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help to unseize immersion in calorifier please!


IainW

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Cut a little nich in the side of the nut with a sharp cold chisel and then present a blunt cold chisel to the nich in the undo direction and clout it with a heavy hammer. Erm, don't forget to have it full of water first.

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25 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Cut a little nich in the side of the nut with a sharp cold chisel and then present a blunt cold chisel to the nich in the undo direction and clout it with a heavy hammer. Erm, don't forget to have it full of water first.

How do you fill a chisel with water?

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7 hours ago, bizzard said:

Cut a little nich in the side of the nut with a sharp cold chisel and then present a blunt cold chisel to the nich in the undo direction and clout it with a heavy hammer. Erm, don't forget to have it full of water first.

i tried that, but not by cutting a notch, i hit an indent just inboard of the nut side. I even took a small breaker chisel to it with terrifying results...

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If you do go down the blow torch route to degrade the PTFE tape used to seal the thread then from about 260c the PTFE will start to decompose and give off some noxious gasses.  From memory when you get above something like 450c small amounts of HF can be generated, so plenty of ventilation.  I don't remember why, but PTFE fumes from overheating can be highly toxic to birds, so if you have a pet bird, keep it well away.  You will also need to cut back the polyurethane insulation as that gives off a lot of nasties if it burns.  Keep the tank almost full and that way the bit you want hot will be but the water will keep the rest cooler.  When cleaning up the gooey mess wear good gloves and rinse frequently as you don't want this stuff on your skin.  In fact thinking about it, the blow torch is not a good idea and brute force is probably the best way to go.

Good luck.

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7 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

The first thing I would do would be to shoot whoever did that instalation in that location and if it was myself to shoot myself.

Cue cries of "But it works!" ;)

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Haha but it works! Until any maintenance is required :-)

3 hours ago, Chewbacka said:

If you do go down the blow torch route to degrade the PTFE tape used to seal the thread then from about 260c the PTFE will start to decompose and give off some noxious gasses.  From memory when you get above something like 450c small amounts of HF can be generated, so plenty of ventilation.  I don't remember why, but PTFE fumes from overheating can be highly toxic to birds, so if you have a pet bird, keep it well away.  You will also need to cut back the polyurethane insulation as that gives off a lot of nasties if it burns.  Keep the tank almost full and that way the bit you want hot will be but the water will keep the rest cooler.  When cleaning up the gooey mess wear good gloves and rinse frequently as you don't want this stuff on your skin.  In fact thinking about it, the blow torch is not a good idea and brute force is probably the best way to go.

Good luck.

Too late, my pet canary just took one for the team :-(

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I just fitted an Essex flange to my hot tank at home for a power shower, much easier to fit than expected, though it was to a brand new tank as the hot water stopped flowing out of the old one due to it being almost half full of scale.  I now have 3 rubble bags full of white 'sand' for the tip.

Don't think you can get em bigger than 28mm.

Edited by Chewbacka
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On 18/04/2017 at 16:46, Chewbacka said:

I just fitted an Essex flange to my hot tank at home for a power shower, much easier to fit than expected, though it was to a brand new tank as the hot water stopped flowing out of the old one due to it being almost half full of scale.  I now have 3 rubble bags full of white 'sand' for the tip.

Don't think you can get em bigger than 28mm.

Yes yer can. 2.25"BSP essex flanges are made specifically for immersion heaters.

s-l1600.jpg

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Essex-2-25-E2-SX-Immersion-Heater-Boss-Flange-CURVED-surface-cylinder-tank-e2-r/291209819359?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190705%26meid%3D489c3f906dce44809d8a5809b1353b9b%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26

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28 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

I have fitted these to domestic cylinders which tend to be larger in diameter so not so much curve to the wall and also thinner copper. When I fitted a couple of 22mm ones to my calorifier I had to do a bit of panel beating to flatten out the side. Also the standard Essex Flange washer dosen't like water at 80C

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On 18 April 2017 at 00:26, WotEver said:

How do you fill a chisel with water?

Ahh so is this where the term water hammer comes from too.

You "hear" about these things lol...

Pleased you got it out, I don't need to keep looking at the post now.

Well done.

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so far so good, i cleaned the faces and re-tightened with just the supplied O-ring (and maybe a smattering of PTFE tape on the threads but i'll not admit to that). No leaks as yet and we have hot water :-) one unintended plus side is that i've scraped away enough insulation that any water that leaks through the threads will spill over the side rather than gathering in the electrics and frying it, not that i'm hoping for leaks...

thanks again for the sage advice folks...

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