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rusty69

Window Frames -Screw em or screw em?

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1 minute ago, rusty69 said:

Any good for window frames then on a boat? I hate varnishing!

Dunno, do they regularly get wet?

I remade the frames for WotEver, which did tend to get wet with condensation. I only used soft wood but gave it a first coat of Ronseal varnish thinned down with white spirit. Gently rubbed it down when it was dry and gave it a few coats thereafter with un-thinned varnish, very gently rubbing down between coats. They looked like glass when I’d finished and it really didn’t take long. 

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Just now, WotEver said:

Dunno, do they regularly get wet?

I remade the frames for WotEver, which did tend to get wet with condensation. I only used soft wood but gave it a first coat of Ronseal varnish thinned down with white spirit. Gently rubbed it down when it was dry and gave it a few coats thereafter with un-thinned varnish, very gently rubbing down between coats. They looked like glass when I’d finished and it really didn’t take long. 

WotEver.:)

Yeah spose they get some condensation. Oh well, varnishing it is then!

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49 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

WotEver.:)

Yeah spose they get some condensation. Oh well, varnishing it is then!

A decent hardwood oil?

Teak oil or garden furniture grade maybe.

 

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1 minute ago, TheBiscuits said:

A decent hardwood oil?

Teak oil or garden furniture grade maybe.

 

They are hardwood, so may work. 

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Teak oil. Far less faffing around than varnishing.

55 posts and no jokes? This isn't a joke free thread is it? Can't understand a word of this drilling and tapping things up. Any chance of any photos to see what your going on about? If I get any leaks I can't solve with Cpt Tolleys or new foam strip, I think I'll buy a new boat.

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8 hours ago, Dr Bob said:

Teak oil. Far less faffing around than varnishing.

55 posts and no jokes? This isn't a joke free thread is it? Can't understand a word of this drilling and tapping things up. Any chance of any photos to see what your going on about? If I get any leaks I can't solve with Cpt Tolleys or new foam strip, I think I'll buy a new boat.

Tis just a standard bus window, but the wooden batten beneath will not allow the screws enough bite to pull the window against the cabin. 

The only solution so far is

1. Drill and tap cabin

2 Fill wood and re drill

3 new battens

4 new boat. 

5. Waynes Sex bolts

6 Bigger screws with bigger holes.

I have chosen 1, with new holes to secure battens. 

Simples. 

Edited by rusty69

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2 hours ago, rusty69 said:

Tis just a standard bus window, but the wooden batten beneath will not allow the screws enough bite to pull the window against the cabin. 

The only solution so far is

1. Drill and tap cabin

2 Fill wood and re drill

3 new battens

4 new boat. 

5. Waynes Sex bolts

6 Bigger screws with bigger holes.

I have chosen 1, with new holes to secure battens. 

Simples. 

Have you considered sealed Pop Rivets ? 

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2 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Have you considered sealed Pop Rivets ? 

Yes, certainly a possibility. athough I originally dismissed this idea as the current holes are countersunk (10mm dia). Could work though.

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23 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Yes, certainly a possibility. athough I originally dismissed this idea as the current holes are countersunk (10mm dia). Could work though.

Sealed countersunk rivets are available. Are you saying that the holes are 10mm  diameter or the countersink head is 10mm ?

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7 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Sealed countersunk rivets are available. Are you saying that the holes are 10mm  diameter or the countersink head is 10mm ?

Countersink head is 10mm. Hole in cabin is approx 4.5mm. I bought some machine screws and a tap yesterday, so will see how I get on. Plan B may well be pop rivets. Still need to drill the cabin side to hold the batterns in place whatever I do.

Edited by rusty69

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1 minute ago, rusty69 said:

Countersink head is 10mm. Hole in cabin is approx 4.5mm. I bought some machine screws and a tap yesterday, so will see how I get on. Plan B may well be pop rivets. Still need to drill the cabin side to hold the batterns in place whatever I do.

A 4.8mm countersunk Pop rivet has a 9.5mm diam head.

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1 minute ago, Flyboy said:

A 4.8mm countersunk Pop rivet has a 9.5mm diam head.

Pretty close then . Thanks

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Good ones yes, cheap ones no, only good for sheet metal thickness up to the size of the screw/tap you want to use

Raý

Needs use of cutting fluid

  • Happy 1

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I managed to get one window done today (not without minor problems)

 

1. Drilled and tapped holes . Check

2. Got appropriate SS machine screws.Check (Thanks Bee/Wotever).

3. Drilled new holes to secure the battens.Check. (Thanks Tony b)

4. Tap broke.Check

5. Started to rain . Check

6. Swore a lot and removed broken tap. Check.

7. Drilled and tapped remaining holes. Check

8. Applied butyl rubber tape. Check

9. Removed "a piece" of rubber to take screw (using a leather punch).Check

10. Applied copperslip to screws.Check (Thanks Jen)

11. Screwed frame to cabin. Check.

12.Glass of wine . Check

 

Think I need to purchase a quality tap set for next windows, not a cheap Chinese chocolate one.

 

11 more to do. Check

Edited by rusty69
  • Greenie 1

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26 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Think I need to purchase a quality tap set for next windows, not a cheap Chinese chocolate one

I had a serious job to do last year and my chocolate set was useless. It was stripping the tap!  So I bought a decent 6mm tap from Axminster. That rounded off my tap holder. So I bought a decent tap holder from Axminster... a pattern was emerging... I ran out of 5mm drill bits. So I bought a cobalt one from Axminster...

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3 minutes ago, WotEver said:

I had a serious job to do last year and my chocolate set was useless. It was stripping the tap!  So I bought a decent 6mm tap from Axminster. That rounded off my tap holder. So I bought a decent tap holder from Axminster... a pattern was emerging... I ran out of 5mm drill bits. So I bought a cobalt one from Axminster...

So, Buy, new Drill, extension, chuck key,drill bits, taps, tap holder, carpet, electricity from Axminster and I should be ok?

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4 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

So, Buy, new Drill, extension, chuck key,drill bits, taps, tap holder, carpet, electricity from Axminster and I should be ok?

Then pop next door to Screwfix and get a kettle and DeWalt mug to make tea. 

  • Haha 1

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2 minutes ago, 70liveaboard said:

Out of interest OP, what is the insulation used on your boat ?

Rockwool.

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1 hour ago, rusty69 said:

I managed to get one window done today (not without minor problems)

 

1. Drilled and tapped holes . Check

2. Got appropriate SS machine screws.Check (Thanks Bee/Wotever).

3. Drilled new holes to secure the battens.Check. (Thanks Tony b)

4. Tap broke.Check

5. Started to rain . Check

6. Swore a lot and removed broken tap. Check.

7. Drilled and tapped remaining holes. Check

8. Applied butyl rubber tape. Check

9. Removed "a piece" of rubber to take screw (using a leather punch).Check

10. Applied copperslip to screws.Check (Thanks Jen)

11. Screwed frame to cabin. Check.

12.Glass of wine . Check

 

Think I need to purchase a quality tap set for next windows, not a cheap Chinese chocolate one.

 

11 more to do. Check

I see you are using Copperslip on the threads. I am assuming your window frames are aluminium, just be aware that copper and aluminium together are a recipe for bad corrosion. Make sure the Copperslip is just on the threads and not in contact with the aluminium.

Also stainless and aluminium together is also very bad for corrosion. I would suggest that brass machine screws would be best.

Edited by Flyboy

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