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Troubleshooting Solar Panel


blythecooper

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Just now, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

There is no need to disconnect anything to do the first step of checking to see if the panel is working. 

 

Just measure the voltage across the panel terminals and post the result here.

I wasn't suggesting there was a need to disconnect it.

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2 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I wasn't suggesting there was a need to disconnect it.

 

Yes you were! Well indirectly anyway. You said don't do it in the sun, wait until dark. Post 24 IIRC

 

Oops no, it was Post 21.

 

19 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I wouldn't disconnect the panel whilst charging in full sunlight. Cover it first as Tony suggests, or wait until its dark.

 

:P

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16 minutes ago, Lily Rose said:

I didn't realise that could cause a problem but I'm happy to be corrected.

 

As it happens I did mine on a relatively gloomy February day so I doubt there was much coming through to start with.

I suspect a single low voltage panel will pose little threat. A larger array however can be 100's of volts. I have three 250W panels in series, so prefer not to just unplug them.

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14 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I suspect a single low voltage panel will pose little threat. A larger array however can be 100's of volts. I have three 250W panels in series, so prefer not to just unplug them.

Only 200 in my case (though I wish I'd gone for more) but probably only getting 20 or 30 on the day I changed the batteries.

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I have fitted one of these circuit breakers between the panels and the controller... not for the circuit breaking capability, but as a simple switch:

 

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/waterproof-switchable-surface-mounted-circuit-breakers.html

 

Makes disconnection much easier than fitting a fuse.

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there is some misinformation on this thread.

 

victron mppt controller has an auto style blade fuse that is easily accessible.   

 

AFAIK the only reason to connect the batteries before connecting to the panels is to inform the controller of the battery voltage (normally 12v or 24v). .....  even that is not infallible - I connected everything in the correct order and the controller was convinced it should be set to 24v.  I had to lay out additional money to get the dongle thingy so I could intervene and set the controller from my computer.

 

 

Edited by Murflynn
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On 15/05/2018 at 20:19, blythecooper said:

Help please! After 3 weeks of living on the boat, I have only JUST realised my solar setup is not working. And I am at a total loss as to how to even begin to start troubleshooting it. I've got a Victron MPPT controller and a 250w solar panel. Where do I start? If anybody has the patience to talk a complete newbie through understanding solar setups and troubleshooting problems, I would massively appreciate it.

You don't say which model of Victron MPPT controller you have. The manual can be downloaded from the Victron web site, both current and obselete models of their kit. This would be a useful thing to do. Will tell you which wires are which and any special precautions required when disconnecting. Same goes for any other bits of Victron equjpment you have.

 

Jen

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1 hour ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

You don't say which model of Victron MPPT controller you have. The manual can be downloaded from the Victron web site, both current and obselete models of their kit. This would be a useful thing to do. Will tell you which wires are which and any special precautions required when disconnecting. Same goes for any other bits of Victron equjpment you have.

 

Jen

 

 

Good point. Identifying the Victron MPPT would go a long way to figuring out what is wrong. The solar panel itself is highly UNlikely to be at fault, even though I am advising testing it first. This is really to positively rule it out before moving on to the more likely stuff. 

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17 hours ago, Lily Rose said:

Only 200 in my case (though I wish I'd gone for more) but probably only getting 20 or 30 on the day I changed the batteries.

I assume you are referring to watts.    Regardless of the power (watts) output, a typical solar panel will generate about 19v, so more than, say, 3 panels wired in series is going to give you a significant shock-

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4 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

I assume you are referring to watts.    Regardless of the power (watts) output, a typical solar panel will generate about 19v, so more than, say, 3 panels wired in series is going to give you a significant shock-

Yes, 2 * 100 watts.

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4 hours ago, blythecooper said:

Can someone tell me where I put the damn proddy things please? Tried it on the metal bits where the leads enter the controller, with no reading on multimeter.

20180517_090348.jpg

 

 

 

as noted earlier, none of the LEDs are illuminated which implies (1) not connected to battery and no input from solar panels, OR (2) the unit is knackered.   

try voltmeter setting on the multimeter between the 2 battery terminals, and between the 2 PV terminals and let us know if there is anything.

if there is nothing then, as suggested before, check every fuse and the continuity of all the cable, to and from the battery and solar panels (solar panels are known as PV for photo-voltaic array).

my flexible panels each have a junction box which has a lid that can be prised off with a screwdriver, exposing 2 terminals that connect to the cables.  check volts between the terminals which are the + and - ends of the panel.

