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3 inch tongue and groove


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Hello,

Found a supplier that does 3 inch tongue and groove with a good selection of wood to choose from here; https://www.wooduchoose.com

What wood would be recommended? Its for the ceiling and will be painted white. Anyone know of any other suppliers as well?

Accoya ® 
 (Modified Woods)
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 Ash (American White) 
 (Hardwood)
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 Beech (Euro) 
 (Hardwood)
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 Black Walnut (American) 
 (Hardwood)
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 Cedar 
 (Softwood)
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 Cherry 
 (Hardwood)
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 Douglas Fir 
 (Softwood)
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 Iroko 
 (Hardwood)
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 Larch (Siberian) 
 (Softwood)
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 Maple (American) 
 (Hardwood)
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 Meranti 
 (Hardwood)
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 Oak (American White) 
 (Hardwood)
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 Oak - Joinery Grade S/E (Euro) 
 (Hardwood)
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 Oak - Prime S/E (Euro) 
 (Hardwood)
Prime%20European%20Oak,%20Prime%20oak,%20Prime%20kiln%20dried%20oak1.jpg
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 Sapele 
 (Hardwood)
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 Scandinavian Redwood 
 (Softwood)
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 Southern Yellow Pine 
 (Softwood)
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 Steamed Beech 
 (Hardwood)
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 Teak 
 (Hardwood)
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 Tulipwood (Poplar) 
 (Hardwood)
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 Utile 
 (Hardwood)
Utile,%20utile%20wood,%20durable%20hardwood.jpg
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14 minutes ago, Jerra said:

I have no experience of this but if you intend to paint it then to me there is no point in going along the hardwood route.  I would look at the various softwood personally.

Some of the hardwood listed is actually cheaper than the softwood.   I'll not go for Teak, the £12K-16K price is a little out of my range :)

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21 minutes ago, Robbo said:

Some of the hardwood listed is actually cheaper than the softwood.   I'll not go for Teak, the £12K-16K price is a little out of my range :)

Fair enough.   My feeling was hardwood in general has nice grain and it would be a shame to hide it.  However if it is cost effective then it is sensible if a little aesthetically wrong to me.

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Try these people:

http://www.englishwoodlandstimber.co.uk/stocklist-coming-soon/

http://www.englishwoodlandstimber.co.uk/timber-services/profiles-moulding-timber/

You can buy packs of wood and they will run it off to your requirements. Tongue and groove, beading, trim, door frames etc. Great as it all matches and the pack wood price can work out cheaper and with the machining it's very competitive.

Not used them myself but they have been recommended to me buy a few chippies.

  • Greenie 1
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2 minutes ago, WotEver said:

The cheapest. 

To be honest, if I wanted the cheapest I would go for 4” TGV from wicks!   My fav at the moment is Tulip Wood, it’s a cheaper hardwood but has good quality’s for TnG like minimal movement and excellent for painting on if you want a smooth finish like I do.

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1 hour ago, Robbo said:

To be honest, if I wanted the cheapest I would go for 4” TGV from wicks!

4" T&G from Wickes wasn't listed in your OP. You stated that some of the hardwoods were cheaper than the Douglas Fir, so of the choices you listed I'd go for the cheapest, seeing as you'll be covering up all of the natural features anyway. 

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4 minutes ago, WotEver said:

4" T&G from Wickes wasn't listed in your OP. You stated that some of the hardwoods were cheaper than the Douglas Fir, so of the choices you listed I'd go for the cheapest, seeing as you'll be covering up all of the natural features anyway. 

The difference in cost of the tulip and some of the softwoods isn’t that much, especially when comparing with a cheaper alternative (although not really what I want), that’s what I meant.  Also fir isn’t as brilliant  for painting on.

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I can see some benefit from using hardwood, even if it is going to be painted.  It is usually more stable and less inclined to warp or shrink.  Having said that, the cheap 'hardwoods' like the tulipwood may well be no more stable than decent softwood.  Poplar may well be classed as a hardwood (so is balsa!), but I don't think it is a lot 'harder' than good quality softwood.

