Batteries & charging

[Keeping Up]

Even the Bedazzled ones can sometimes wipe out the DAB radio. We have no problems with the bulb-shaped wall lights but the tube-shaped ones that replaced our fluorescents take out the signal in areas of weak reception. This may be because the wall lights are further from the radio aerial, and certainly the one tube that is nearest to the aerial is the only one that affects it. As we have 8 tubes I tried them all and selected the one that generated the least level of problems.

[mrsmelly]

1 hour ago, Ancient Mariner said:

Thanks for the "heads-up" on this GRLMK38. I haven't got round to buying the meter yet so I'll check out the one recommended by WotEver. Just a brief update on progress so far. I bought the Electroquest charger and fitted it a couple of weeks ago. It promptly sorted the uncertainty over the batteries as one (of my six domestic) immediately boiled and has now been removed from the bank. The rest seem to be charging properly and readings from the hydrometer suggest these are all OK although I haven't been able to get back to the boat for a couple of weeks to check.  I also set about changing to LED's and bought some (relatively) cheap ones from LED Hut. Sadly these interfered badly with my DAB radio so I'll be going with Bedazzled EMI free ones in the near future. So, all in all things are slowly moving forward with many thanks to all for your help.

With regards " The wife " My first wife was a higher maintainance model and could not possibly have lived on a boat or without a hair dryer. I traded her in for the current model in 1989 and I took a knock of half the house etc etc but in reality over the last 28 years it has definitely proved a very good investment and undoubtedly saved me money. This model is also robust and well built and does ALL the lock work leaving me onboard to do blokey things like driving the boat whereas wife number one would have been worried about her finger nails 

[Richard10002]

2 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

I traded her in for the current model in 1989 and I took a knock of half the house etc etc 

Assuming that she is still around, I wonder if she currently says:

"I traded him in for the current model, and I took a knock of half the house etc. etc...." ?

[mrsmelly]

12 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:

Assuming that she is still around, I wonder if she currently says:

"I traded him in for the current model, and I took a knock of half the house etc. etc...." ?

She is still around, we get on ok,  but she is only female so her opinion doesn't count anyway.

[Quaysider]

you're missing the obvious and more rewarding solution here...

 

Ditch the wife and get a husband.... we're much easier and our hair dries in no time!

[smileypete]

9 hours ago, nicknorman said:

Major booboo mr Pete - that one only does AC current!

Description is wrong:

http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail.aspx?ProductsID=712&ProductsCateId=773&CateId=773

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/

Can be had up to £10 cheaper from a China based seller but harder to go wrong buying from Amazon, though I'm not keen on them.

ETA: Found an Amazon seller with the right description, plus they're £3 cheaper at £32:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ

Edited January 26, 2018 by smileypete

[GRLMK38]

I can take no credit for finding this device but it is somewhat legendary on the 12 volt boating Facebook group thanks to Phil B-L.  

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-120V-300A-Wireless-Volt-Ammeter-Power-Meter-battery-Charge-discharge-capacity/172278832577?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Ordered and delivered within 2 weeks.

My Smartgauge tells me my SoC but not my actual capacity.  With this device I can measure drain aH and charge aH which enables me to calculate the actual capacity based on the remaining SoC from the SG.  From that I can get an idea of the true state of my batteries.  

Well worth £23 + a few extra bits to fit it.

P.S. It shows Volts, Amps and Power in real time which may negate the need for a clamp meter.

Edited January 27, 2018 by GRLMK38

[WotEver]

2 hours ago, GRLMK38 said:

I can take no credit for finding this device...

Yes, it’s been mentioned on here several times. Not the most intuitive device to set up and it comes with truly appalling Chinglish instructions. It appears to be reasonably accurate.  

If Phil is such a fan, perhaps he might like to write some installation instructions for it. 

[GRLMK38]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Yes, it’s been mentioned on here several times. Not the most intuitive device to set up and it comes with truly appalling Chinglish instructions. It appears to be reasonably accurate.  

If Phil is such a fan, perhaps he might like to write some installation instructions for it. 

I agree, the instructions supplied are only good for recycling.  The Facebook group I referred to has installation instructions and a calibration (the key bit) documents stored in the Files section available to Members. 

Basically it's a shunt between the domestic negative connection and all other negative cables, a +12v fused feed (2A) to the shunt and a USB cable between the shunt and the display.  The shunt is the intelligent part so even if the display is disconnected, all of the data is retained. Once I had done battle with 95mm sq cable (which I now know to be OTT), the set up was straight forward.

If you don't have access to the Facebook group I have my interpretation of the files that I am willing to share.

[WotEver]

2 hours ago, GRLMK38 said:

If you don't have access to the Facebook group I have my interpretation of the files that I am willing to share.

I’m not bothered myself but others might appreciate you posting them. It’s not the wiring of it that folk have found difficult, it’s understanding what the various functions do and how to set them up. It took Wayne several days just to get the basics right. 

[GRLMK38]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

I’m not bothered myself but others might appreciate you posting them. It’s not the wiring of it that folk have found difficult, it’s understanding what the various functions do and how to set them up. It took Wayne several days just to get the basics right. 

I produced this based on original work by Peter Clarkson and Steve Pipe published on Facebook for my own use but I cannot see any reason why it can't be shared.  It brings together the installation and calibration process for the basic functions i.e. voltage, current and power measurement (under/over protection and external relay functionality has been ignored).  I have omitted to state that the display can be set to power off automatically after 10-60 seconds using the SET function on the display as the default is permanently on.

For obvious reasons, I do not accept any liability for any installation issues caused by using the device or any installations not performed by myself.

Installation of the DC 120V 300A Wireless Volt Ammeter Power Meter.docx

[WotEver]

@W+T you might want to read the above doc

[W+T]

On 1/27/2018 at 19:57, WotEver said:

@W+T you might want to read the above doc

Thanks Tony and GLMRK38  ;):) 

 

Ill have a read when i get chance

[TheBiscuits]

On 1/27/2018 at 15:52, GRLMK38 said:

For obvious reasons, I do not accept any liability for any installation issues caused by using the device or any installations not performed by myself.

Such as when someone puts a 300 A shunt inline with a 3000 W inverter and then the fridge kicks in while the dryer is running? 

[GRLMK38]

17 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:

Such as when someone puts a 300 A shunt inline with a 3000 W inverter and then the fridge kicks in while the dryer is running? 

That will be the fridge cooling down due to the heat of the dryer, perfectly logical