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how much to replate a narrowboat...?


Wittenham

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it is my maiden question, be gentle.... considering a 72 foot narrowboat that has sat moored for at least six years, connected to shore power.  Unknown amount of time since it was last inspected/had done whatever is supposed to happen to bottoms. 

Assuming the boat needs replating [is that what you call it?], very roughly, how much would this be?  I am guessing that is not the kind of work that i can book in for an afternoon... is that the kind of work that needs scheduling ?? months [years?] in advance.   The rest of the boat is not in great shape either, but i am not worried about that.

thanks

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Narrowboats are not normally re-plated as that term suggests that the old plates are removed and new ones fitted in their place.  The normal repair is over plating where new steel is welded over the top of the old.  This is a much simpler method of repair but needs to be done properly.

Has the boat been looked at out of the water by a surveyor to assess the state of the hull?  There can be problems with boats that have been on shore lines without galvanic isolators fitted but you may be lucky.  I apppreciate that you are looking at options at this point.

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My boat was moored and neglected for a few years before I bought it. Not sure whether it was connected to shore power. The Base was 10mm all over, just like the day it was built.

Until you get the boat lifted and surveyed, it's a bit negative to think you will probably need to spend several thousands on overplating.

However, I agree it's not a bad thing to be prepared for on the off chance.

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12 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:

My boat was moored and neglected for a few years before I bought it. Not sure whether it was connected to shore power. The Base was 10mm all over, just like the day it was built.

Until you get the boat lifted and surveyed, it's a bit negative to think you will probably need to spend several thousands on overplating.

However, I agree it's not a bad thing to be prepared for on the off chance.

But 'aint it nice when your resigned yourself to an overplate, you've budgeted for an overplate and you don't need one "hooray £8000 more to spend on batteries"

  • Haha 1
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1 hour ago, Wittenham said:

it is my maiden question, be gentle.... considering a 72 foot narrowboat that has sat moored for at least six years, connected to shore power.  Unknown amount of time since it was last inspected/had done whatever is supposed to happen to bottoms. 

Assuming the boat needs replating [is that what you call it?], very roughly, how much would this be?  I am guessing that is not the kind of work that i can book in for an afternoon... is that the kind of work that needs scheduling ?? months [years?] in advance.   The rest of the boat is not in great shape either, but i am not worried about that.

thanks

I would seriously rethink buying a different boat. If it does need over plating and other parts not in great shape you would probably be better off using that money on a better boat. Unless of course your budget is very small. Possibly buy a smaller boat with good hull and engine?

As stated a hull only survey would find out about the hull thickness condition.

I take it you are handy with DIY or have friends who are good, as Marina rates soon add up.

James:)

 

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Tell us more about this boat and your plans, is this a modern or an old boat? are you going to be moving it or taking over its current static mooring.

72 foot is very very big and almost no modern boats are made that big, 70 is the common maximum. If its old then its more likely only 71'6"" but this is still too big to fit into a few locks. Some very old boats are also too wide to fit through some locks.

................Dave

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1 hour ago, dmr said:

Tell us more about this boat and your plans, is this a modern or an old boat? are you going to be moving it or taking over its current static mooring.

72 foot is very very big and almost no modern boats are made that big, 70 is the common maximum. If its old then its more likely only 71'6"" but this is still too big to fit into a few locks. Some very old boats are also too wide to fit through some locks.

................Dave

Which locks are too short to accommodate a 71'6" boat but can take a 70 footer?

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Can't say for sure. The K&A has a fair few but you could diagonal as long as you don't share with another long boat. There's a couple in Birmingham that might give trouble, but there are alternative routes, one on the North Stratford might be tight, The Stratford Avon would be a nightmare. Several canals are listed as 70 foot but most will take a slightly longer boat, you don't really know the problem locks till you have got stuck in one. :D

.............Dave

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37 minutes ago, dmr said:

Can't say for sure. The K&A has a fair few but you could diagonal as long as you don't share with another long boat. There's a couple in Birmingham that might give trouble, but there are alternative routes, one on the North Stratford might be tight, The Stratford Avon would be a nightmare. Several canals are listed as 70 foot but most will take a slightly longer boat, you don't really know the problem locks till you have got stuck in one. :D

.............Dave

None in Brum that can't be done though; and all while facing the right way round too.

JP

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2 minutes ago, Captain Pegg said:

None in Brum that can't be done though; and all while facing the right way round too.

JP

Willow did the Crow in reverse last year as they didn't think they would fit going forward.

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2 minutes ago, Rob-M said:

Willow did the Crow in reverse last year as they didn't think they would fit going forward.

