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which water pump


treddieafloat

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My seaflo water pump (SFDP1-033-035-41) has gone mad sometimes not working after using the shower now not stopping. I think its time to replace it. Seaflo dont seem to have a good reputation without spending a fortune what make would people recommend? My current one works at 35psi through an accumulator do I need to look for 35psi again?

Any help much appreciated

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1. Before buying a new pump I would try to short the two wires that connect to the END of the pump, not the two that go into the cylindrical bit. There may be a cover you can remove or stick a pin through both wires. DO NOT TOUCH THE NEGATIVE WIRE that runs dir4ect into the cylindrical body. If the pump runs then it indicates a pressure switch fault and a decent remote pressure switch like a D Square (Ebay) will solve the problem for the long term. You can also adjust the cut in and cut out pressures on such switches.

2. Unless you have an instant gas water haeter the pressure is not that important unless you like a "power shower". The delivery volume may be but I suspect in the majority of cases it will not be. Just ensure the cut out pressure is at least 5PSI less than the PRV pressure on the hot water system if you have one. In that respect a 35 psi one should be a safe bet.

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7 minutes ago, treddieafloat said:

The pin did the trick. I think I will buy replacement pressure switch to repair pump as back up and buy new pump.

Thanks again

Neil

 

If you have money to burn then be my guest.

I don't so about £20 for a decent remote switch plus (say) £10 for a few plumbing fittings gives me the reassurance I will have no more pressure switch problems for probably tens of years.

Then you can scrounge pumps with failed pressure switches for peanuts or for free.

The inbuilt pressure switches are a real pain.

The other way to extend the inbuilt switches life is to make it control a relay that in turn switches the pump on and off but that adds complications and points of  failure.

It's not only the switches themselves that fail. The switch diaphragm can harden or scale up and the small drilling that feeds pressure to the switch diaphragm can block. A remote switch solves all this for all but ever.

If you don't know how to fit a remote switch or employ a relay just ask.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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18 minutes ago, treddieafloat said:

Hi Tony

Could you recommend a remote switch and give advise on how to fit it.

Many thanks

Neil

Sorry, not Tony, but i fitted pnevof these square d copies a few years ago. Has been great. I also wired in a 12v relay to try and prolong the switch contacts, but that is probably overkill. 

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/SquareD-Water-Pressure-Switch-4-6-bar-2-pole-PS6SQD-/162887848973?nav=SEARCH

You plumb it inline with your water pump and bypass the pumps internal pressure switch.,using the external switch. 

Proper square d switches are available, but more costly. 

Over to you Tony. 

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2 hours ago, treddieafloat said:

Hi Tony

Could you recommend a remote switch and give advise on how to fit it.

Many thanks

Neil

The switch Rusty linked to should be fine. You will see its a double pole switch having two sets of contacts. You will only need to use one set and keep the other set as a spare in case you ever need it. If you use both sets in parallel you halve the load on them so again extend their life.

You say the pin trick get the pump running so the wires you need to cut into are the pair you put the pins into. In effect you connect the main 12V pos. going to the pump to the D square switch and then the positive cable that runs into the cylindrical pump motor body to the other. The later cable may need extending.

As far as the plumbing goes I like to use a wall mounted tap connector plus reducing bushes so I can mount the switch vertically.  You cut into any suitable pipe on the pressure (tap) side of the pump and put a T piece in. The branch on the T runs to the said tap connector. You will probably have to use a compression tap mounting so if you are using plastic plumbing pipe you MUST use a METAL pipe insert where you use a compression fitting otherwise they are prone to leaks but probably not so much a problem on cold water pipes.

You will then need to set the pressure to ensure any PRV on the hot system does not open AND you do not exceed any pressure limit given by the calorifier maker. This is easy if you have an accumulator that has an air pressure vale on the top. Otherwise turn the cut out pressure down until the flow from the tap reduces with the pump running and the up a bit until you get acceptable flow.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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