal but the poster featured a picture showing the problem. In the background were details of his weed hatch lid with grease nipples in the correct place - at the end of the hinge.......

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8 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

There is a problem here your solution is not addressing. 

 

When I first moved my hinges after cutting the slots, it was clear they were stuffed full of rust powder. A small quantity actually fell out. Simply adding oil to soak into the powder is not really ideal with a tight-fitting but rusty hinge pin in the first place.

 

My slots allowed the hinge pin clearance to increase a little, which I think is why my hinges worked beautifully immediately, with no noise and no resistance, all with no oil . 

 

These hinge pins would be better designed with massive clearances in my opinion, so rust inside could work it way out and oil could work its way in. 

How thick is the steel on your hinges? I was worried that by cutting a continuous slot, you will weaken it. Not a problem if they have decent substance. 

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7 minutes ago, MHS said:

How thick is the steel on your hinges? I was worried that by cutting a continuous slot, you will weaken it. Not a problem if they have decent substance. 

 

I'd say it is about 3mm. 

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29 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

 

 

I'd say it is about 3mm. 

Which is probably fine on a small hatch. Best to keep the slot well greased to protect the cut edges. 

If my method doesn’t improve with time, I can always add a slot too. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update on my locker hinges. After coming back to the boat after 2 weeks, our locker is now lovely and quiet. 

I’ve topped up the holes with 3in1, and will seal them with grease, or 4mm plastic plugs if I can source them. 

Very pleased with the outcome. 

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9 hours ago, MHS said:

Update on my locker hinges. After coming back to the boat after 2 weeks, our locker is now lovely and quiet. 

I’ve topped up the holes with 3in1, and will seal them with grease, or 4mm plastic plugs if I can source them. 

Very pleased with the outcome. 

 

Ah now that's encouraging. I actually have the same problem on another of my boats to a slightly lesser degree. I'll try your 'holes filled with 3-in-1 oil' method on that one.

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