New stove, cold feet warm head.

[Robbo]

1 minute ago, Rob@BSSOffice said:

Assuming yours like this has the same CO safety and anti-fire tip over safety cut-out I would not rely 100% on that. I recommend you ensure you have also got good, working CO and smoke alarms.

Same model I linked too is the one I have.  I do have CO and smoke alarm as everyone should (the BSS should insist on this and not just for hire boats, it's not just stoves and gas appliances, but your neighbours running engine!).   

The safety features on the heater probably make it one of the safest heaters you could have aboard, a slight knock does automatically turn it off, the external case don't get hot, etc.   They do however create a lot of water vapour in the air which is bad for condensation!

[Glynn]

I have two of these, they are fantastic heaters and very safe.

 

[roland elsdon]

I would think that heater would invalidate coc. I remember refusing to insure boats pre coc because they had devices with  invented or internal fuel tanks. Particularly barges on tidal Thames with wheeled super ser heaters

[MtB]

2 minutes ago, roland elsdon said:

I would think that heater would invalidate coc. I remember refusing to insure boats pre coc because they had devices with  invented or internal fuel tanks. Particularly barges on tidal Thames with wheeled super ser heaters

 

I'd have thought them Super Ser cabinet heaters containing a whole 3.5kg butane gas bottle were an order of magnitude higher in risk than them paraffin heaters.

What's an invented fuel tank?

[roland elsdon]

Smellchucker for unvented 

[Robbo]

7 hours ago, roland elsdon said:

I would think that heater would invalidate coc. I remember refusing to insure boats pre coc because they had devices with  invented or internal fuel tanks. Particularly barges on tidal Thames with wheeled super ser heaters

Only has a 5litre tank so doesn’t need to be externally vented.

[roland elsdon]

Really that's new information to me ( having been forced to remove an internal tank in the past) so I can connect up a reflex stove nowadays without having an external filler and vent. That's good news. Never knew why I could have sodding great triangle tanks in the engine hole vented into the engine hole but had to have a separate vented tank for the heating.

[Robbo]

1 hour ago, roland elsdon said:

Really that's new information to me ( having been forced to remove an internal tank in the past) so I can connect up a reflex stove nowadays without having an external filler and vent. That's good news. Never knew why I could have sodding great triangle tanks in the engine hole vented into the engine hole but had to have a separate vented tank for the heating.

It's 27 litres max.

 

From BSS The guide..

 

Venting..

Notes – The hole in the top in the filler cap as provided by the original engine or fuel tank manufacturer, on tanks no more than 27 litres (6 gal) capacity is compliant.

 

Filling..

Notes – This requirement does not apply to the following provided there is no risk of unseen spillage:

■ historic (i.e. bone fide ex-working boat) diesel-engined narrowboats;

■ diesel tanks, of up to a maximum capacity of 27l (6gal) 

[peterboat]

19 hours ago, WotEver said:

Have you ever tried that in an auto? Like the Yanks do, right foot for go, left for stop?

I tried it once and screeched to a skidding halt - my left foot isn’t used to pressing gently. 

Always done it in autos, If I am honest I cant abide manual cars quicker we go all electric the better for me

[jddevel]

On 12/17/2017 at 16:42, Robbo said:

I’m looking at UFH as well.  Would be interested to know what system you went for

I`ve installed underfloor in my house on both floors and whilst very sophisticated with outdoor temperature sensors etc we have one problem and that is the time it takes to react. The principle is it works like a storage heater in my case with pipes set in a lean drymix screed which is on top of insulation thus reflecting the heat upwards. It`s the reaction time that`s the problem. In order to have a comfortable heat in the evening the heating comes on at about 3 in the afternoon so in Autumn and Spring when temperatures can suddenly drop  there is no instant reaction other than the sensors ignite the boiler but the floors take time to heat. The screed is helpful because of its` heat retention but I`m suspicious as to how long the wood flooring etc will retain the heat or whether the boiler will be on longer. With this experience and being lazy regarding cleaning solid fuel (we have a wood burning Rayburn at home as well) I installed a Webasto with rads which provide me with drying areas a airing cupboard above the calorifier and virtually instant heat. I bought and still have a brand new solid fuel burner for the boat but decided not to install it. I`m a leisure cruiser not live aboard.

[Robbo]

26 minutes ago, jddevel said:

I`ve installed underfloor in my house on both floors and whilst very sophisticated with outdoor temperature sensors etc we have one problem and that is the time it takes to react. The principle is it works like a storage heater in my case with pipes set in a lean drymix screed which is on top of insulation thus reflecting the heat upwards. It`s the reaction time that`s the problem. In order to have a comfortable heat in the evening the heating comes on at about 3 in the afternoon so in Autumn and Spring when temperatures can suddenly drop  there is no instant reaction other than the sensors ignite the boiler but the floors take time to heat. The screed is helpful because of its` heat retention but I`m suspicious as to how long the wood flooring etc will retain the heat or whether the boiler will be on longer. With this experience and being lazy regarding cleaning solid fuel (we have a wood burning Rayburn at home as well) I installed a Webasto with rads which provide me with drying areas a airing cupboard above the calorifier and virtually instant heat. I bought and still have a brand new solid fuel burner for the boat but decided not to install it. I`m a leisure cruiser not live aboard.

I'm not a fan of radiators and I'm planning a number of heating solutions..   Stove, UFH and some heater matrix's with a Kabola or Bubble PJ for the boiler and stove with back boiler.

[Sea Dog]

38 minutes ago, jddevel said:

I`ve installed underfloor in my house on both floors and whilst very sophisticated with outdoor temperature sensors etc we have one problem and that is the time it takes to react. The principle is it works like a storage heater in my case with pipes set in a lean drymix screed which is on top of insulation thus reflecting the heat upwards. It`s the reaction time that`s the problem. In order to have a comfortable heat in the evening the heating comes on at about 3 in the afternoon so in Autumn and Spring when temperatures can suddenly drop  there is no instant reaction other than the sensors ignite the boiler but the floors take time to heat. The screed is helpful because of its` heat retention but I`m suspicious as to how long the wood flooring etc will retain the heat or whether the boiler will be on longer. With this experience and being lazy regarding cleaning solid fuel (we have a wood burning Rayburn at home as well) I installed a Webasto with rads which provide me with drying areas a airing cupboard above the calorifier and virtually instant heat. I bought and still have a brand new solid fuel burner for the boat but decided not to install it. I`m a leisure cruiser not live aboard.

Much sense there, JD. Underfloor seems perfect for sustaining an even temperature in a well designed house through a Scandinavian winter. A boat isn't sufficiently well insulated and doesn't have the warm mass to heat up and release heat evenly over a long period. The Webasto type installation has the advantage of bringing a very cold boat up to a comfortable temperature throughout in about half an hour. I think it's hard to beat that for most boats - the stove taking the strain thereafter.  Still leaves you needing one of those big slippers you put both feet in though!

[peterboat]

For me the issue is different I have 5 kw of hot water to cool down so 100 meters of 22 mm under the floor on top of insulation is best for me it will warm the floor as my mates works the stove will provide heat as well so we should be ok but time will tell wont it?