Willow is longer than 71' 6" allegedly. Second from bottom (I think) is the shortest of the Oldbury locks and it comes down to pushing the tiller toward the nearside wall so the stern - and particularly the rudder - can sit back in the arc of the cill once the lock is empty. Then with the front pushed to the offside the gate (single leaf of course) will just swing past. Fenders up for the operation naturally.

Ryders Green top lock is also short and as you know Smethwick are tight but I have to be honest and say I didn't really notice when I first went through them because it's par for the course on the BCN with GU boats that you will need to manipulate them through.

JP

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1 hour ago, Captain Pegg said:

None in Brum that can't be done though; and all while facing the right way round too.

JP

Last year we met a hire boat stuck in the Smethwick locks (the middle one?). Had to show them how to lift the back fender, so I know its a bit tight but don't know how tight. We are are a mere 70' 8" and we fit ok.

..................Dave

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2 hours ago, dmr said:

Can't say for sure. The K&A has a fair few but you could diagonal as long as you don't share with another long boat. There's a couple in Birmingham that might give trouble, but there are alternative routes, one on the North Stratford might be tight, The Stratford Avon would be a nightmare. Several canals are listed as 70 foot but most will take a slightly longer boat, you don't really know the problem locks till you have got stuck in one. :D

.............Dave

Done all of them in Fulbourne (71ft 6in X 7 ft 0.5 in).

Edited by David Mack
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3 hours ago, dmr said:

Tell us more about this boat and your plans, is this a modern or an old boat? are you going to be moving it or taking over its current static mooring.

................Dave

Taking over a static mooring, so I am not really bothered if it is a 'boat', more a floating flat.  [I have read lots of the threads on this very useful site about the pros, cons, issues, etc].  Another noob question [old timers, look away now...]:  what happens if the hull is not very good and the boat doesn't go anywhere?  Might it sink suddenly one day or is it a slow leak situation?  Can you patch boats from the inside? 

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This is outside my direct area of first hand experience, but with a bit of imagination you can guess that a boat is most likely to fill with water slowly, but in some cases will sink very quickly. A really bad case might be a frozen canal with the ice pushing against a terminally fragile side. Short term patches can be done from the inside, but your boat will have a nice interior floor and lined sides so if it takes on water how will you know where the leak is?

Its your decision. if you get this boat and it sinks with all your possessions on board will this be an adventure or a disaster?, been serious here, living on  boat can be great but only you can decide if the risk is worthwhile.

...............Dave

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46 minutes ago, Wittenham said:

Taking over a static mooring, so I am not really bothered if it is a 'boat', more a floating flat.  [I have read lots of the threads on this very useful site about the pros, cons, issues, etc].  Another noob question [old timers, look away now...]:  what happens if the hull is not very good and the boat doesn't go anywhere?  Might it sink suddenly one day or is it a slow leak situation?  Can you patch boats from the inside? 

Q - Is it an 'old boat' ? 

Assuming you will want to insure it then the insurance company will require a full structural survey, and depending on the particular insurance company will come into force at somewhere between 20 and 30 years old. If it is 'elderly' then you will have to have it lifted out and surveyed anyway, so 'just living on it and waiting for it to sink' is not an option.

You will need insurance to be able to licence the boat, but this can be basic 3rd Party insurance, ie if it sinks you lose the boat and contents with no insurance cover, but it will generally pay out to clear up any pollution and have it lifted out if it does sink.

 

It is, initially, unlikely to sink suddenly as it will just be 'pin-pricks' that start to weep, you will not notice this, then one day you will think, "the boat is sitting a bit lower in the water than normal', once it settles to a certain point the water can then start to flood in thru various hull openings (Exhaust, toilet, sink, shower, etc etc) and then it could sink within a very short space of time.

It is unlikely that you can fix the holes from the inside (even if you could find them) you would need to remove all of the furniture, kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and so on, lift the floor and then remove the ballast, get back to bare metal, remove all of the water and you may stand a chance of seeing where it is coming in.

In all probability you will stick a bit of chewing gum in the hole and your finger will push thru' somewhere else.

It is not a good move to buy a boat, plan to do nothing to maintain (or improve its condition) and just sit waiting for it to sink.

We haven't even mentioned, electricity supply, charging of batteries, fetching water, carrying gas bottles and bags of coal AND emptying the toilet.

Why not just go and buy a flat

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Just now, Tumshie said:

Getting to be a bit of a theme.....

Unfortunately more and more folks see owning a boat as a cheap option, carefree, no rules, & having a wonderful outlook/view - just a floating flat. They do not realise that living on a boat is almost a full time job and to survive you need to enjoy your 'work'.

Having to come home to a full toilet, empty water tank, no coal and flat batteries on a dark, cold Winters evening is beyond their comprehension until it ACTUALLY HAPPENS 

  • Greenie 2
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