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I'm having trouble trying to locate a suitable bilge pump Single Pole +ve control switch for mounting in my control panel.  What I'm looking for is a 12v switch that:-

1. Is normally "on" (to connect to the float switch)

2. Can be switched to "manual over ride" against a spring (and disconnecting float feed).

3. Returns to "on" when released. (i.e. Can never be inadvertently switched off)

Prefer type fitting into circular hole around 1/2" diameter.

Any suggestions/sources gratefully received.

Thanks

 

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1 hour ago, Chewbacka said:

If I understand correctly you want the battery connected to a float switch (normally off unless water level rises) with a second switch that will force the pump to run?  If so why not just wire a ‘push to make’ switch in parallel with the float switch?

I see what you mean. 

But would anything nasty happen if someone pressed the push switch when the pump was already running from the float switch?

Can you have 2 x +ves active on the pump at the same time without causing damage?

Sorry if that sounds a bit thick - but it is late!!

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5 hours ago, Chewbacka said:

If I understand correctly you want the battery connected to a float switch (normally off unless water level rises) with a second switch that will force the pump to run?  If so why not just wire a ‘push to make’ switch in parallel with the float switch?

^^^^^

Chewbacka has it correct.

A switch or button similar to what you might use for the horn should fit the bill.

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5 hours ago, Rebotco said:

I see what you mean. 

But would anything nasty happen if someone pressed the push switch when the pump was already running from the float switch?

Can you have 2 x +ves active on the pump at the same time without causing damage?

Sorry if that sounds a bit thick - but it is late!!

No nastiness will happen. The pump can be turned on by either the manual switch, the auto float switch, or both at once. The voltage supplied to the pump will be the same.

Not totally clear if you are using a basic pump with two wires and a seperate float switch, or a pump with a built in float switch and three wires in. In either case it is the same. Just a simple manual overide on/off switch is fine.

Jen

Edited by Jen-in-Wellies
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Our bilge pump had a rocker switch.

Top position was 'Auto'  - Float switch enabled

Mid position was 'Off'

Bottom position was 'On'  - pump runs directly from switch.

However this was on a small panel complete with fuse.  it was labelled ECS = E C Smiths, the wholesale chandlers who are currently in adminstation or some other financial limbo.

Hope there is a clue in this.

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8 minutes ago, Grebe said:

Our bilge pump had a rocker switch.

Top position was 'Auto'  - Float switch enabled

Mid position was 'Off'

Bottom position was 'On'  - pump runs directly from switch.

However this was on a small panel complete with fuse.  it was labelled ECS = E C Smiths, the wholesale chandlers who are currently in adminstation or some other financial limbo.

Hope there is a clue in this.

The problem there is it can inadvertantly be left switched off which the op doesnt want.

  • Greenie 1
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I finally got round to installing a float switch last month, after 39 years of boating....  I converted the push to make switch in the way described above, in parallel to float switch. 

The other issue to think about is whether you want the pump to still work if the battery isolator(s) are turned off. If so you will probably need to wire one of the wires direct to a battery post, with a suitable fuse. On my boat the isolator is on neg side which means the bilge pump circuit now has two fuses...

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57 minutes ago, Scholar Gypsy said:

I finally got round to installing a float switch last month, after 39 years of boating....  I converted the push to make switch in the way described above, in parallel to float switch. 

The other issue to think about is whether you want the pump to still work if the battery isolator(s) are turned off. If so you will probably need to wire one of the wires direct to a battery post, with a suitable fuse. On my boat the isolator is on neg side which means the bilge pump circuit now has two fuses...

As a matter of interest this is the switch I've ordered Push Switch

The supply to the bilge pump is wired direct to the batteries via a fuse, so the isolator will not prevent it working.

  • Greenie 1
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2 hours ago, Scholar Gypsy said:

On my boat the isolator is on neg side which means the bilge pump circuit now has two fuses...

You’ve fused the neg wire? There’s really no point. 

It’s just another potential failure point. 

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2 hours ago, WotEver said:

You’ve fused the neg wire? There’s really no point. 

It’s just another potential failure point. 

I know I'm paranoid about electrical things that continue to work when the isolator is off.  Until 4-5 years ago there weren't any on  my boat...

For example in this case: the insulation gets chafed and then someone tries to start the engine without turning the isolator on....

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1 hour ago, Scholar Gypsy said:

I know I'm paranoid about electrical things that continue to work when the isolator is off.  Until 4-5 years ago there weren't any on  my boat...

For example in this case: the insulation gets chafed and then someone tries to start the engine without turning the isolator on....

The engine wouldn’t find an earth via the bilge pump, honest. 

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