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Continuing fridge issues


colmac

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Hi, if I may I would like to continue the 12v fridge conundrum. We are now out and cruising and although the fridge has power to it, interior light on and the various LED's are all lit up the compressor will not run. I suspect this is due to the voltage. The battery meter shows 14.5 v and a circuit check at the fridge end shows 13.5v. The manual says "cut off voltage10.4v and cut in voltage 11.7v"  Does this mean that the power supply has to be between these values or the fridge won't work ? I f so it seems odd for a 12v fridge ? If this is the case is there such a thing as a voltage regulator I can fit to maintain a regular voltage ?Thank you

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No - what these voltages mean is that in the case of a low battery / supply voltage, the fridge will cut out ( stop working) at 10.4 volts and won't re-start until the voltage rises again to 11.7 volts.  So it will work normally at voltages over 11.7 volts up to its rated max input voltage...  13.5 volts should be fine, so it is suggesting a fault in the compressor...

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9 minutes ago, colmac said:

I suspect this is due to the voltage. The battery meter shows 14.5 v and a circuit check at the fridge end shows 13.5v

If you’re getting 13.5V at the fridge then it’s not voltage. If you’re getting 13.5V at the fridge and 14.5V at the batteries and the fridge isn’t running, where’s the lost volt gone?

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10 minutes ago, colmac said:

We are now out and cruising and although the fridge has power to it, interior light on and the various LED's are all lit up the compressor will not run

Is the thermostat turned on, (adjustable knob inside the fridge) and at a low enough temperature to kick in the compressor ?

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Just now, Jen-in-Wellies said:

How far is the fridge from the batteries (m, or feet)? What size battery cable (mm2? The 1V drop might be more when the fridge compressor starts. Enough to make it trip out.

Jen

But as 13.5 is higher than 11.7 the compressor should be trying to start, so OP would see that voltage drop to <10.4V, raise back up, drop again, ad Infinitum. Or does his fridge lock out after a number of unsuccessful attempts?

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Thanks all. First point, the fridge doesn't have a temperature "knob" it's an all singing dancing modern one with a series of LED's to set the temperature. The voltage drop between the batteries and fridge is due, I presume ,to a voltage drop due to the length of cable twixt the two,12m.  I think a call to the manufacturers is the answer, only had the fridge for 3 weeks.Cheers all.

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27 minutes ago, colmac said:

Thanks all. First point, the fridge doesn't have a temperature "knob" it's an all singing dancing modern one with a series of LED's to set the temperature. The voltage drop between the batteries and fridge is due, I presume ,to a voltage drop due to the length of cable twixt the two,12m.  I think a call to the manufacturers is the answer, only had the fridge for 3 weeks.Cheers all.

" All singing and dancing modern" is the bit I dont like!! Keep it simples is best on a boat innitt. Bro in law just bought a washing machine with a lovely round dial and no leds, hard to find but still out there.

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31 minutes ago, colmac said:

The voltage drop between the batteries and fridge is due, I presume ,to a voltage drop due to the length of cable twixt the two,12m

The voltage drop will only occur if there’s a current flowing. At 12m distance if it’s a Danfoss compressor (they usually are) then the connecting cables should be at least 102mm

If they’re much less than that, you’ve found the problem. 

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1 minute ago, WotEver said:

The voltage drop will only occur if there’s a current flowing. At 12m distance if it’s a Danfoss compressor (they usually are) then the connecting cables should be at least 102mm

 

This is what I was getting at when I asked if it ever worked, but failed to expand on 

From the OP it seems to me as though there is a volt missing with the fridge not running. I bet the volt drop is massive with the compressor trying to start and the wizzy electronics is stopping it working  

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

This is what I was getting at when I asked if it ever worked, but failed to expand on 

From the OP it seems to me as though there is a volt missing with the fridge not running. I bet the volt drop is massive with the compressor trying to start and the wizzy electronics is stopping it working  

Yup, that’s my suspicion too. 

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In addition to MtB's question, #

Without trawling thru every post made by the OP, Was there a 12v fridge installed in the same place (utilising the same cabling) ?

If not what size cable was used to connect it up, where does the fridge cabling pick up its supply from, and what size cable feeds that supply point ?

 

There is no use using 10mm2 cable from the supply point to the fridge, if the power is being picked up from some other (example : 0.5mm2 lighting circuit) point powered with smaller cable.

 

If there was a previous fridge - was it 12v and did it work ?

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My elderly Batts (Danfoss compressor) fridge / freezer has a Led lamp which flashes if the volts are too low or too high. IIRC there are some LEDs on the motor control panel at the back of the fridge which give more complete information. OK it's possibly a pain to get at but better than -something- in the dark?

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The problem appears to be the amps which I tested at 5a and the fridge requires 12.5a according to the manufacturers. The wiring was in situ but we had a gas fridge with 12v capability which we never used. This wiring is obviously not up to the job so we are having the appropriate cables fitted next week.

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1 hour ago, colmac said:

The problem appears to be the amps which I tested at 5a and the fridge requires 12.5a according to the manufacturers. The wiring was in situ but we had a gas fridge with 12v capability which we never used. This wiring is obviously not up to the job so we are having the appropriate cables fitted next week.

If I were you I would remove one of the boat batteries, take in the boat and sit it next to the fridge. Connect it directly to the fridge an see if it works. At least it would confirm or otherwise whether the fridge is faulty. If it works then it must be the wiring.

Edited by Flyboy
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8 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

If I were you I would removed one of the boat batteries, take in the boat and sit it next to the fridge. Connect it directly to the fridge an see if it works. At least it would confirm or otherwise whether the fridge is faulty. If it works then it must be the wiring.

If there’s a volt being dropped with nothing running then there’s not much doubt that it’s either the cables or a poor connection. 

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8 minutes ago, WotEver said:

If there’s a volt being dropped with nothing running then there’s not much doubt that it’s either the cables or a poor connection. 

If there is a voltage being dropped then the fridge is drawing some current. But since the voltage is above the cut-out level the fridge should still start. That it doesn't, suggests to me that something is wrong with the fridge compressor motor ( and also probably with the wiring). 

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6 minutes ago, David Mack said:

If there is a voltage being dropped then the fridge is drawing some current. But since the voltage is above the cut-out level the fridge should still start. That it doesn't, suggests to me that something is wrong with the fridge compressor motor ( and also probably with the wiring). 

As was suggested in post 8 (and 6). However, as we’ve since learned that it’s an all singing and dancing electronic controller I’m now leaning towards it having given up trying to start the compressor due to excessive voltage drop when it does so. 

Whatever, it ideally needs a 162mm feed prior to fault finding. Even if the fridge is faulty the cabling will need to be uprated for the replacement. 

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5 hours ago, Flyboy said:

If I were you I would remove one of the boat batteries, take in the boat and sit it next to the fridge. Connect it directly to the fridge an see if it works. At least it would confirm or otherwise whether the fridge is faulty. If it works then it must be the wiring.

I think this is a good idea, to make doubly sure that it doesn't work. If it doesn't work then it can be sent back pronto under guarantee. In the meantime the wiring can be sorted.

Edited by bizzard
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19 hours ago, WotEver said:

If there’s a volt being dropped with nothing running then there’s not much doubt that it’s either the cables or a poor connection. 

Not necessarily so, you would still get a voltage drop if the compressor was siezed. The stall current will be quite high. This is why I suggested in post 18 that the fridge is connected directly with a battery on short wires. At least you can eliminate if there is a problem with the fridge.

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