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8 minutes ago, dor said:

I can see some benefit from using hardwood, even if it is going to be painted.  It is usually more stable and less inclined to warp or shrink.  Having said that, the cheap 'hardwoods' like the tulipwood may well be no more stable than decent softwood.  Poplar may well be classed as a hardwood (so is balsa!), but I don't think it is a lot 'harder' than good quality softwood.

It’s the reason I asked, basically what’s the best woods for the job.   Not bothered if it’s soft or hard just what is recommended to get a good finish with minimal movement.  Looking through the list Tulip looks good, but I don’t know my woods.

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23 minutes ago, Robbo said:

It’s the reason I asked, basically what’s the best woods for the job.   Not bothered if it’s soft or hard just what is recommended to get a good finish with minimal movement.  Looking through the list Tulip looks good, but I don’t know my woods.

From the choices in your OP I'd select Birch. It's reasonably stable, smooth, and sands to a super-smooth surface. The yard might charge more for machining it though as it'll blunt their tools faster than some woods. 

I saw a boat being boarded out in cherry once - it looked gorgeous but of course it wasn't going to be painted. You'll want to avoid woods with wild grain like sapele or utile. 

Edited by WotEver
Tryping
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1 minute ago, WotEver said:

Also, you could do a lot worse than ask your supplier for their suggestion. They know their prices off the top of their head and can balance 'best' vs cost. 

That’s true, but I also like asking the hive we have here as we usually are up on a wide area of things.   Thanks for the recommendation.  The sites quite good as you can see all the estimates for the wood altogether for your chosen length.

 

Ive also got some end walls to do in TnG as well these will not be painted and looking for a dark red wood like a cherry.

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52 minutes ago, Robbo said:

Ive also got some end walls to do in TnG as well these will not be painted and looking for a dark red wood like a cherry.

I'd go with cherry. The two 'mahoganies' mentioned above can have very wild grain whereas cherry is lovely and smooth. Be sure to insist on no sapwood though as it's a creamy yellow. 

Edited by WotEver
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3 minutes ago, WotEver said:

I'd go with cherry. The two 'mahoganies' mentioned above can have very wild grain whereas cherry is lovely and smooth. Be sure to insist on no heart wood though as it's a creamy yellow. 

I find that surprising as all wood I have ever come across it is the reverse.  Heartwood dark owing to the material laid down in it as it ages and the sap wood light.  Yew being an example.

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13 minutes ago, Jerra said:

I find that surprising as all wood I have ever come across it is the reverse.  Heartwood dark owing to the material laid down in it as it ages and the sap wood light.  Yew being an example.

Yes of course - I meant sapwood. I've corrected my post. 

Thanks for pointing out my schoolboy error. :)

Here's an example I just found on the web:

home-design.jpg

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One thing I would say, make sure you slap a coat of paint on it before you put it up, both sides of your patient but certainly the rear face.

This will keep it straighter over winter when the humidity rises. Certainly if using something like Ash which is a little less stable than others.

Daniel

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This is just a suggestion, and will probably be seen by many as heresy, but if you're going to paint it, why not use moisture resistant MDF and make the 'V' grooves yourself with a router? The best timber is generally characterized by its tight parallel grain and lack of knots; features easily achieved with an average quality paintbrush. I've seen a few higher-end boat-builders who have no qualms at all about using MDF provided it's moisture resistant. My initial reaction was disbelief but I now intend to do all of my ceilings and walls with it.

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4 minutes ago, stegra said:

This is just a suggestion, and will probably be seen by many as heresy, but if you're going to paint it, why not use moisture resistant MDF and make the 'V' grooves yourself with a router?

I was thinking exactly the same thing myself.

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Just now, stegra said:

HaHa. I saw the notification and thought the heretics had started already.

The heretics generally go to bed early but they'll be along in their droves later ;)

 

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