GOOD LUCK !

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5 hours ago, blythecooper said:

Can someone tell me where I put the damn proddy things please? Tried it on the metal bits where the leads enter the controller, with no reading on multimeter.

 

In which case its beginning to look as though your panel is goosed. But first things first, have you set your multimeter to the correct range? 200v DC or at a pinch 20v DC?. DO You know which symbol means DC and which means AC? DC is two parallel lines, one dotted, AC is a wavy line. 

 

Next, test your meter is working by checking say the battery voltage. It should show 12v or thereabouts. If it does, then we know the meter is set up correctly and working.

 

Now in your first photo, see the row of 4 shiny silver screws on the face of the controller, near the bottom edge? The left had two of those is the pair of solar panel lead connections. Put the damn proddy things one on each. It doesn't matter which way around. You should get a voltage reading significantly higher than the battery reading this afternoon in the sun. Anything between 16v and 30v.

 

If you are getting zero, power from the panel isn't arriving at the controller. Turn the panel over and lever the lid off the connection box. Now measure the volts on the two teminals inside with the panel say upright and facing the sun. If no voltage there, the panel is goosed. If there IS voltage there, the wires are goosed (technical term). 

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49 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

In which case its beginning to look as though your panel is goosed. But first things first, have you set your multimeter to the correct range? 200v DC or at a pinch 20v DC?. DO You know which symbol means DC and which means AC? DC is two parallel lines, one dotted, AC is a wavy line. 

 

Next, test your meter is working by checking say the battery voltage. It should show 12v or thereabouts. If it does, then we know the meter is set up correctly and working.

 

Now in your first photo, see the row of 4 shiny silver screws on the face of the controller, near the bottom edge? The left had two of those is the pair of solar panel lead connections. Put the damn proddy things one on each. It doesn't matter which way around. You should get a voltage reading significantly higher than the battery reading this afternoon in the sun. Anything between 16v and 30v.

 

If you are getting zero, power from the panel isn't arriving at the controller. Turn the panel over and lever the lid off the connection box. Now measure the volts on the two teminals inside with the panel say upright and facing the sun. If no voltage there, the panel is goosed. If there IS voltage there, the wires are goosed (technical term). 

Ok, I'm getting a reading of 12.8 for the lefthand two circles- they are labelled batteries. The right hand two are labelled PV and are giving me a reading of 0.

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7 hours ago, blythecooper said:

Can someone tell me where I put the damn proddy things please? Tried it on the metal bits where the leads enter the controller, with no reading on multimeter.

20180517_090348.jpg

20180517_090405.jpg

20180517_090802.jpg

20180517_090823.jpg

It looks like the wire connections have been sealed with potting compound inside the terminal box on the back of the panel, so you can't easily measure voltage there. In the third picture in the quoted post above, there are black connectors in the leads going to the panel within about a foot of the panel frame. These look like standard solar connectors and can be dismantled. There are clips you push together to unlatch them. Take them apart and poke your multimeter probes in the ends of the two going to the panel and measure the voltage with the panel in daylight. If you are not gettiñg a voltage there, then I am afraid the panel is likely borked. As before, make sure the meter is on the correct range, DC volts up to 200V. Have a good poke around with the proddy things to ensure you have a decent connection. If there is a voltage here, then the problem most likely is in the wiring and any fuses, switches, connectors between there and the Victron controller.

 

Jen

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8 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

It looks like the wire connections have been sealed with potting compound inside the terminal box on the back of the panel, so you can't easily measure voltage there. In the third picture in the quoted post above, there are black connectors in the leads going to the panel within about a foot of the panel frame. These look like standard solar connectors and can be dismantled. There are clips you push together to unlatch them. Take them apart and poke your multimeter probes in the ends of the two going to the panel and measure the voltage with the panel in daylight. If you are not gettiñg a voltage there, then I am afraid the panel is likely borked. As before, make sure the meter is on the correct range, DC volts up to 200V. Have a good poke around with the proddy things to ensure you have a decent connection. If there is a voltage here, then the problem most likely is in the wiring and any fuses, switches, connectors between there and the Victron controller.

 

Jen

Thanks Jen.. Do I have to cover the panel before disconnecting? I'm afraid to do it wrong, although I think I've already disconnected them without covering, soo...

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