Broken down, is it the fuel pump /lift pump

[Karen Lea Rainey]

I'm  pleased as punch, because of all of your comments.

After work today nipped in to an autospare store for a 296 filter but they didn't have one till tomorrow. Phuugh I thought.

Went to to Euro car parts who have one on their website  a delphi 296, asked for it but they had to substitute it for a Mann P197, its a good job i took the old one with me for comparison.

Anyway put the new filter on, bled the filter, cav pump and loosened 3 injector unions.

Within about 3 or 4 turns of the key it was firing up.

Tighten all unions and it has ran for 2+ hours.

I've managed to get the boat almost back to its mooring due only to the fact that my car was now over 4 miles away from me and I can get a lift tomorrow for the last mile. So be it.

I honestly had no idea that the simple fuel filter could so much concern / worry that it's something  of a bigger problem.

£2.96  For the filter, fitted inside 15 mins and bled in 5 minutes more.

Thank you all for your ideas.

I have saved the lift pump cleaning filter / gauze ! Until I get back to my mooring where I've more tools and easy access to supply shops etc.

Following which should I be looking at fuel cleaning products or the so called polishing!

 

Thanks again keith

Edited June 21, 2018 by Karen Lea Rainey

[Tony Brooks]

You really should be looking to fit a primary agglomerator or sedimentor as said above.

 

Personally I would get a number of empty 4 or 6 pint milk cartons and a length of 1/2" clear plastic hose with a length of copper pipe stuck in one end. Coper pipe into tank. milk cartons on base plate with caps off and start a syphon from the bottom of the tank into the milk cartons. The clear pipe will allow you to see what you are sucking up. Keep moving the pipe over the bottom of the tank. You may well find you pull a load of water then discoloured fuel out with or without bits in it. If/when you get to  nice clear red fuel stop, add  Marine 16 complete to tank and repeat at least every spring.

 

If you can't get to clear fuel then by all means consider fuel polishing or pumping all the fuel out and refilling wit new fuel plus Marine 16 Shock Treatment (the little bottle). After that use Marine 16 complete. The choice is yours but from the look of that filter I think you will get to clear fuel.

 

 

[Boater Sam]

Sound advice all round. I use a wet n' dry vac with a length of 15mm copper pipe in the end of the hose to suck the dregs out of the bottom corners of my tank, carefully.

 

Please stop using Easy Start, its acetone and ruins engines.

[BruceinSanity]

9 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

You really should be looking to fit a primary agglomerator or sedimentor as said above.

 

I'm very pleased with my FuelGuard, transparent bowl so you can see state of the fuel every time you lift the engine boards and a sensor/warning buzzer if water starts accumulating in the bottom of the bowl.

 

Doesnt remove the need to clean the bottom of the tank, though.

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, BruceinSanity said:

I'm very pleased with my FuelGuard, transparent bowl so you can see state of the fuel every time you lift the engine boards and a sensor/warning buzzer if water starts accumulating in the bottom of the bowl.

 

Doesnt remove the need to clean the bottom of the tank, though.

I think that you can or could get a water sensor bowl for the CAV agglmerator/sedimentor range. I suspect a sedimentor can be had for about half the Fuelguard price but without the marketing budget.

 

To the OP - if your fuel filler is the stupid male cap into a female threaded pipe please change the O ring, treat with suitable grease (depends upon the O ring materiel) a, keep tight, and change the ring every year or so. Although very popular amongst the boat building fraternity they do let water into the tank. Much better the less aesthetic male threaded pipe upstand with a BSP cap on the end.

Edited June 22, 2018 by Tony Brooks

[Nut]

problem solved

Edited June 22, 2018 by Nut

[RLWP]

Funny things, filters. I've been working on an open boat with a Lister TS2 in it. Judging by the state of the primary filter (fully of slimy crud) and the fact that the filter on the engine was still sprayed green, this engine has never had a filter change

 

In 18 years

 

Richard

[ditchcrawler]

3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

I think that you can or could get a water sensor bowl for the CAV agglmerator/sedimentor range. I suspect a sedimentor can be had for about half the Fuelguard price but without the marketing budget.

 

To the OP - if your fuel filler is the stupid male cap into a female threaded pipe please change the O ring, treat with suitable grease (depends upon the O ring materiel) a, keep tight, and change the ring every year or so. Although very popular amongst the boat building fraternity they do let water into the tank. Much better the less aesthetic male threaded pipe upstand with a BSP cap on the end.

Mine has a flat washer and it needs changing probably every 3rd fill because it grows and is a bugger to get in. https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1435/product/ad-092.aspx

 

Edited June 22, 2018 by ditchcrawler

[Ian F B]

I had the same problem,but my tank has a fuel take off at the top so draining the tank from the "bottom" was not possible.

The problem was solved by using a sump draining pump,silverline do one for £25.00,the amount of crud was unbelievable and filled 2 large plastic milk "bottles".

Must remember to top up with fuel before the winter lay up!

Cheers.

[Guest]

On 22/06/2018 at 07:27, Tony Brooks said:

I think that you can or could get a water sensor bowl for the CAV agglmerator/sedimentor range. I suspect a sedimentor can be had for about half the Fuelguard price but without the marketing budget.

 

To the OP - if your fuel filler is the stupid male cap into a female threaded pipe please change the O ring, treat with suitable grease (depends upon the O ring materiel) a, keep tight, and change the ring every year or so. Although very popular amongst the boat building fraternity they do let water into the tank. Much better the less aesthetic male threaded pipe upstand with a BSP cap on the end.

These type of filler caps really are the pits. I agree that the old type BSP pipe and cap is far better and wish I had gone for same when shell was new.
I was ridiculed several times for saying so on this forum, but I change that o ring at least twice a year. 50p a go last time I bought a stock, though clearly a waste of money according to the critics  100 quid or so for a tank of diesl, 50p for an o ring, a quid for a shot of anti bug. It's a no brainer.

Edited to add I also keep a large plastic sheet (side out of milk jug) over the filler cap in wetter winter months. This is cable tied to the padlock. Simply deflects water off the filler cap.

Edited July 23, 2018 by Guest

[bizzard]

And a thing to remember. After sucking out muck from the fuel tank and whatnot you will have stirred up a cloud of muck which will have mixed and be held in suspension with the existing fuel, and with tipping in fresh fuel.  Ideally I wouldn't attempt to start the engine for at least a couple of days allowing any disturbed muck thats left to re-settle on the tanks bottom, ''and there will be''.  To be honest its wise to sit tight and drink cups of tea for an hour or two even after just a normal fuel top up, before re starting the engine, unless filled very slowly.   Pour some mucky diesel into a glass jar and see how long it takes the murkyness to clear to leave the muck at the bottom and leaving ckean translucent fuel on top, ''about 3 days to a week''.

Edited July 23, 2018 by bizzard