Ignition barrel failing

[MtB]

10 hours ago, cuthound said:

My 1964 Mini Cooper S

 

Fantastic car. Respect!

 

10 hours ago, cuthound said:

My 1965 Riley Elf

 

Now you've COMPLETELY spoiled it!

[cuthound]

7 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Fantastic car. Respect!

 

 

Now you've COMPLETELY spoiled it!

The Riley Elf was my first car. It was replaced with a Mk 3 Cortina.

The Cooper S supplemented the Cortina and, after getting the shell seam welded and a roll cage fitted, plus 40 thou overbore 731 cam and limited slip diff became my rally car.

Unfortunately I quickly realised I lacked budget and talent so gave up rallying after a couple of years. 

[Eeyore]

On 10/02/2018 at 20:16, Chalkhill Blue 2 said:

OK. Thanks for your help guys.  The behaviour has now moved on since cleaning all the connections as instructed.

I turn the ignition key and nothing happens, so I keep it turned and after a few or even many seconds the engine turns over and fires up straight away.

Any thoughts?

Cheers, Neil

 

Did the cleaning also include the blade type fuses that are usually found alongside the relays? The start protection fuse can be 15amp (blue) or 25 amps (clear) depending on the age of the engine, it should be in the handbook. They are basically the same type of connection as the relays, so can be cleaned the same way. The wiring on Barrus engines is by no means the worst out there, but is one of the most complicated (for what it does). Mounting relays directly to the engine is generally unpopular with those who have to fix them; the vibration and opportunity for fuel, oil and antifreeze contamination makes them prime targets for early failure.

[Guest]

2 hours ago, Eeyore said:

Did the cleaning also include the blade type fuses that are usually found alongside the relays? The start protection fuse can be 15amp (blue) or 25 amps (clear) depending on the age of the engine, it should be in the handbook. They are basically the same type of connection as the relays, so can be cleaned the same way. The wiring on Barrus engines is by no means the worst out there, but is one of the most complicated (for what it does). Mounting relays directly to the engine is generally unpopular with those who have to fix them; the vibration and opportunity for fuel, oil and antifreeze contamination makes them prime targets for early failure.

Glad you said that about relays on engines. It has always seemed rather unwise to me.

[Tony Brooks]

12 hours ago, Eeyore said:

Did the cleaning also include the blade type fuses that are usually found alongside the relays? The start protection fuse can be 15amp (blue) or 25 amps (clear) depending on the age of the engine, it should be in the handbook. They are basically the same type of connection as the relays, so can be cleaned the same way. The wiring on Barrus engines is by no means the worst out there, but is one of the most complicated (for what it does). Mounting relays directly to the engine is generally unpopular with those who have to fix them; the vibration and opportunity for fuel, oil and antifreeze contamination makes them prime targets for early failure.

Which is why if I had a an engine like that some modifications would be undertaken PDQ. If I felt the ignition switch was up to the job I would run a new thicker cables to the glowplugs (if fitted) and starter solenoid - probably bypassing the big multi-plug. At the very least I would move any relays and fuses off the engine. I would definitely consider BIzz's idea about car type starter solenoids in place of the relay but again off the engine.

[Eeyore]

7 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Which is why if I had a an engine like that some modifications would be undertaken PDQ. If I felt the ignition switch was up to the job I would run a new thicker cables to the glowplugs (if fitted) and starter solenoid - probably bypassing the big multi-plug. At the very least I would move any relays and fuses off the engine. I would definitely consider BIzz's idea about car type starter solenoids in place of the relay but again off the engine.

Just what I did with my (very) early Lister Canalstar in my first boat, and what I would also recommend to Neil on Chalkhill Blue as and when the current installation becomes uneconomical to fix.

Edited February 13, 2018 by Eeyore

[Guest]

This is a job that I haven't got around to on the Vetus yet (give me a break, I've only had it 14 years.) I planned to stay with relays for g/plugs and starter but off the engine and use those large 100A Durite jobbies that some use for split charging. Overkill but they are cheap and easily available, and can use proper crimp rings on load conductors rather than horrible spades (and I have two in my bits box.) I also would use a push button for the heaters rather than a key switch position, then it would be possible to keep the heaters on for a few seconds after starting if needed (my mate's BMC is thus and it works well.)

[Eeyore]

Hi Neil, any update on this?

[Chalkhill Blue 2]

1 hour ago, Eeyore said:

Hi Neil, any update on this?

Hi there. To start her up I turn the ignition key to the start position (after waiting for glow plug light to extinguish). Nothing happens so I then let the key turn back very slightly and is starts as usual. Ignition barrel failing? Thanks for asking

[Tony Brooks]

Despite there being no external signs of heat damage that certainly sounds like a switch (not barrel) problem.

[Phil Ambrose]

13 hours ago, Chalkhill Blue 2 said:

Hi there. To start her up I turn the ignition key to the start position (after waiting for glow plug light to extinguish). Nothing happens so I then let the key turn back very slightly and is starts as usual. Ignition barrel failing? Thanks for asking

Like I said in my earlier post, invest in a new ignition switch, not expensive and all the clues are there that your switch is failing. It could fail completely when you are miles from anywhere

Phil 

[Chalkhill Blue 2]

8 minutes ago, Phil Ambrose said:

Like I said in my earlier post, invest in a new ignition switch, not expensive and all the clues are there that your switch is failing. It could fail completely when you are miles from anywhere

Phil 

Yup, sourcing this week

[Phil Ambrose]

Just now, Chalkhill Blue 2 said:

Yup, sourcing this week

As Del Boy said.....You know it makes sense.

Phil 

[WotEver]

5 hours ago, Phil Ambrose said:

As Del Boy said.....You know it makes sense.

Phil 

aujourd'hui mon ami, aujourd'hui

[Chalkhill Blue 2]