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Installing a wood stove burner


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39 minutes ago, curlykale said:

I'm installing a morso and using this diagram -anyone know where to get the grey skirt bit that goes just above the roof? and is it a jubilee clip just above it?

http://www.soliftec.com/Boat Stoves 1-page.pdf 

 

many thanks!

What sort of boat are you installing it into ?

 

GRP, Wood or Steel ?

 

If its a steel narrowboat the standard method is to use a roof-collar ( a steel 'ring' that has a short spigot to mount the removable chimney onto).

If you try and install as per the illustration then you cannot remove the chimney to go under bridges.

 

The illustration would be a typical install for a GRP boat (not one on the canals).

 

Image result for narrowboat chimney collar

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cast-Iron-6-Flue-Roof-Collar-Narrowboats-Fixing-Bolts-/272443450969

 

Cast-Iron-6-034-Flue-Roof-Collar-For-Narrowboats-With-Fixing-Bolts

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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6 hours ago, curlykale said:

thanks, it's a wooden roof. i don't need a removable chimney. i just want something to form a neat seal (like this grey skirt in diagram http://www.soliftec.com/Boat Stoves 1-page.pdf) to go around the 20cm twin wall pipe thats going up through the roof. Any suggestions?

Is it for a boat, or a shed ?

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Me again- Black Country metals have a 24inch chimney- diameter at the top is 5.2” and the smallest spinning cowl seems to be 6 inch diameter (designed to fit over the top) so how would I be able to stop it falling off? Am sure this is a daft question but the two together will cost around £150 so don’t want to buy something that won’t work....

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21 minutes ago, adorabelle63 said:

Me again- Black Country metals have a 24inch chimney- diameter at the top is 5.2” and the smallest spinning cowl seems to be 6 inch diameter (designed to fit over the top) so how would I be able to stop it falling off? Am sure this is a daft question but the two together will cost around £150 so don’t want to buy something that won’t work....

If you cannot get the correct size for the chimney then, assuming the cowl doesn't slip down the chimney, drill a hole in the cowl, attach a 'dog-lead' (or piece of chain) and clip it onto somewhere 'solid'. When you drive thru' the trees it will just 'flick-off' and you can haul it back on board with the lead.

 

Alternatively, drill a hole thru' the cowl and the chimney and put a self-tapping screw in to hold the two bits together.

 

It would be better to buy a chimney & cowl that actually fit together.

 

A quick Google suggests that 'standard' NB chimneys are either 125mm or 140mm diameter at the top

5.2" = 132mm

 

Smokie Joes makes cowls for 140mm diameter so that would maybe do the job ?

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Thanks- I tried to shop at smoky joe but had difficulty as only two items come up for sale lol I shouldn’t be let out alone...

suspect there must be someone who will sell me a longer chimney AND a cowl to match but standard NB chimneys seem only to be either 12 or 18” tops. Need to do more research ?

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1 minute ago, adorabelle63 said:

NB chimneys seem only to be either 12 or 18” tops.

That's because once you add the height of the boat and the 24" chimney and another 12" for the cowl, you will struggle to get under many bridges.

 

If it's a boat that doesn't move, then you'll be OK, but if you cruise then you'll be up & down like a fiddlers elbow fitting & removing the chimney.

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Okay I get that I guess-as I am sure you can tell I haven’t yet had the experience of a bridge on a canal as am moored on a river but hope to cruise on canal system nxt year so I will need to be ready especially as I will have two chimneys by then..

tried smokie joe site again but info on the various types of cowl and chimney available is sadly lacking- it would appear they expect you to know what you want lol fair enough I guess! Thanks for you help

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1 hour ago, adorabelle63 said:

Me again- Black Country metals have a 24inch chimney- diameter at the top is 5.2” and the smallest spinning cowl seems to be 6 inch diameter (designed to fit over the top) so how would I be able to stop it falling off? Am sure this is a daft question but the two together will cost around £150 so don’t want to buy something that won’t work....

Almost everyone with a narrowboat manages perfectly well with the pretty much a standard set up - a relatively short chimney, either with or without a "coolie hat". I've never seen a moving narrowboat with a spinning cowl. Its easy enough to fit a longer chimney (which will produce more draw) of the same type to use whilst you are ashore. Afterwards you could use it as a "harbour chimney" if you're moored somewhere the short "cruising chimney" struggles.   Before you spend lots of money on an unconventional chimney, are you sure the tried and tested set up won't work for you?

