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Pigeon/Dog box finish


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Hi all,

I'm getting what I think is called a pigeon/dogbox [newby here], sort of mini hut on the roof, air vent. Its going to be made in oak, but the guy making it wants to know what I want it finishing in. Varnish, Tung oil, Teak oil or something different. So what is the best longest lasting, easiest maintaining STUFF to put on. THANKS Alastair

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40 minutes ago, bodysnatcher said:

Hi all,

I'm getting what I think is called a pigeon/dogbox [newby here], sort of mini hut on the roof, air vent. Its going to be made in oak, but the guy making it wants to know what I want it finishing in. Varnish, Tung oil, Teak oil or something different. So what is the best longest lasting, easiest maintaining STUFF to put on. THANKS Alastair

This good stuff. Easy to apply and doesn't crack or fade.  https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JPG1Q5S/ref=pe_385721_139953871_TE_3p_dp_1 

 

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Another vote for Le Tonkinous.

Before using it on the deck board (cratch) my boat, I tried it on some hardwood garden furniture. 5 coats initially. The furniture is outside all year round, now 3 years old, has never been reported and is still in perfact condition.

As well as the deck board I have used it to cover some roses and castles on the back doors with great success.

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23 hours ago, bodysnatcher said:

Hi, its totally oak. So the finishing has to be uv stable, waterproof, with minimal maintenance. Does the Osmo meet the criteria. I thought varnish was meant to be not so good as it peels and chips. 

It will if it is Polyeurethane, which degrade in UV light. Proper exterior varnish will last several years before requiring re-coating.

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On 2/11/2018 at 00:13, bodysnatcher said:

Hi, its totally oak. So the finishing has to be uv stable, waterproof, with minimal maintenance. Does the Osmo meet the criteria. I thought varnish was meant to be not so good as it peels and chips. 

Check what fastenings are being used as if ferrous you could end up with a series of black stains on the wood

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This weekend I have just finished the galley worktops in Le Tonkinous, took four coats as it soaked into the Iroko for the first two and then i got dust specks on it and had to flat back and recoat again. Happy with it though.

So i can vouch fro it aswell ;)

tn_20180212_174911.jpg

 

tn_20180212_174858.jpg

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No wish to hijack this thread, but the answers might be relevant to other readers here now Le Tonkinoise has been introduced, so I'll ask here anyway.  I have my Le Tonk ready to re varnish some exterior bits: cratch boards which have been yacht varnished and seating which has been previously treated with Sadolin. Is there a more efficient/effective way to prepare the wood ready to apply Le Tonk than sanding right back to remove all the previous coating (with the associated loss of material)? 

Good to see that lovely dog box again WotEver!

Nice work W+T!

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9 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

No wish to hijack this thread, but the answers might be relevant to other readers here now Le Tonkinoise has been introduced, so I'll ask here anyway.  I have my Le Tonk ready to re varnish some exterior bits: cratch boards which have been yacht varnished and seating which has been previously treated with Sadolin. Is there a more efficient/effective way to prepare the wood ready to apply Le Tonk than sanding right back to remove all the previous coating (with the associated loss of material)? 

Good to see that lovely dog box again WotEver!

Nice work W+T!

I guess you have read this then, it says the old treatments don need to be fully sanded back unless in bad condition. 

I think all it needs is a quick sand down to get rid of loose bits and give  a key for the first coat, as you would any first coat. 

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/varfaq.html

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4 minutes ago, W+T said:

I guess you have read this then, it says the old treatments don need to be fully sanded back unless in bad condition. 

I think all it needs is a quick sand down to get rid of loose bits and give  a key for the first coat, as you would any first coat. 

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/varfaq.html

Thanks for the reply.  I have read the website stuff but I'm worried that I'll still have a bit of a problem with colouration issues where the old coating has failed if I just flat back and re coat.  The bottom of the cratch board flaked a bit so I did  patch up repair with yacht varnish to see me through the winter and it's pretty obviously a different colour to the still sound finish. I want to make sure the Le Tonk finish is even - and as nice as yours!  I wondered about taking it to a door stripper, but I don't think that would be good. It just seems a bit drastic (and hard work!) to sand it right back to bare, evenly coloured wood. As varnishing woodwork isn't my forte, I just thought I'd ask before I make a wrong assumption! 

