Help - Seized Nut

[cuthound]

19 minutes ago, Bod said:

Insulating/masking tape might protect the brass ring whilst some form of pliers grip the head.

End on grip to the head, will be difficult, unless you have special pliers.  Best to try a side on grip, proper "Mole" grips, have been superseded by gorilla grips which have curved jaws (Irwin make this type.)

Failing that drill the head off, starting with the smallest drill you have, working up through the sizes, as required.  Go careful, you really do not need a broken drill!

Try using Robbo's extractors to hold the head, whilst the nut is undone.

 

Bod

Thanks Bod. Some food for thought there.

[ditchcrawler]

47 minutes ago, cuthound said:

I've got one of those from Aldi, but never had much success with it. Worth giving it a try before drilling though. Thanks Robbo.

No chance, dont bother if its that tight in a nut. just cut it through somehow

 

[bizzard]

The body of that stove looks like steel because its pretty thin in the second photo. But if its cast iron beware, go easy drilling and banging about or it might crack.

[cuthound]

11 hours ago, bizzard said:

The body of that stove looks like steel because its pretty thin in the second photo. But if its cast iron beware, go easy drilling and banging about or it might crack.

Yes the stove is made from thin steel, except for the lid which is cast.

[cuthound]

Machine screw now drilled out. Turned out to be steel plated with a gold finish.

Off to Screwfix after exercising the dog for some stainless steel hex machine screws and nuts.

Then I'll drill the 6 holes in the new mica and put it all back together with a bit of coppaslip in the threads.

Thanks all for your help.

[Bod]

Don't get S/S nuts, use plated steel nuts(magnetic ones)

S/Steel nuts will seize on S/Steel bolts, normal steel ones don't.

If any of the nuts removed are brass, then I would use brass nuts, not steel, they will never seize.

 

Bod

[cuthound]

1 hour ago, Bod said:

Don't get S/S nuts, use plated steel nuts(magnetic ones)

S/Steel nuts will seize on S/Steel bolts, normal steel ones don't.

If any of the nuts removed are brass, then I would use brass nuts, not steel, they will never seize.

 

Bod

Thanks Bod,

I originally thought the existing machine screws and nuts were brass, but they are steel plated with a gold finish.

I will try to obtain some brass nuts to go on the stainless machine screws. If I can't I have steel galvanised ones I can use.

 

Edited April 18, 2018 by cuthound
To unmangle the effects of autocorrect

[LEO]

Good Luck. dreadful job and if you have a heat exchanger in the OD4, virtually impossible to do. I have and tend to clean the 'glass' very rarely to avoid damage.

 

L

[cuthound]

Job new complete.

I used stainless steel hex bolts and brass washers bought from a local fastnings company for £2, plus £6 for the penetrating oil and nearly £40 delivered for the circular piece of mica, so nearly £50 DIY.

I have found online suppliers of 6" square sheets of mica for £10, so will order one and see if I can cut a circle out of it for a spare.

 

2 hours ago, LEO said:

Good Luck. dreadful job and if you have a heat exchanger in the OD4, virtually impossible to do. I have and tend to clean the 'glass' very rarely to avoid damage.

 

L

Mine cracked during use, from one of the screws inwards. Mica probably not fitted properly when the stove was new. I doubt if mine has run for 500 hours yet from new, despite being in its 11th year.

[Robbo]

44 minutes ago, cuthound said:

Mine cracked during use, from one of the screws inwards. Mica probably not fitted properly when the stove was new. I doubt if mine has run for 500 hours yet from new, despite being in its 11th year.

Don't you use the heater?   I installed my drip-fed heater only in December and recon it's nearly 3000 hours use already.

[cuthound]

27 minutes ago, Robbo said:

Don't you use the heater?   I installed my drip-fed heater only in December and recon it's nearly 3000 hours use already.

When I bought the boat it was nearly 7 years old. I asked the previous owner to show me how to light the stove. He said he didn't really know how. He had paid for an engineer from Kuranda to come to the boat and show him how to light it. He thought it looked too complicated and dangerous so never used it again! 

When I got the boat I couldn't the get the stove to light. Eventually after a couple of years of trying to find some one to service it, I plucked up the courage to open the regulator myself and found that the diesel in it had evaporated, gumming everything up. I cleaned it out with brake cleaner and the stove lit, but burned with an smokey orange flame.

Last winter I decided to try and adjust the high flame level on the regulator and eventually got the stove to burn with a pure blue flame from settings 1-4.

Since then I have used it occasionally (I am a hobby boater, not a liveaboard) on the odd weeks winter cruise, hence the 500 hour estimate.

Your stove must be in almost constant use to have clocked up 3000 hours since December 

 

[Robbo]

3 hours ago, cuthound said:

Since then I have used it occasionally (I am a hobby boater, not a liveaboard) on the odd weeks winter cruise, hence the 500 hour estimate.

Your stove must be in almost constant use to have clocked up 3000 hours since December 

That makes sense, and yes mine has been on mostly 24/7 since December and only been switched off in recent days or if I’ve not been on the boat for a few days.

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

A little walk around the carpark and a gentle rub will unstuck a stuck nut. 

[cuthound]

13 hours ago, Robbo said:

That makes sense, and yes mine has been on mostly 24/7 since December and only been switched off in recent days or if I’ve not been on the boat for a few days.

Dont forget to clean it every 3 weeks continuous running. It is important to keep the tiny holes at the top of the burner pot clear by poking them through with a small drill bit, scraping the crud off the stove floor and keeping the flue (especially at the bend where it joins the stove) clear.

I also use Russboy cleaning tablets (now replaced with sachets) every 10-11 days, which burn in psychedelic colours and stop the carbon from getting too hard.

https://www.kuranda.co.uk/diesel-stove-cleaning-tablets-ac167-manufacturer

Edited April 19, 2018 by cuthound
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