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13amp rcd have I got the right use


bigcol

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Hi Bigcol

      If the wire has melted near a terminal it would seem that the terminal screw had not been tightened sufficiently or worked loose.

This would cause local 'arcing' & overheating & lead to the problems you have observed.

If you have enough spare loose cable then re make the connection using a bootlace terminal as recommended.

Do check that the screw terminal is not damaged also, as if so it may need replacing also.

Tony

 

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13 minutes ago, brassedoff said:

Get a qualified electrician to do the job OP, if theirs a fire your not insured or injured or worse.

 

Don't think I am being finicky, I bought a a 16 amp power input and a consumer unit to bypass my inverter shawline connection after a fire.

 

I still have them in their packets. 

NOT worth touching electrics for life never mind the cost. (If not marine qualified) at least for insurance.

 

 

Wtf ? Yes if your not sure get someone in but this is utter tripe sorry to be so blunt...but I am a northerner

marine qualified ? What are you blathering about ? 

If you aren’t sure the then ask about get recommendations like you would for any tradesmen but if some one claims to be marine qualified move on....

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4 hours ago, bigcol said:

Yep thankyou

i have in place rcd board. And breakers

i also am plugged in to a 16 amp supply

the shore supply Mtr dosent seam to trip

i want this as a fail safe 

ive had the neutral 240 wire from the supply melt. Last week, it’s been okay for the last 8 years never happened before.

im also going to replace the main cable with a thicker cable, it’s the blue thick marine 3 wire cable as used on the leads.

as a competent electrician put the system in place, I’m going to put this on as a secondary fail safe.

 

i was asking a question re the neutral wire, and yes I got it wrong. Shoot me, But sometimes folks need advice.

in no way would I do somthing that I haven’t had advice or help with, even googled be fore I do somthing.

 

ive had recommended tradesman in my life, and some displayed jack shit I’m afraid.

only some seemed competent.

 

col

 

 

,

58698FD9-8834-46D2-BDBE-151742E283CB.jpeg

This looks like GS controls jobbie the Rcd is actually an RCBO and looks to be rated at 16A so combines the function of MCB and RCD

so not sure why you think you need a fuse as well ? 

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5 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

You do not put single pole breakers in the neutral wire - they would go in the live wire.

It's ard to see how you can have melted the neutral wire with over current without doing the same to the live, (unless they are not the same thickness of course!)  What you are saying (and asking) is all a bit worrying.
---------------------------------------------------------
Well, British Gas have just installed a new (not Smart) meter in my Mother's house, the new cables from the DNO's fuse to the meter are live (brown)25mm  and neutral (blue) 16mm. The excuse being there was no 25mm blue cable on the van. This is an all-electric house with heavy heating loads. They have  also built in other problems related to Economy 7  tariff . They are professionals I'm told, are they  equally as safe with gas installations ? Sorry if it's a bit off topic....

 

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24 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

Wtf ? Yes if your not sure get someone in but this is utter tripe sorry to be so blunt...but I am a northerner

marine qualified ? What are you blathering about ? 

If you aren’t sure the then ask about get recommendations like you would for any tradesmen but if some one claims to be marine qualified move on....

I am a northerner don't be so fk rude.

Go blow 're self up.

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1 hour ago, billh said:

It's ard to see how you can have melted the neutral wire with over current without doing the same to the live, (unless they are not the same thickness of course!) 

The most likely explanation is a poor connection, where a screw terminal or similar isn't as tight as it should have been.

It's a very common problem, especially on high power items such as electric showers etc.

I might suggest the OP tightens up the terminal. He should also use a ferrule as per regs/rules.

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6 hours ago, billh said:

British Gas have just installed a new (not Smart) meter in my Mother's house, the new cables from the DNO's fuse to the meter are live (brown)25mm  and neutral (blue) 16mm. The excuse being there was no 25mm blue cable on the van. This is an all-electric house with heavy heating loads.

16mm is good for >85A and I’d be amazed if the intake fuse is larger than 60A (more likely 40A), so I don’t see the problem. 

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Had somone out this morning,tested electrics through out boat with a small black box.

checked blue wire that belong to the Generator, incorrect cable, wires within were black. This to be replaced with the proper cable.

The boat side now trips 

land line box, this also trips when drawing too many amps.

 

thankyou all, the blue wire that had a 2 inch melt,  belonged to the Generator cable

 

again thankyou

 

 

  • Greenie 1
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6 hours ago, WotEver said:

16mm is good for >85A and I’d be amazed if the intake fuse is larger than 60A (more likely 40A), so I don’t see the problem. 

I have never seen one that low, 60A yes, Just looked at mine and that is 60A but if I had all electric heating and the possibility of the cooker being used at the same time I think it may struggle.

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7 hours ago, WotEver said:

16mm is good for >85A and I’d be amazed if the intake fuse is larger than 60A (more likely 40A), so I don’t see the problem. 

 

Most houses are wired in 25mm and have a 100A company fuse.  If they used a 16mm tail then they should have changed the Company fuse to 60A.

A 60A company fuse is on the low side if you have all heating, a shower, cooker and other circuits. There are rules on loading and diversity. It's not something I would accept and be on the phone to my supplier PDQ.

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13 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Just as an aside - we have a 400 amp 'company fuse' and 415 volts Input

It did cost us £20,000 for new pole mounted transformer and they wanted an additional £5000 to run the underground cable (but I laid it myself)

 

 

I would imagine the electric bill would be of the same magnitude even if only a fraction of that capacity is used.

Edited by Mikexx
Can't speel
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3 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

I have never seen one that low, 60A yes, Just looked at mine and that is 60A but if I had all electric heating and the possibility of the cooker being used at the same time I think it may struggle.

Our last house was 40A. This one, built in 1993, is 60A. 

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