Lister engineer required

[RLWP]

1 hour ago, Jon57 said:

The pump seems fine to me. The bottom of the header tank is 14 inches above the top of the engine. And the level of water in the tank is another 5 inches @ the moment, no smell of diesel, all the air expelled. Does the lever on the top of the water pump have to be in cool for river work or not. Engine never gets above 80 degree when warm with the lever in any position?. Thanks

It needs to be set to pass water through the block, not around the bypass. What I can't remember is what the labels on the valve mean, I need to find a picture

[RLWP]

OK, this:

 

 

From memory, in this image the valve is set to bypass. It should be set parallel to the flywheel to cool the engine

 

Richard

[Jon57]

That's what I thought. The valve only moves a small distance from warm to cool position. Was set on warm originally. Proberly for canal use . How much water should be in the header tank leaving room for expansion. Thanks 

[RLWP]

2 minutes ago, Jon57 said:

That's what I thought. The valve only moves a small distance from warm to cool position. Was set on warm originally. Proberly for canal use . How much water should be in the header tank leaving room for expansion. Thanks 

It should rotate through 90 degrees

 

No idea on the header tank - I would ask the owner. Plus, I usually end up overfilling them...

 

Richard

[Jon57]

The valve has got brass stops on the casting only allowing small movement from warm to cool. So will try it on cool later on and see if it makes any difference. Thanks

[RLWP]

6 minutes ago, Jon57 said:

The valve has got brass stops on the casting only allowing small movement from warm to cool. So will try it on cool later on and see if it makes any difference. Thanks

I'd like to see a picture of the valve if possible

[Jon57]

Will do when back at the boat. Thanks 

[Jon57]

Hi here are some pictures of the control valve

[RLWP]

 

Am I seeing two steel stops? Otherwise, the valve should turn through 90 degrees with one stop reaching either end of that cut out

[Jon57]

The round stops are cast into the body of the turning valve. The slots are on the main body where the cool and warm plate is attached. thanks

[Jon57]

Ordered a test kit from eBay. Will wait till then to see where I go from there. Thanks for your help so far ,and I will update you when I get the test kit . Cheers

[monkeyhanger]

On 21/06/2018 at 06:44, Jon57 said:

The pump seems fine to me. The bottom of the header tank is 14 inches above the top of the engine. And the level of water in the tank is another 5 inches @ the moment, no smell of diesel, all the air expelled. Does the lever on the top of the water pump have to be in cool for river work or not. Engine never gets above 80 degree when warm with the lever in any position?. Thanks

I would have thought that, if you have a thermostat fitted, the engine temp control lever should be in the maximum open position. The thermostat will then regulate the temperature for you. That's what happens on my JP anyway. If you are restricting the water flow with the temperature control valve AND a thermostat, I would think that you would stand a good chance of overheating your engine and causing the symptoms you describe.

[BWM]

On 21/06/2018 at 08:16, RLWP said:

OK, this:

 

 

From memory, in this image the valve is set to bypass. It should be set parallel to the flywheel to cool the engine

 

Richard

Sorry for drifting off topic, but do you have one of the handles available? Mine is missing and makes operating the valve near impossible. 

[Jon57]

Just a update . Cylinder head ok . Lots of air getting into skin cooling tank. Having to bleed it after every cruise. Lots of brown gunge came out. Proberly needs a good flush out. Engine normally runs ok at 75 degrees all day. But if worked a little hard for 15 to 20 minutes temp goes up to 80 degrees. Then starts to boil over. Could the water pump be faulty ( it's the original piston type) any way to check if it's working as should be. Seems to use a lot of grease. Could this be the cause of the brown gunge coming out of the skin tank when bled. Thanks

[steamraiser2]

75 to 80 degrees are right for a JP so nothing to worry about there. That is the temperature (75c) of the thermostats we fit in every JP we restore. It certainly sounds like you need to have the engine and skin tank properly flushed out. A lot of the engines we restore are found to have a large build up of sediment around the liners upon strip down. Not unusual to find virtual concretion two or three inches deep in the water spaces, especially if the engine has ever been raw water cooled. Taking the block drain valve out and poking around in the water space can indicate how bad it is. A peer round with an endoscope is better.

All that said I would want to take a good look at the water pump too. They are not the most reliable of pumps in their old age and some of your symptoms could be down to minimal pump output.

Good to know that the head is not cracked

[RLWP]

1 minute ago, steamraiser2 said:

Taking the block drain valve out and poking around in the water space can indicate how bad it is

Last JP I did, the tap was full of mud. With the liners out and a LOT of silt removed I still couldn't find the block outlet from the inside. It had scaled over, I had to break through a thick crust to get to the outlet. I was beginning to wonder if the block had been patched with concrete

 

These engines are all getting on a bit and most had very little maintenance for most of their life

 

Can you help BWM with his handle? I haven't got one

 

Richard

[BWM]

1 hour ago, Jon57 said:

Just a update . Cylinder head ok . Lots of air getting into skin cooling tank. Having to bleed it after every cruise. Lots of brown gunge came out. Proberly needs a good flush out. Engine normally runs ok at 75 degrees all day. But if worked a little hard for 15 to 20 minutes temp goes up to 80 degrees. Then starts to boil over. Could the water pump be faulty ( it's the original piston type) any way to check if it's working as should be. Seems to use a lot of grease. Could this be the cause of the brown gunge coming out of the skin tank when bled. Thanks

I only tend to have trouble with air building up when the strainer is blocked (mine is raw water cooled), which obviously reduces pump output. I'd definitely check the pump over, a failed non return valve or damaged leather seal will reduce flow considerably. 

The pump is fairly basic to strip down, probably best to loosen the round brass covers at the base of the pump with the appropriate Tommy bar before you remove the pump as they can be quite tight.

Edited June 26, 2018 by BWM

[steamraiser2]

12 hours ago, RLWP said:

Last JP I did, the tap was full of mud. With the liners out and a LOT of silt removed I still couldn't find the block outlet from the inside. It had scaled over, I had to break through a thick crust to get to the outlet. I was beginning to wonder if the block had been patched with concrete

 

These engines are all getting on a bit and most had very little maintenance for most of their life

 

Can you help BWM with his handle? I haven't got one

 

Richard

We did one some years ago that was from a sea going boat and the spaces were very concreted. I had to chisel it out. When I did I found that the bottom land of the water jacket was rotted away and only the concretion had made it watertight. Another one bites the dust! ?

 

Maybe a handle in the warehouse. If I find one I'll drop him a PM

[BWM]

On 27/06/2018 at 08:37, steamraiser2 said:

We did one some years ago that was from a sea going boat and the spaces were very concreted. I had to chisel it out. When I did I found that the bottom land of the water jacket was rotted away and only the concretion had made it watertight. Another one bites the dust! ?

 

Maybe a handle in the warehouse. If I find one I'll drop him a PM

Thanks for having a look, i've got my fingers crossed! Look forward to your PM.

[Capella247]

Hi all,  

I am also looking for a Lister engineer / mechanic to service my JP3 (industrial type) on my boat. The boat is based at Claverton near Bath.  Its running ok,   Ideally I'd like set up to be checked over (it does seem to speed up and slow down),  oil changed and coolant changed.  I'd also like to be talked through how to do the routine servicing for next time.  Can anyone recommend someone who maybe willing to travel to the boat?

Cheers Tom