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Lister stw3 overheating?


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Hi all

 

Since I bought the boat 1.5 years ago, it's always got very hot whilst under strain. Coolant steam comes out expansion tank valve and occasionally squirts out. It's keep cooled and checked impeller before and all seems ok? Do they just get very hot or there likely to be a fault?

 

Thanks

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There are no visible leaks in engine bay. I don't really know how to check coolant level besides removing filer tap on top of expansion tank and peering down there? It's easy to start. The temp gauge does not work. I haven't removed oil filter yet. 

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16 minutes ago, tstore said:

There are no visible leaks in engine bay. I don't really know how to check coolant level besides removing filer tap on top of expansion tank and peering down there? It's easy to start. The temp gauge does not work. I haven't removed oil filter yet. 

I think that if you just remove the OIL FILLER cap (rather than the oil FILTER)  look down the filler hole, look at the underside of the cap - if it looks like creamy white mayonnaise you have a head gasket (or worse) problem, if its nice and black and 'oil-like' then that's not the problem.

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You say overheats under strain, explain strain, are you expecting too much from your engine and thrashing it? 

If it is an ongoing issue (especially if river cruising a lot) think about adding another skin tank.

 

First item is to get the temp gauge working, either sensor or gauge may be faulty, replace in that order.

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Boater Sam said:

Is the keel tank big enough area wise? You say keel tank, is it? or is it a skin tank on the side? more usual. If its run 18 months like this and is ok until stressed, it is unlikely to be a head gasket failure.

I agree on both counts, Head gasket unlikely, cooling system underspecified very likely.

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15 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I agree on both counts, Head gasket unlikely, cooling system underspecified very likely.

Head gasket very unlikely, the heads just don't work that way

 

I'd like to know - how much water are you putting into the reservoir? If you overfill it, the engine will spit out the excess

 

Fix the temperature gauge before assuming ti is overheating. At least you'll know the temperature

 

Richard

 

MORE: Unless you are unfortunate enough to have cracked a head

Edited by RLWP
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Getting temp sensor and gauge looked at this pm. No sign of any other problems, start easy, does not lose oil, oil filler cap has no mayonnaise looking residue. Hopefully the mechanic attending can advise me on what the problem is and I can put all the faults I inherited behind me!

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4 hours ago, tstore said:

Getting temp sensor and gauge looked at this pm. No sign of any other problems, start easy, does not lose oil, oil filler cap has no mayonnaise looking residue. Hopefully the mechanic attending can advise me on what the problem is and I can put all the faults I inherited behind me!

Lets hope he doesn't say you need a new engine

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Hi all

 

Had new sensor and temp gauge fitted and the engine ran for about an hour at about 2500 revs, got up 90 degrees. Left Aldridge marina today after work  (hooray and good riddance, not more to say) and traveled 4.5 miles, didn't go over 2500 revs but she did get close to 100 degrees but did not boil like before with coolant squirting out expansion, knocked her down at 100 and she cooled and seems steady at around 90. Does this sound normal. at an average of 2000 revs it makes very slow going indeed as took me almost 4 hours to do 4.5 miles and two locks solo?

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13 minutes ago, tstore said:

4.5cm thick, 44.5cm height and 153cm length

That only works out at about 7.5 square feet when you probably need nearer 11, but tony will be able to give you a more accurate calc, if you fit a larger prop to keep the revs down it will help, again there is a calc for that aswell.

Neil

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The calculation is about 1 sq ft per4 hp on a single face, ignore the sides. Also be aware a heavey build p of blacking on the outside of the hull can make the cooling worse.

 

I suspect fitting a larger prop will not help, in fact if the slower speed reduces the cooling water flow it could make the situation worse. To drive the boat a any given speed will require a given amount of power, pretty much intendant of engine speed. There will be a minor difference because of the way efficiency alters over teh speed range but probably not enough to make a significant difference.

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16 minutes ago, tstore said:

Ok thanks looks like I'm stuck as anything would need to be ordered now. Oh well

It may be worth ordering a 'few'. It is is a service item that should be replaced annually.

 

If you are laying-up the boat for any lengthy period of time, then it is good practice to remove it and give it a rub over with Vaseline (or similar) or store it in a jar of vegetable cooking oil. Remember to replace it prior to starting the engine.

 

Lack of use causes the rubber at the end of the vanes to 'dry-weld' themselves to the inside of the pump housing, as soon as you start the engine the rotation then rips of the vanes of the impellor, leaving you with a useless pump.

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2 hours ago, tstore said:

Ok thanks looks like I'm stuck as anything would need to be ordered now. Oh well

Anything here any good https://www.asap-supplies.com/brands/jabsco   and this https://www.asap-supplies.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=jabsco+22830-2201

Edited by ditchcrawler
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