Exhaust Manifold/Heat Exchanger Repair

[pearley]

The coolant filler on top of the exhaust mainfold/heat Exchanger (part 4 on the diagram) is leaking around the joint. About 1/4 litre a month. The brass filler appears to be peened into the cast Manifold so my first thought was to replace it, until Cummins tell me the part is nearly £800 plus Vat. I could just put up with it and monitor the coolant loss more often or attempt a repair. What would you recommend to put up with the heat and expansion? 

Edited March 20, 2018 by pearley

[Bee]

Lots of flux & solder? I think its possible to solder steel and brass, might be a special flux. My soldering skills are abysmal.

[Tony Brooks]

Except the manifold may be aluminium as many water cooled ones are.

I would be looking into an advanced adhesive solution as long as I could get everything grease free and clean.

Just to be certain are you 100% sure its no leaking from the joint where the overflow joins the filler neck or from the actual cap?

[cereal tiller]

18 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Except the manifold may be aluminium as many water cooled ones are.

I would be looking into an advanced adhesive solution as long as I could get everything grease free and clean.

Just to be certain are you 100% sure its no leaking from the joint where the overflow joins the filler neck or from the actual cap?

Have Repaired Quite a few of these.If the Filler Neck is Brass and the Casting it fits into is Aluminium.the easy way is to Turn the Centre out of an Impellor Pump cover Palate so the the Neck is a slide fit into it.Silver Solder the Neck to the Cover Plate then Drill clearance holes for 5 MM set crews and Tap the Casting to accept the Screws .2 Screws set beneath the notches for the Filler Cap will suffice along with your Favoured Sealant.

Have had plenty of them that have been Repaired this  way still going strong after Decades of use.

[Slim]

A similar problem to one I had several years ago on a Polar h/e.

I cut the old neck off flush then tickled / butchered the remains out. I then had some of the hole filled in with weld. A plate would have served the same purpose. I then bolted on a flanged filler neck that I found on line. Don't have the details to hand but if you PM me I'll dig them out in the next couple of days. Neck cost this side of £15 and the welding / tapping £40 ish . Bit better than £ 800!!

Frank

 

A couple of days cos I'm on the boat at the moment

[pearley]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

Except the manifold may be aluminium as many water cooled ones are.

I would be looking into an advanced adhesive solution as long as I could get everything grease free and clean.

Just to be certain are you 100% sure its no leaking from the joint where the overflow joins the filler neck or from the actual cap?

Fairly certain in is from the joint. We are using red antifreeze and there is a build up of reddy orange crud around that join. 

 

27 minutes ago, Slim said:

A similar problem to one I had several years ago on a Polar h/e.

I cut the old neck off flush then tickled / butchered the remains out. I then had some of the hole filled in with weld. A plate would have served the same purpose. I then bolted on a flanged filler neck that I found on line. Don't have the details to hand but if you PM me I'll dig them out in the next couple of days. Neck cost this side of £15 and the welding / tapping £40 ish . Bit better than £ 800!!

Frank

 

A couple of days cos I'm on the boat at the moment

That is something that occurred to me. I recall seeing a rrpair to a Vetus engine along these lines, drilling and tapping the manifold then booting on a he's filler neck. Though to be honest I was just wondering if something like Araldite would do it. 

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, cereal tiller said:

Have Repaired Quite a few of these.If the Filler Neck is Brass and the Casting it fits into is Aluminium.the easy way is to Turn the Centre out of an Impellor Pump cover Palate so the the Neck is a slide fit into it.Silver Solder the Neck to the Cover Plate then Drill clearance holes for 5 MM set crews and Tap the Casting to accept the Screws .2 Screws set beneath the notches for the Filler Cap will suffice along with your Favoured Sealant.

Have had plenty of them that have been Repaired this  way still going strong after Decades of use.

Good method if the OP has the facilities.

[Eeyore]

Have a look at http://destinynarrowboat.weebly.com/vetus.html 

[pearley]

14 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Good method if the OP has the facilities.

I'm a CCer  so minimal facilities but I could drill and tap the holes. 

 

13 hours ago, Eeyore said:

Have a look at http://destinynarrowboat.weebly.com/vetus.html 

That's the one I was thinking of, thanks.