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I would agree with the idea of using Iroko for the box, teak is better but heart stoppingly expensive. Like the deck light in the photo you would be well advised to have it flush glazed with double glazing.  The flush glazing removes the need for retaining beads and drainage channels to get rainwater off the glass. Maintenance will be reduced if you have a tailored cover with transparent top surface for overwintering.

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7 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

Thanks for the reply.  I have read the website stuff but I'm worried that I'll still have a bit of a problem with colouration issues where the old coating has failed if I just flat back and re coat.  The bottom of the cratch board flaked a bit so I did  patch up repair with yacht varnish to see me through the winter and it's pretty obviously a different colour to the still sound finish. I want to make sure the Le Tonk finish is even - and as nice as yours!  I wondered about taking it to a door stripper, but I don't think that would be good. It just seems a bit drastic (and hard work!) to sand it right back to bare, evenly coloured wood. As varnishing woodwork isn't my forte, I just thought I'd ask before I make a wrong assumption! 

Ah i see. I am not all up on it either but by sounds it will need a sand right back. These work tops were a pig and in some areas still had to do more but you cant tell to much. What ever was used in some areas if really soaked into the wood.

If you can do it yourself bit by bit, help to keep your sanity if you detest sanding. You will need to wait until summer anyway to do it. 

 

Or as you mention a pro jab is best then;)

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2 hours ago, W+T said:

These work tops were a pig...

Thanks again for the reply.  Those worktops came up pretty well then - you've certainly put some effort into that boat and it's good to see that work paying off for you.

(I thought I was up early! My excuse is a power cut at 0450 what's yours?) :)

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You need to read the instructions though. I applied Le Tonkinous to my timber hatches two years ago. It was quite warm and it dried very quickly so I gave it two coats in a day. 6 coats in all. Early next year it was peeling. I spoken to the importer and he said you must prepare properly and only one coat in 24 hours. I did them again and this time it has stayed on and still looks great. My front and rear decks are timber and they have been treated with Le Tonkinous. So far 6 years no issues but I am only leisure boater and they are covered when not in use. Expensive but great stuff.

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2 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

Thanks again for the reply.  Those worktops came up pretty well then - you've certainly put some effort into that boat and it's good to see that work paying off for you.

(I thought I was up early! My excuse is a power cut at 0450 what's yours?) :)

Yep at long last. Happy with the work top.

Dreading doing the cabin in it. 

Third birthday soon for Faffer:) up before 3am for work. Wont be doing any of that soon I hope in new career works out.

1 hour ago, Old Son said:

You need to read the instructions though. I applied Le Tonkinous to my timber hatches two years ago. It was quite warm and it dried very quickly so I gave it two coats in a day. 6 coats in all. Early next year it was peeling. I spoken to the importer and he said you must prepare properly and only one coat in 24 hours. I did them again and this time it has stayed on and still looks great. My front and rear decks are timber and they have been treated with Le Tonkinous. So far 6 years no issues but I am only leisure boater and they are covered when not in use. Expensive but great stuff.

It' easy to use and works a treat. As you have found though. I did it by the book and a coat every 24hrs. 

I agree not cheap but you get what you pay for.

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12 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

The bottom of the cratch board flaked a bit so I did  patch up repair with yacht varnish to see me through the winter and it's pretty obviously a different colour to the still sound finish. I want to make sure the Le Tonk finish is even

You’ve answered you own question really. Any finish is only a covering over the wood, so if you want the finished product to appear even then you have to start off with an even colouring. In your case that means sand everything back to bare wood so that it all looks the same before you start to apply the finish. 

Follow the Le Tonk instructions and very lightly flatten with fine paper between each coat. External work really benefits from multiple coats, six or seven being ideal in my experience. 

11 hours ago, Mike Jordan said:

I would agree with the idea of using Iroko for the box, teak is better but heart stoppingly expensive

On your tooling too. It doesn’t half blunt blades quickly. 

And it’s difficult to glue to boot. 

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49 minutes ago, WotEver said:

You’ve answered you own question really.

That's what I was afraid of.  However, I didn't want to go to what is clearly going to be quite a lot of bother and then find I should have used "Acme varnish stripper" or simply wiped it with a tea bag!  Thanks WotEver. 

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