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Ammeter vital to tell you charging current, so you can see when your batteries are full.  Volts gives you an idea of charge but without the current you cannot distinguish between 14.45 volts 90% charged and 14.46 99% charged but amps will be very different.

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I'd offer you need both meters (or something capable of displaying both Amps and Volts). I have a Victron BMV which, as a generalisation, I have displaying Amps when charging and Volts when not. You should find the BMV700 for about £125. (There's plenty of topics on here covering what you get from battery voltage or charging current readings and also why not to rely on the state of charge readings such meters give).

The BMV702 also allows you to see the voltage of your starter battery (or a couple of other things) but costs a fair bit more and many would say you don't need to continously monitor that.

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14 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

I'd offer you need both meters (or something capable of displaying both Amps and Volts). I have a Victron BMV which, as a generalisation, I have displaying Amps when charging and Volts when not. You should find the BMV700 for about £125. (There's plenty of topics on here covering what you get from battery voltage or charging current readings and also why not to rely on the state of charge readings such meters give).

The BMV702 also allows you to see the voltage of your starter battery (or a couple of other things) but costs a fair bit more and many would say you don't need to continously monitor that.

Some would say you don't need to continuously monitor any batteries.

Ian.

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1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

These quite popular on some Facebook groups and probably does all the OP wants or needs  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dc-120v-300a-wireless-volt-ammeter-power-meter-battery-charge-discharge-capacity/172278832577

What a super little thing that is :)

I wonder how accurate it is. 

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On ‎2017‎-‎10‎-‎29 at 19:53, WotEver said:

What a super little thing that is :)

I wonder how accurate it is. 

Not, according to a friend. It's not a intelligent one as a Victron or a NASA and the current draw is way higher.

So you'll still have to figure out your SoC as the battery indicator and wattage is more or less useless, but the V/A measures are not that far off.

He's content with it but will not buy another.

I recently bought one similar to for 12£ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No-Need-Shunt-120V30A-Meter-Positive-Negative-Current-Voltage-Self-Powered-Meter/162090354296?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Works ok but needs to be recalibrated after each powerup about 0.4A  and the "mode" button is on the back.  was going to install it in a old gauge housing.

Calibrating is automatic after you have pressed the button x times.

 

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6 minutes ago, forsberg said:

It's not a intelligent one as a Victron or a NASA and the current draw is way higher.

Well, it’s only a volt/current meter so doesn’t need much intelligence. The power consumption is quoted as 0.9W which is only about 70mA which is pretty negligible. 

Its also good for 300A whereas yours is only good for 30A. 

I might get one to play with. 

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On 29/10/2017 at 18:33, ianali said:

Some would say you don't need to continuously monitor any batteries.

Ian.

They would, and they may also have one of those little carts because they regularly move heavy things like, say, batteries!  

I'd say a method of continual (rather than continuous) monitoring is required because, If you don't have a means of telling that you've got them back to 100% after discharge and can't stop discharging before they go too low, most are not gonna last long. Or am I missing your point?

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On 29/10/2017 at 18:19, Sea Dog said:

 

The BMV702 also allows you to see the voltage of your starter battery (or a couple of other things) but costs a fair bit more and many would say you don't need to continously monitor that.

Note there is now a BMV712 "smart" version now out which has bluetooth, etc.

https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/bmv-712-smart

 

I have the Simarine Pico battery monitor and would recommend if you want something alittle more advanced.

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2 hours ago, WotEver said:

Well, it’s only a volt/current meter so doesn’t need much intelligence. The power consumption is quoted as 0.9W which is only about 70mA which is pretty negligible. 

Its also good for 300A whereas yours is only good for 30A. 

I might get one to play with. 

I couldn't resist, at £20 I've ordered one to play with....

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3 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

They would, and they may also have one of those little carts because they regularly move heavy things like, say, batteries!  

I'd say a method of continual (rather than continuous) monitoring is required because, If you don't have a means of telling that you've got them back to 100% after discharge and can't stop discharging before they go too low, most are not gonna last long. Or am I missing your point?

My point was that I don't spend much time monitoring my battery bank. I look at the voltage readout on my inverter in the morning and then cruise. If not moving for a day or more il check voltage mid afternoon and run engine as necessary. I Suppose I have learnt how much charging my bank requires from experience. Doing ok so far.

Ian.

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1 hour ago, ianali said:

My point was that I don't spend much time monitoring my battery bank. I look at the voltage readout on my inverter in the morning and then cruise. If not moving for a day or more il check voltage mid afternoon and run engine as necessary. I Suppose I have learnt how much charging my bank requires from experience. Doing ok so far.

Ian.

Well that's fair enough. I'd offer that there's benefit in checking the tail current before you stop charging so you can be sure the batteries are full again.  That said, mine is most often down in the 1 Amp range well before I'm mooring up - as yours might well be if you're cruising daily, whether you have the ability read it or not!  I do occasionally alter my cruise finish time for the sake of the batteries, or maybe (rarely) leave the engine on for a bit longer if it's a short leg though.

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17 hours ago, WotEver said:

Well, it’s only a volt/current meter so doesn’t need much intelligence. The power consumption is quoted as 0.9W which is only about 70mA which is pretty negligible. 

Its also good for 300A whereas yours is only good for 30A. 

I might get one to play with. 

They are available up to at least 400A, just quoted the 30A one as it's a pain to search them out on Ebay as the chinese fail to include the word "hall" as in Hall Effect Sensor in the ads.

As an inductive sensor it will show tail current even if a 30A and thats what we are mostly intrested in.

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