Winterising a "Whisper Power" inboard generator????

[Movin' on]

I have never owned anything raw water cooled so this is unknown territory for me................

Our latest boat has a "Whisper Power" inboard cocooned generator set which is raw water cooled and mounted well inside the boat under the bed - do I need to winterise it - if so how??

The "seacocks" are both closed

I also don't have a handbook for it as yet....................hence this ill-informed question

Edited February 1, 2018 by Halsey
accuracy

[Tony Brooks]

It will be just like any other engines using a similar cooling system.

You say raw water cooled but that could be direct raw water cooled or heat exchanger cooled. You also do not say if its for a live-a-board or holiday boat and say where on the boat the generator is situated.

My guess is its probably heat exchanger cooled but could well be wrong. If so the engine should have antifreeze in it so that just leaves the raw water part. Typically then turn off sea inlet, drain the exhaust manifold jacket, loosen or remove the "Jabsco" raw water pump cover to drain it.  If you have a remote raw water strainer drain it or dry it out in some way as well. If it has any oil coolers or a heat exchanger remote from the manifold those would need draining as well.

If its in an engine room in a warm boat the above may well not be required.

PS topic may be wrong, a Whispergen is a different thing.

[Movin' on]

Thanks - I did in fact comment about location - its under the bed - direct water cooled I think - general use boat neither live-aboard or holiday - we cruise app 7 months a year and usually do app 700 locks - only had the boat a few days so I'll do some more digging about to get closer to understanding your points.

Re the topic error - now changed

Thanks!

Edited February 1, 2018 by Halsey

[Tony Brooks]

Under the bed should go  along way towards protecting the raw water system from frost when you are on the boat and heating it so when you are aboard there may be no winterisation to do as far as frost is concerned. I have read about taking injectors out and putting storage oil into the bores but I would never do that because of the dangers of hydraulic lock damage. I also understand some agricultural equipment suppliers say you should drain and inhibit the fuel system but I think that’s overkill for a 5 month lay up - if that is what you do.

I would visit the boat occasionally and run both engines for several hours so they get nice and hot. However if you need to drain the generator down to prevent frost damage that's not an option.

[Old Son]

11 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

I would visit the boat occasionally and run both engines for several hours so they get nice and hot. However if you need to drain the generator down to prevent frost damage that's not an option.

Tony, I am surprised to hear this. I was taught that the worst wear that occurs to an engine is when it is started up. I change my oil, check my antifreeze and put a quilt over the engine (cruiser stern) then don't touch until April/May depending on the weather. There could be a severe frost 10 hours after you have run your engine and by then the engine is cold again. What would you have achieved?

[Tony Brooks]

Although modern oil tend to "stick" to surfaces far better than older ones we tend to use older oil specifications . You will not that I said run for several hours so they get nice and hot. By doing that any condensation formed inside the cold engine plus the condensation formed when you start a cold engine should be evaporated away and the cylinders and pistons will also get re-coated in oil which will help combat corrosion.

A further point is that unless told (which I was not in this case). I do not know how the batteries are charged. A typical lead acid battery will self discharge by up to (from memory) 8% per month. That is dependant on a number of factors so will differ from battery to battery. If you lay up for 6 months that means your risk trying to start it with an all but half discharged battery. By running for several hours you ensure the batteries are kept well charged. Also remember that now we are using low sulphur fuel the acids produced when starting a cold engine will be reduced.

It is nothing to do with frost, that is what the antifreeze and draining any raw water is for.

As with most things its a balance and one tries to make an informed decision. Its a bit like do you change the oil and filters at lay up or in the spring.

Edited February 2, 2018 by Tony Brooks

[Momac]

If you have shore power a low wattage frost protection tube heater may be of interest. They are avaiable with a built in thermostat.

The winter is almost over. Slight frosts a couple of degres below freezing are not a real threat to the engine of a  boat in the water. 

[system 4-50]

2 hours ago, MartynG said:

The winter is almost over.

Can I have that in writing please!

[Movin' on]

3 hours ago, MartynG said:

If you have shore power a low wattage frost protection tube heater may be of interest......................

I agree - I have used them for years 1 for each 10 ft of boat cabin

Cheers

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, Halsey said:

I agree - I have used them for years 1 for each 10 ft of boat cabin

Cheers

But once again I must advise that you read and understand all the small print in your insurance documents because it was reported here than one marine insurance company would void the policy if you left non-marine approved heaters on when you are not aboard.

[Movin' on]

Noted with thanks - this assumes a basic premise that insurance companies pay out....................

I'll keep on protecting my boat

But I will have a read............

 

Edited February 2, 2018 by Halsey

[Slim]

Quick question, do you know the make of engine and / or alternator.

I think that  some Whisper Power (or similar name) generators were basically Pagaros badged. If this is what you've got I can give you some pretty detailed guidance.

I did type out far more but hit a wrong key and lost the lot

 

Frank