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fan for fridge


kingswood

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32 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

In view of this:

I still suspect it might well be a levelling issue nut that assumes the void the fridge sits in is adequately vented and I am not just talking about the exhaust gasses. If there are no vents for ambient void air then that's the first thing I would install. High and low level louvred vents

Maybe, as it is not clear if it has ever got cold enough, either in the OP's possession, or previously.

But it might have developed a fault also, I think, and extra ventilation will probably not be the solution if it has.

I agree with you about adding as much natural ventilation as possible, provided the burner area is not subjected to actual through draughts if doors are open on a windy day.

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we have 3 way fridges in both our motorhome and caravan and both have large louvre vents about 100mm x 300mm at top and bottom the exhaust exits out of the top one and presume air is drawn in through the bottom one, they both freeze up if you set too high even in hot summer days so I think the instalation is wrong in the boat.

Neil

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52 minutes ago, Neil Smith said:

we have 3 way fridges in both our motorhome and caravan and both have large louvre vents about 100mm x 300mm at top and bottom the exhaust exits out of the top one and presume air is drawn in through the bottom one, they both freeze up if you set too high even in hot summer days so I think the instalation is wrong in the boat.

Neil

Your gas fridges in your caravans are room sealed and correctly installed with high and low level vents, almost impossible to do on a boat. The BSS no longer allows new installations of gas fridges on boats so Dometic have stopped making them for boats due to lack of demand.

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17 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Your gas fridges in your caravans are room sealed and correctly installed with high and low level vents, almost impossible to do on a boat. The BSS no longer allows new installations of gas fridges on boats so Dometic have stopped making them for boats due to lack of demand.

Please quote the relevant BSS item to substantiate this claim.

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22 minutes ago, system 4-50 said:

Please quote the relevant BSS item to substantiate this claim.

I'm sure you are quite capable of looking up the BSS regs.  If you can't, his may help  :-  http://www.waterwaysworld.com/questionspost.cgi?post=450

The bottom line is that BSS says the appliances must be installed as per the manufactures instructions and this is virtually impossible to comply with.

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6 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

I'm sure you are quite capable of looking up the BSS regs.  If you can't, his may help  :-  http://www.waterwaysworld.com/questionspost.cgi?post=450

The bottom line is that BSS says the appliances must be installed as per the manufactures instructions and this is virtually impossible to comply with.

 

What really happened was Dometic have never said their fridges are suitable for boats, not that they stopped making fridges suitable for boats due to lack of demand. 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
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28 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

I'm sure you are quite capable of looking up the BSS regs.  If you can't, his may help  :-  http://www.waterwaysworld.com/questionspost.cgi?post=450

The bottom line is that BSS says the appliances must be installed as per the manufactures instructions and this is virtually impossible to comply with.

I would ask you to post the exact reference from the latest BSS check list that says that.  I've just looked yet again, and can't immediately find any such reference.

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Any form of artificial draught on an open flued appliance will upset the combustion. The ventilation requirements specified by manufacturers are designed to ensure that the burner can draw its own combustion air for efficient operation.

A forced draught below the burner can 'overair' the burner, lifting the flame, and an evacuation fan in the compartment can deprive the burner of combustion air causing a 'dirty' flame. Both conditions are likely to produce excessive CO, the silent killer.

If it is a room sealed appliance, then a forced draught would not affect combustion.

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34 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:

I would ask you to post the exact reference from the latest BSS check list that says that.  I've just looked yet again, and can't immediately find any such reference.

I too have just checked again and like you I cannot see any such reference. The only caveat is for petrol powered boats. These require that:

The burners of LPG or paraffin refrigerators in a vessel with a petrol propulsion engine must be room‐sealed, or completely enclosed.

Obviously any gas powered appliance must have a FFD but I believe all fridges always have had. 

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6 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

Any form of artificial draught on an open flued appliance (added: burner) will upset the combustion. (An Ecofan blowing on a fridge door will not.) The ventilation requirements specified by manufacturers are designed to ensure that the burner can draw its own combustion air for efficient operation. (in the standard environment that the manufacturer cares to include in his scenario)

A (excessive  (how many Ecofan equivalents?)) forced draught below the burner can 'overair' the burner, lifting the flame, and an evacuation fan in the compartment (this is vague. How big is a compartment?) can deprive the burner of combustion air causing a 'dirty' flame. Both conditions are likely to produce excessive CO, the silent killer.

If it is a room sealed appliance, then a forced draught would not affect combustion.

I look forward to the day when stove manufacturers sell their stoves with the proviso that you must not burn anything in it.

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4 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

You can edit you post to say something like "changed my mind", or into just a single full stop. But no you cannot totally delete it.

Yes (to the full stop), I've done that before, but I'm out of time on this one. My coach has turned back into a pumpkin.

Edited by system 4-50
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7 hours ago, system 4-50 said:

Yes, I've done that before, but I'm out of time on this one. My coach has turned back into a pumpkin.

 

Now that's weird. Your post is only 19 hours old so ought still to be editable. 

Edit to add: this post is still editable after seven hours. 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
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4 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Now that's weird. Your post is only 19 hours old so ought still to be editable. 

The time during which you can edit a post seems to have been reduced?

Presumably for some reason, though I can't immediately imagine what.

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2 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Now that's weird. Your post is only 19 hours old so ought still to be editable. 

I find I can  only edit new for 60 minutes after posting.

I usually notice something wrong 61 minutes after posting, Grrr.

In my opinion they should remain editable for at least 24 hours after posting.

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On 12/30/2017 at 22:50, dor said:

Most compressor control units have a 'fan' connection which will only be live when the fridge is running.

Is this likely to apply to my 240v fridge please. If so is the control unit probably on the compressor? Not at the boat at the moment and can`t actually remember the make of fridge- I`m not much help really am I!!!! 

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10 minutes ago, jddevel said:

Is this likely to apply to my 240v fridge please. If so is the control unit probably on the compressor? Not at the boat at the moment and can`t actually remember the make of fridge- I`m not much help really am I!!!! 

It’s not likely to, no. 

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7 minutes ago, WotEver said:

It’s not likely to, no. 

I assume you mean no connections readily available? If not what is the best way to wire a fan/fans in please. Assuming that the fans are 12v and as stated the fridge I have is 240v. Thermostat to some sort of relay or 240v live from thermostat to 12v transformer and on to fan. Or are both these wrong and advice on a better way please.

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5 hours ago, cuthound said:

I find I can  only edit new for 60 minutes after posting.

I usually notice something wrong 61 minutes after posting, Grrr.

In my opinion they should remain editable for at least 24 hours after posting.

 

Perhaps you’ve been norty in the past!!

my posts remain editable for ages.  Much longer than an hour. I just edited my 7 hour old post to illustrate.  

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31 minutes ago, jddevel said:

I assume you mean no connections readily available? If not what is the best way to wire a fan/fans in please. Assuming that the fans are 12v and as stated the fridge I have is 240v. Thermostat to some sort of relay or 240v live from thermostat to 12v transformer and on to fan. Or are both these wrong and advice on a better way please.

If you know what you’re doing with mains then you can find the feed to the compressor - it’s quite likely to come from a chock block - and use the same connection to operate a 230V relay. ONLY DO THIS IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING WITH MAINS. YOU COULD KILL YOURSELF. 

The 230V relay then switches 12V for a fan. 

If you don’t understand the above, which I’ve kept intentionally brief, don’t do it. 

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