Midno1r Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Hi there, This is my first post so if you need clarifications, please ask. My girlfriend wanted a wooden floor on our Springer so I fitted a hardfloor that can be removed. A couple of months ago I noticed water remaining trapped between the floor and the wood panels. I thought it was condensation and checked all pipes. Everything was normal. Today I stripped the kitchen section and found a hatch. I removed thde "lid" ( a piece of wood with a hole) and found stones ( which I am assuming to be the ballards). The whole insert was covered by a inch of water. I removed some stones and noticed heavy flaking due to rust. I pumped out the water (hand pump) and now I am left with a dilemma: Do I need to remove all the rust, apply a rust converter, prime it and paint it? Am I risking by removing the rust? Boat is a V shape, completely overplated 3 years ago to top standards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmelly Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 10 minutes ago, Midno1r said: Hi there, This is my first post so if you need clarifications, please ask. My girlfriend wanted a wooden floor on our Springer so I fitted a hardfloor that can be removed. A couple of months ago I noticed water remaining trapped between the floor and the wood panels. I thought it was condensation and checked all pipes. Everything was normal. Today I stripped the kitchen section and found a hatch. I removed thde "lid" ( a piece of wood with a hole) and found stones ( which I am assuming to be the ballards). The whole insert was covered by a inch of water. I removed some stones and noticed heavy flaking due to rust. I pumped out the water (hand pump) and now I am left with a dilemma: Do I need to remove all the rust, apply a rust converter, prime it and paint it? Am I risking by removing the rust? Boat is a V shape, completely overplated 3 years ago to top standards. It would be good to wire brush it off or something similar and I find waxoyl is an excellent substance to coat shell interiors with. However I feel you are wasting your time this time of year and at present I would just take the water out and wait for the summer then take boards up and get it very dry before doing anything. If you have shore power blow heaters pointed down and all windows doors open works a treat. If the overplating is as good as you think it is then you have no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty69 Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 (edited) I would remove the water and keep a close eye on the bilge before any painting/de-rusting. Make sure you can stop the source of water (if indeed there is one) first, unless its meant to be a wet bilge boat. Edited January 12, 2018 by rusty69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midno1r Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 18 minutes ago, Midno1r said: Overplating has been done up to standard. 2 years later readings were 4.8mm so I am not too worried. Boat has been dry docked in july for a rudder job and hull looked in good condition. Boat is 31 years old -hence the overplating. It will be dry docked again in 2 months for blacking so if anything will arise we will be able to deal with it. Yes, i will most likely wait amd keep the compartment dry for the time being. Thank you very much The wet bilge is at the stern -this was the compromise adopted by Springer as V shape tollerate a wet bilge. Water wasn't meant to be there and the flaking is what might cause some worry. Obviously I will deal with it in due time -i.e. summer- unless it becomes urgent. Thanks for the reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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