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Hello and thank you to all of you for your help. I've had a lot of distractions since my original post so I have not made any progress with this but am looking to crack on with it now. I have a roof collar already in place on a steel Springer narrowboat. The internal diameter of the collar is 120mm and the flue diameter is 80mm. By my understanding that means a 20mm heat proof rope will fit snugly into the gap. As for the sealant, would it be applied as an adhesive, to bond flue and rope at all points of contact? Or would I be better fitting the rope and then plugging from above and below? I made a quick video to show measurements of relevant diameters in case it helps

 

 

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22 minutes ago, C.Mack said:

would I be better fitting the rope and then plugging from above and below?

Yes. The flue must be able to move up and down slightly as it expands and contracts, otherwise it risks cracking the stove top plate. 

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21 hours ago, WotEver said:

Yes. The flue must be able to move up and down slightly as it expands and contracts, otherwise it risks cracking the stove top plate. 

Brilliant, thank you. I will fit one of those square plates with a hole for the flue to patch up the ceiling too, I think. Just for aesthetics. Thank you again.

Edited by C.Mack
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4 hours ago, curlykale said:

what's the closest distance i can put the stove away from the fireboard?

 

From memory 300mm

 

Guidance

 

Heat PROTECTION PANELS Stoves and uninsulated flue pipes can easily get hot enough to set fire to paint, wood or other combustibles a distance away. A single fireproof panel fastened straight to a wall is no use – heat can pass straight through it. One way of making a good protection panel is to have: a 10mm air gap (supported on offcuts), then 25mm thick calcium silicate board (which can be tiled) then at least a 45mm gap to the stove body, all extending at least 200mm above the stove. (7) (This construction can be used as the hearth underneath a stove with legs, if topped by a 15mm cement-board panel.)
 

Boat Stoves Fitting Guidance.pdf

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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  • 1 year later...

I am none too happy with stove flue installation. It easily gets too hot on ply deckhead.

I have removed paint from a 1 inch diam, 1mm thick flat metal ring [not the standard thing] where flue meets ply deckhead.

This weekend I wanted to :

Remove the soft black sealant and the fire cement which I can see round the top of the flue from inside the boat.

Dig out the roof insulation and insert fibreglass rope [I have only enough to girth the single walled flue three times. I can get f/glass exhaust wrap.

then what should I do?.... considering calcium silicate board, or fire resistant material  

I have some heavy foil tape,. I can get red high temp silcon [what does it do?]

if I insulate top 18" of flue, will this do any good?

Should I replace the ply to 300mm from flue, with fireboard?

Edited by LadyG
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27 minutes ago, WotEver said:

A picture or two would help explain the situation 

I have a camera and a smart phone, but not sure how to load photos, I'll try ....

What about this stuff wrapped round the flue, as best and as high as I can? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-15m-High-Heat-Insulation-Fiberglass-Wrap-Exhaust-Header-Pipe-Tape-Cloth/362807071005?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D53c5675d2d1a4f18916475bf4251389c%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D362807071005%26itm%3D362807071005%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A1f4d7b6e-10e8-11ea-bd15-74dbd180e886|parentrq%3Aabc6f50616e0a688a3d4ded4ffe4c312|iid%3A1

the deckhead or ceiling is ply, and as such must be prone to ignition

Edited by LadyG
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4 minutes ago, LadyG said:

What about this stuff...

You really shouldn’t need it.
 

Roof lining cut about 50mm away from the flue in a circle, hi-temp silicone between flue and chimney collar above, circular metal trim piece affixed to roof lining to cover the gap. Something like this:

https://www.jonesboatchandlery.co.uk/inner-flue-trim-for-narrowboat-chimney

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48 minutes ago, WotEver said:

You really shouldn’t need it.
 

Roof lining cut about 50mm away from the flue in a circle, hi-temp silicone between flue and chimney collar above, circular metal trim piece affixed to roof lining to cover the gap. Something like this:

https://www.jonesboatchandlery.co.uk/inner-flue-trim-for-narrowboat-chimney

The stove is in situ so I have to work with what I have, I had a poke around , and it seems to have fire cement and black soft sqidgy stuff rather than red high temp silicon, I am not sure that silicon helps, we are talking about the gap twixt flue and the roof insulation and also where the metal ring [a poor insulator] is fitted on to the ply deckhead [perhaps on to roof battens] with crosshead screws [usually driven at max torque in to anything available.

The plan must be to reduce flue temperature where it meets the ceiling.

There is a proper collar and double walled chimney.

Edited by LadyG
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