BMC 1.8 dipstick.

[sparrowcycles]

Hello all, I hope it's been as sunny for you as it has been in the Midlands. 

 

So.. I have bought a boat with a slightly ill 1.8 BMC, it's coming together but for some reason it didn't have a dipstick when I bought it (just a snapped off pencil down the dipstick tube) I am going to fabricate my own but was hoping that a kind soul on the forums might help by measuring the complete length of theirs from the stop lip on the 'bung' (ie the length that sits inside the tube) and also the distance from the bottom to the high/low markers.

 

Such a simple thing a dipstick but it has to be right! 

 

All the best

 

Steve

[RLWP]

I may have one from half a 1.8 I bought

[sparrowcycles]

1 hour ago, RLWP said:

I may have one from half a 1.8 I bought

Amazing, would it be ok to get the measurements from you? Or if you don't need the actual dipstick I could buy it from you ? 

 

Thanks again

 

[bizzard]

You can make your own. I've made a few like this.  Drain the oil out completely. Refill with the correct amount, in your case around 7 1/2 to 8 pints. A length of 1/8'' welding rod to make a new one and a stop collar, I use Meccano collars or small Meccano pulley. Slide the collar onto the rod.  Pop the rod into the tube until it hits the sump, pull it up about an inch and tighten the collar, pull it out, wipe it and reinsert. Pull out and you now have the FULL level. Mark it with a stroke or two with a junior hacksaw. Mark it again about 1/2'' lower down for a LOW mark.  Bend the top of the rod into a finger loop or L.  A small O ring can be sild up under the collar.  Voila, one dipstick.

[Tony Brooks]

Are we sure all 1.8s use the same sump and dipstick location?

[Boater Sam]

They do, but the tube it fits in is a knock in fit in the block and many get lost and replaced with a wrong length tube.

Using the sump capacity on an oil change is an OK way to establish the level but only if there is not a heat exchanger on the engine ( not talking about the gearbox heat exchanger ) and the cross over hose from one side of the engine to the other is as original.

From memory I thing the minimum mark is about 3 and a half litres if I can refer to it that way.

The original dipstick does not touch the bottom of the sump. There is a drawing of the engine assembled in the workshop manual which is a scale drawing and may be of use to you. The manual is available to download on the web.

[sparrowcycles]

6 hours ago, bizzard said:

You can make your own. I've made a few like this.  Drain the oil out completely. Refill with the correct amount, in your case around 7 1/2 to 8 pints. A length of 1/8'' welding rod to make a new one and a stop collar, I use Meccano collars or small Meccano pulley. Slide the collar onto the rod.  Pop the rod into the tube until it hits the sump, pull it up about an inch and tighten the collar, pull it out, wipe it and reinsert. Pull out and you now have the FULL level. Mark it with a stroke or two with a junior hacksaw. Mark it again about 1/2'' lower down for a LOW mark.  Bend the top of the rod into a finger loop or L.  A small O ring can be sild up under the collar.  Voila, one dipstick.

Thanks that's a good way to at least have an idea of what's going on, if I can't find the exact measurements I will try that way. 

The engine has an oil cooler (not the gearbox one) so there may well be extra capacity. 

[sultan derocco]

Don't use a dipstick that rests on the bottom of the sump.  Over a period of time, vibration will cause it to wear a neat round hole in the sump and let the oil drain out. 

Don't ask me know I know this!

[bizzard]

3 hours ago, sparrowcycles said:

Thanks that's a good way to at least have an idea of what's going on, if I can't find the exact measurements I will try that way. 

The engine has an oil cooler (not the gearbox one) so there may well be extra capacity. 

If you put about 7 1/2 pints in or whatever your manual says, dip it and make a very light mark on the stick. Then start up to circulate the oil around the cooler, switch off and re dip it, top up the oil to the mark and rmark with a heavier permanent high mark.

[RLWP]

22 hours ago, sparrowcycles said:

 Or if you don't need the actual dipstick I could buy it from you ? 

 

Thanks again

 

If I have one, yes

[sparrowcycles]

1 hour ago, RLWP said:

If I have one, yes

Great, I will hold out for that and if you don't have one I will make one myself. Thanks again.. s

[RLWP]

5 minutes ago, sparrowcycles said:

Great, I will hold out for that and if you don't have one I will make one myself. Thanks again.. s

I'm wondering if I have a parts list around for the 1.8 diesel, 1.5 diesel and 1.8 petrol. I wouldn't be in the least surprised to find Longbridge used the same dipstick for all three

 

Richard

[Richard T]

I think that there may be two lengths of dipsticks one for British made one for Turkish. I broke the top off and bought a new one from Calcutt but the markings were different so I made a new top for the broken one. We have a Calcutt marinized engine. I will happily measure ours for you 

[RLWP]

9 minutes ago, Richard T said:

I think that there may be two lengths of dipsticks one for British made one for Turkish. I broke the top off and bought a new one from Calcutt but the markings were different so I made a new top for the broken one. We have a Calcutt marinized engine. I will happily measure ours for you 

Do that, it will confirm if what I have will work - including MGB dipsticks

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

As an aside:

I’ve got the original Thorneycroft manual for my 1800bmc engine (from when it was marinised) and I’m sure it states you fix your engine in place, fill with the correct amount of oil and then put your markings on the dip stick. I suppose this allows for the trim of the boat. 

