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Perkins 4108 oil temperature for oil change


Kendorr

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Time to do an oil change on my 4108. I've borrowed an oil pump which says the oil should be 40 C maximum. Can anyone tell me how long I should run the engine for to get the oil thin enough to pump out, but not above 40 C?

Also, should I remove the filter as I start, or after the engine has been drained?

 

Thanks, Kevin

Edited by Kev's Halcyon
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I change my oil after a days run, moor up and stop the engine, then go for a cup of tea followed by sorting myself and the bits out to do the oil/filter change. It makes it easier to suck the oil out if you remove the filler cap. On my engine I don't think you would get oil running out if you did the filter first, but I always pump the oil out first, just the way I do it.

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Some oil will flow out when the filter comes off drained or not in most cases, especially with spin on filters. The oil should be a shot as possible so its easier to drain but not so hot it scalds you. I say hot enough to make it uncomfortable to hold your hand on the sump.

I drain first, then remove the filter, clean up, and fit new filter to give time for any residual oil to drip into the sump and then re-drain.

Remember the capacity in the manual is rarely correct, it usually overstates the amount of oil required so ALWAYS go by the dipstick unless you have a very good reason not to.

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Thanks folks. I had been told to get oil as hot as possible, but the instructions state -

'Oil pump operate only within the temperature range of 0 - 40 C'

It also states not to pump hot oil and the engine must cool completely. Later they say to only operate when the engine is warm as hot oil can melt the hose.

As I've borrowed the pump, I'd prefer to give it back in good condition!!

Kevin

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What is this pump you borrowed? The "on engine" oil pumps fitted by marinisers have never had  a problem doing oil changes as described but are hard work with cold oil. If its a "Pella" type suction device then it will take absolutely ages to suck cold oil out of a 4-108 because the viscosity will be  far higher than a cold oil for modern cars etc. If its a "down the dipstick" pump then why not change any rubber/plastic hose for copper pipe but I am sure the oil will still need to be very warm.

If its an electric pump then I think I would give it back unused and buy a Pella type oil changer. I have not been impressed with the longevity of the consumer versions of such pumps.

Pella type units are also good for draining the bottom of narrowboat fuel tanks.

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17 minutes ago, Kev's Halcyon said:

I strongly suspect that's going to be very little use at all.

Particularly if you comply with....

Quote

we recommend a short break after 10 minutes continuous usage to allow the unit to cool

 

(But would be interested to hear is my suspicions prove wrong.  I would still factor in the possibility you might have to buy a replacement for whoever you have borrowed it from though, in case your oil proves too much for it!)

Edited by alan_fincher
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I think that you may well burn it out with oil, especially cold oil. Its a diesel pump, not oil pump. Oil will load the motor far more than diesel so the motor will slow down. The slower most electric motors run the more current they draw so they get hotter. I know they say motor oil but there is a lot of difference in viscosity between 5W15 and 20W50 that has a high carbon content.

I think the manual pump is a good call.

Get the oil hot when using the Pella and make sure the Bowden cable outer sits just clear of the bottom of the sump until the last dregs. The Pella may collapse the plastic tube if the oi is too hot but I have never known it. The steel in the Bowden outer will ensure it holds its  shape.

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If you run your engine up to operating temp the oil should be thin enough to pump out as said in an earlier post a good time would be at the end of a days running if you prepare he bits & pieces  before hand & remove the filter after draining the oil If its a element filter check you are using the correct rubber washers "O" rings as there is often parts for other engines as the filter fits different units

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Oil change done, all nice and easy. Managed to suck a full 5L out of the engine, plus the bit that came out with the filter. Ahhh, the filter!! A few years ago I had a conversion fitted which changes the old paper filter to a screw on. I only buy genuine Perkins filters. If anyone else has a similar set-up, be aware that the filter unscrews in a clockwise direction!! I managed to tighten it up so much by trying to unscrew it anti-clockwise that I had to borrow a filter removal strap, and even then, it took some doing.

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Are you sure?

If its a vertical filter and you are looking down onto the head it will LOOK as if it unscrewed clockwise but look at it from the filter end and it will be anticlockwise. We always had end less problems with student trying to undo nuts with the stud pointing away from them. It took some months to understand why it looked as if they undid it clockwise. Others got it almost instantly.

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The filter is vertical, when looking down onto the part with the threaded hole in, I expected to unscrew it anti-clockwise, but it came off clockwise. Unfortunately, pics I've got at home don't show the filter as it's obscured. The image shows the conversion I've had fitted and the filter screws on in the orientation it is on the pic.

4.108_oil_filter_con__65031.1510010503.jpg

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