Failing freshwater pumps

[capnthommo]

Hi folks. Not been here for a while but I'm struggling yet again with fresh water pumps. Our third in less than seven years is on its way out. I've tried shureflo and whale neither lasts more than a couple of years. Can anybody recommend one that will. I'm a liveaboard so obviously they get reasonably heavy use but even so, they just don't seem up to the job. Any help would be good. Cheers

[rusty69]

16 minutes ago, capnthommo said:

Hi folks. Not been here for a while but I'm struggling yet again with fresh water pumps. Our third in less than seven years is on its way out. I've tried shureflo and whale neither lasts more than a couple of years. Can anybody recommend one that will. I'm a liveaboard so obviously they get reasonably heavy use but even so, they just don't seem up to the job. Any help would be good. Cheers

We are on second year of jabsco  Parmax. Having been through years of shurflo s. Too early to recommend, but we were only getting two years out of a shurflo. 

 

I tend to view them as consumables like batteries, and suspect a 240v would be the only answer. 

How has it failed? 

Edited March 10, 2017 by rusty69

[capnthommo]

1 minute ago, rusty69 said:

We are on second year of jabsco  Parmax. Having been through years of shurflo s. Too early to recommend, but we were only getting two years out of a shurflo. 

Thanks. That appears to be what we've got from shureflo and whale. Shurflo, the casing leaked and then the motor refused to cut out, and both whales the motor became intermittent (refusing to start) before finally giving out entirely. Very disappointing. It seems as if they're just shabby. I sure wouldn't expect, say, a central heating pump to fail even in ten years. Tbh I wouldn't mind paying more for something better made.

[adrianh]

If you don't mlnd paying have a look at Stuart Turner Pumps. They make 12 or  24 volt  pumps that   can be configured as booster pumps ( technically this is what  a sureflo etc is). You do  need a positive head of  water to feed the pump  though. They have a proper motor and full spares. Your pumps with  non running  motors may  just  need new motor brushes, they  wear out by design!

[capnthommo]

I'll give them a look. Sounds like I could make that work.  And I'll give whale a ring although they replaced the first one as 'broken' so I'm not confident. Cheers. 

[Jess--]

also if it's a problem of pump failing to start it could be as simple as a failing pressure switch

[blackrose]

I've been through the same search for a pump which is suitable for liveaboard use, and I've been told that for the price you won't get better than a Jabsco.

https://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/pumps/pressurised-fresh-water-pumps/

Have a look on ebay and amazon too.

[Tony Brooks]

8 hours ago, Jess-- said:

also if it's a problem of pump failing to start it could be as simple as a failing pressure switch

Absolutely and from there it may be dirt in the tank coming through and packing the pressure switch diaphragm or blocking the small hole feeding the diaphragm.

[rusty69]

Nobody has mentioned the square d external pressure switch on this thread yet. It is a worth while addition which Tonyb normally recommends. 

[Neil2]

Here's an extreme example - I recently replaced a Shurflo which had lasted nearly 30 years, typical fault with the casing but I didn't think it worth repairing.  I bought the equivalent modern version but when I fitted it I couldn't get the damn thing to cut out.  I assumed I must have a leak somewhere, it never occurred to me that the problem could be with the pump, but exasperated I took the thing back to MC and sure enough it was the brand new pump that was at fault.   

I wondered at the time whether Jabsco would have been a better choice but I can't think that any of the modern versions are going to be significantly more durable than the rest.  I'd be very open to a convincing argument though.

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, Neil2 said:

- I recently replaced a Shurflo which had lasted nearly 30 years

Was it a Springsteen pump........ Born in the USA? 

[dmr]

Jabsco are quite good, but best thing is to fit stop valves either side of the pump and ensure good access so that they can be changed quickly, and maybe carry a spare. Some people suggest a remote switch but these are quite costly so its probably easier just to replace the pump. In my experience (limited to only my own boat and reading stuff here) a failure due to leakage is almost as common as switch failure so the remote switch is questionable unless you want better control of pressures.

.................Dave

[bizzard]

I discovered a long while ago how to prolong the life of Surflo pumps, as far as leaks go anyway and probably to enhance the life of the cut out switch.  But I don't think most folk would be bothered with the simple and quick procedure. My present Surflow Aquaking pump has given no trouble at all in 9 years.

[mross]

Please do tell!  It's going to be weird or fascinating or useful and possibly all three!

[capnthommo]

Thanks to everybody replying on this. I've got a couple of interesting options to look at now so I have somewhere to go. Thanks again.

[bizzard]

Its very very simple but does defeat the object of them being ''on demand pumps'' a bit. All that's needed is a pump switch near the sink in the galley and one in the bathroom, double wired.  After use just switch the pump of, crack a tap open for a couple of seconds to relieve some pressure and close it again. I've proved that by leaving them under constant pressure seems to strain and distort the plastic body after a while and seems to prolong the life of the cutout switch too.

[Iain_S]

17 hours ago, capnthommo said:

Thanks. That appears to be what we've got from shureflo and whale. Shurflo, the casing leaked and then the motor refused to cut out, and both whales the motor became intermittent (refusing to start) before finally giving out entirely. Very disappointing. It seems as if they're just shabby. I sure wouldn't expect, say, a central heating pump to fail even in ten years. Tbh I wouldn't mind paying more for something better made.

The whale problems sound very like pressure switch problems. It's well worth fitting either a separate "Square D" type switch, or use the pump's switch to operate an automotive type relay which switches the actual pump. 

[Naughty Cal]

Liam had to change the pressure switch on our Flojet water pump yesterday as this failed last week.

Good as new again now.

The switch was about £20. So a damn sight cheaper than a new pump.

[WotEver]

 

24 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:

Liam had to change the pressure switch on our Flojet water pump yesterday as this failed last week.

Did he fit a Square D so that he'll never have to do it again?

[Naughty Cal]

1 minute ago, WotEver said:

 

Did he fit a Square D so that he'll never have to do it again?

No. He fitted the direct replacement part made by Xylem for the Flojet pumps.

The old one lasted 7 years. No reason to suspect the replacement shouldn't last just as long. 

[BWM]

21 hours ago, bizzard said:

Its very very simple but does defeat the object of them being ''on demand pumps'' a bit. All that's needed is a pump switch near the sink in the galley and one in the bathroom, double wired.  After use just switch the pump of, crack a tap open for a couple of seconds to relieve some pressure and close it again. I've proved that by leaving them under constant pressure seems to strain and distort the plastic body after a while and seems to prolong the life of the cutout switch too.

Interesting concept, if the pressure is affecting the pump or pressure switch would a non return valve between pump and accumulator have similar effect?

[WotEver]

Just now, BWM said:

Interesting concept, if the pressure is affecting the pump or pressure switch would a non return valve between pump and accumulator have similar effect?

I can't see how. The pump would still have to see the same pressure on its output no matter how short that pipe might be. 

[smileypete]

On 12/03/2017 at 08:33, BWM said:

Interesting concept, if the pressure is affecting the pump or pressure switch would a non return valve between pump and accumulator have similar effect?

You'd need a bypass valve to bleed a tiny amount of water back to the tank side from between pump and non return valve, to relieve the pressure on the output side of the pump.

Edited March 13, 2017 by smileypete