 

So perhaps readings will vary a fraction on each boat? And as Bizzard says best mark up your own?

 

[sparrowcycles]

14 hours ago, Richard T said:

I think that there may be two lengths of dipsticks one for British made one for Turkish. I broke the top off and bought a new one from Calcutt but the markings were different so I made a new top for the broken one. We have a Calcutt marinized engine. I will happily measure ours for you 

Thanks Richard t that would be an amazing help. If you are happy to measure yours I will make my own.

[Richard T]

On 06/05/2018 at 17:40, Richard T said:

I think that there may be two lengths of dipsticks one for British made one for Turkish. I broke the top off and bought a new one from Calcutt but the markings were different so I made a new top for the broken one. We have a Calcutt marinized engine. I will happily measure ours for you 

I have now been to our boat and checked the dipsticks. I was mistaken they are identical in length and markings which are as follows:

Dimension from top of tube to maximum mark 510mm

Dimension from top of tube to minimum mark 522mm

I hope that this helps. From these dims you should be able to make a dipstick - try not to overfill the engine.

If the engine is linked to a PRM hydraulic gearbox e.g. Delta, 150, 160, 260 it is difficult to check the oil level. I have made a wooden dipstick which is easier to use.

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

46 minutes ago, Richard T said:

I have now been to our boat and checked the dipsticks. I was mistaken they are identical in length and markings which are as follows:

Dimension from top of tube to maximum mark 510mm

Dimension from top of tube to minimum mark 522mm

I hope that this helps. From these dims you should be able to make a dipstick - try not to overfill the engine.

If the engine is linked to a PRM hydraulic gearbox e.g. Delta, 150, 160, 260 it is difficult to check the oil level. I have made a wooden dipstick which is easier to use.

I thought the OP was on about his engine oil dipstick rather than gearbox. 

 

I find it hard to take a reading with my  gearbox dipstick like your in the picture. Ive made a wooden one but your design is much better so I’ll pinch your idea. Cheers. 

[cuthound]

1 hour ago, Richard T said:

I have now been to our boat and checked the dipsticks. I was mistaken they are identical in length and markings which are as follows:

Dimension from top of tube to maximum mark 510mm

Dimension from top of tube to minimum mark 522mm

I hope that this helps. From these dims you should be able to make a dipstick - try not to overfill the engine.

If the engine is linked to a PRM hydraulic gearbox e.g. Delta, 150, 160, 260 it is difficult to check the oil level. I have made a wooden dipstick which is easier to use.

 

Excellent, I'll make one up.  I have been using a bent black cable tie to check the gearbox oil.

[Tony Brooks]

Why bother, just lay the dipstick on your hand and you can see where the oil is.

[sparrowcycles]

On 09/05/2018 at 19:29, Richard T said:

I have now been to our boat and checked the dipsticks. I was mistaken they are identical in length and markings which are as follows:

Dimension from top of tube to maximum mark 510mm

Dimension from top of tube to minimum mark 522mm

I hope that this helps. From these dims you should be able to make a dipstick - try not to overfill the engine.

If the engine is linked to a PRM hydraulic gearbox e.g. Delta, 150, 160, 260 it is difficult to check the oil level. I have made a wooden dipstick which is easier to use.

 

Sorry I have been in the wilds moving the boat. Thanks so much for that info, I can now make the dipstick!

That is a good plan with the wooden gearbox dip-stick.  I normally lay it on paper to check but it can be a bit misleading sometimes with oil dragged onto the dipstick from the threads if they touch.

 

Once again, thanks for taking time to measure that, It is much appreciated.

 

s

[cuthound]

16 hours ago, sparrowcycles said:

 

Sorry I have been in the wilds moving the boat. Thanks so much for that info, I can now make the dipstick!

That is a good plan with the wooden gearbox dip-stick.  I normally lay it on paper to check but it can be a bit misleading sometimes with oil dragged onto the dipstick from the threads if they touch.

 

Once again, thanks for taking time to measure that, It is much appreciated.

 

s

 

You have a wooden gearbox? ?

[Mikexx]

On 05/05/2018 at 19:14, sultan derocco said:

Don't use a dipstick that rests on the bottom of the sump.  Over a period of time, vibration will cause it to wear a neat round hole in the sump and let the oil drain out. 

Don't ask me know I know this!

 

Oh dear.

 

My dispstick goes to the bottom of the sump and you have me worried.

 

I've looked for stops and for dipsticks but not found any on ASAP, ebay etc.

 

An MGB one here:

  https://mgbhive.co.uk/product/mgc-engine/12b1461-mgc-angled-engine-oil-dipstick/

suggests its the tube that limits travel and not a 'stop' mid-way as seen on some engines.

 

Mine doesn't have any 'stop' at all.

 

Is the tube is screwed or pressed into the block?

 

Any suggestions to my best way forward?

[Boater Sam]

As I said, the tube is a press fit and often of the wrong length. Do not allow the dipstick to touch the sump pan.

[Mikexx]

7 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

As I said, the tube is a press fit and often of the wrong length. Do not allow the dipstick to touch the sump pan.

 

Thanks for confirmation.

 

What limits the travel of the dipstick?

 

My dispstick has no obvious means of limiting insertion such that it touches the bottom, even if the tube was somewhat longer.

 

My earlier link shows a dipstick with a 'limit' just below the loop. Mine doesn't even have that.

 

I'm wondering if I could/should weld a washer to limit insertion.