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Sanddancer

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For getting it back to bare steel you want an angle grinder- with a sanding pad and a selection of abrasive discs to fit or a tercoo blaster,  both plus  a saucer shape knotted wire brush depending on how big an area.  A scabbler is better/quicker-  really good for large areas but won't sand or get into any pits and isn't good at corners.  Get one with carbide teeth if there is much rust.

Treat rust with Fertan or Vactan used as it says on the tin.

For the between coats sanding you need - a random orbital sander (or  DA) .  NOT an ordinary orbital sander.  You will also need a selection of stikit discs to suit, most these days have holes and a Velcro type back, so you need buy ones  to match the pad hole pattern and to  have a hook type pad.  Try to get a 150 mm/6 in one as they cover the ground quicker than the DIY 125 mm/5in ones and will last longer- a boat is a big area to sand off.   Cheap stuff doesn't usually last.   Mirka do a really good Low Voltage sander with a dust collector as well, but they are dear.  Their Abranet abrasives are good too, but then  so are 3M. 

Worth asking your local car body shop whose discs they use and where their supplier is.

N

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I'm not sure any normal sander type is a particularly effective way of removing all paintwork back to steel.

Lots of grief with clogged papers, I would have thought.

A scabbler is the usually recommended weapon of choice, though I have never used one.

Where we have gone back to steel, I have used an angle grinder with suitable abrasive disks.  Far faster than any orbital sander, and disks last far far longer.

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4 hours ago, Robbo said:

Follow the above video series for a good guide on painting ya boat.

And then go on one of Phil Speight’s courses and find out how to do it properly ;)

Sadly he’s retired to Scotland, so you can’t any more. Does Dave Moore offer similar courses, anyone know?

Edited by WotEver
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Hi all

i used to run courses, though only in signwriting and decorative painting. I’ve never taught coach painting, left it to others....to get a decent job is weeks of graft and meticulous preparation, preferably under cover. Bengo’s advice is sound, in my experience. Certainly buy decent tools, my d a sander, a Bosch professional, has been invaluable for years. One of my customers some years ago attempted a self repaint using DIY sanders....and was soon seeking to borrow more robust gear from the resident painter at the yard he was moored at. In many years of painting, I’ve only known a handful of owner paint jobs that come close to a decent professional finish, though I applaud any owner willing to have a go. Good luck!

 

Dave

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As far as an orbital sander (DA) is concerned I would suggest you consider a Bosch 150 (6") GEX?.I think they cost between £150 and £200. I've had one for a number of years and it's done a fair amount of hard work and the dust extraction/filter works. (it also bounces off a concrete floor:D) Spares are also readily available. Buy discs in boxes of 100. Any lesser quantities is false economy.

 

Frank

 

Fr 

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And last year watched two seperate fellow moorers trying to remove paint along each of their boats roof in prep with sander, grinders and low volume blaster etc. Painfully slow. And crap.

Edited by mark99
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Tercoo 

http://tercoo-rotating-blaster.co.uk/

Expensive but good. 

http://tercoo-rotating-blaster.co.uk/on-line-shop/4552694100

Recommend the triple for larger areas and single for smaller jobs, works with a standard drill. 

Just be careful not to hit any raised edges I. E. Rubbing strake edges etc as this will kill the teeth in no time. 

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41 minutes ago, reg said:

Tercoo 

http://tercoo-rotating-blaster.co.uk/

Expensive but good. 

http://tercoo-rotating-blaster.co.uk/on-line-shop/4552694100

Recommend the triple for larger areas and single for smaller jobs, works with a standard drill. 

Just be careful not to hit any raised edges I. E. Rubbing strake edges etc as this will kill the teeth in no time. 

Also, as it will tell you in the instructions, DO NOT PRESS ON HARD. Just sit the Terco on the paint gently and it will remove it just as well as pressing hard but without destroying the disk. 

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28 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Also, as it will tell you in the instructions, DO NOT PRESS ON HARD. Just sit the Terco on the paint gently and it will remove it just as well as pressing hard but without destroying the disk. 

Good point. Took me a while to get used to that, once you get used to it though you just end basically guiding the drill. First day I used them my forearms got stiff with trying to press down and control the drill movement. Good example of letting the tool do the job. 

Brilliant tool though. 

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22 hours ago, WotEver said:

And then go on one of Phil Speight’s courses and find out how to do it properly ;)

Sadly he’s retired to Scotland, so you can’t any more. Does Dave Moore offer similar courses, anyone know?

I believe Phil is still doing courses, and they are running a number at Bollington Boatyard

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