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Going rates - welding/labour?


OliveOyl

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2 minutes ago, OliveOyl said:

What sort of cost would be involved to put a couple of eyes on the front of a boat in order to fit a fender? 

 

 

That will usualy depend on how long your eyelashes are and how fluttery for the fairer sex.

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In the currant situation I would suggest and old wheelbarrow or go-cart tyre drilled on two places just above the metal bead and tied back to the T stud. If the boat is a Springer then why not drill a couple of holes in the "breakwater" upstand.

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Just now, Tony Brooks said:

In the currant situation I would suggest and old wheelbarrow or go-cart tyre drilled on two places just above the metal bead and tied back to the T stud. If the boat is a Springer then why not drill a couple of holes in the "breakwater" upstand.

Blimey Tony " Breakwater upstand " thats posh!! I have always called it the mousetache.

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12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

In the currant situation I would suggest and old wheelbarrow or go-cart tyre drilled on two places just above the metal bead and tied back to the T stud. If the boat is a Springer then why not drill a couple of holes in the "breakwater" upstand.

Lordy, Lordy, Tony - if I knew what a 'breakwater upstand' was, I would be hot-footing it down the towpath right this minute with me trusty old Bosch hammer-action drill! :D

Seriously, I would  like some idea of the going rate though, and trust some of you knowledgeable souls will give me some idea.

Many thanks

 

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Just now, OliveOyl said:

Lordy, Lordy, Tony - if I knew what a 'breakwater upstand' was, I would be hot-footing it down the towpath right this minute with me trusty old Bosch hammer-action drill! :D

Seriously, I would  like some idea of the going rate though, and trust some of you knowledgeable souls will give me some idea.

Many thanks

 

Twenty quid if you rock up when other welding work is being done. Or just flutter the lids. :D

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18 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

That will usualy depend on how long your eyelashes are and how fluttery for the fairer sex.

Sadly, the shortness of my eyelashes is only matched by the shortness of my legs, and I am far too honest to do the helpless female bit ^_^ 

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5 minutes ago, OliveOyl said:

Sadly, the shortness of my eyelashes is only matched by the shortness of my legs, and I am far too honest to do the helpless female bit ^_^ 

Seriously it will depend on where you take it, the attitude of the people there, if other welding work is being done with a welder and his kit already in use, space to work, how relaxed you are as to timescale etc. Its nowt of a job so no big deal.

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If you feel confident you could always drill the hull and fit an eye bolt, nut and washer. An eye bolt has a big eye instead of a hexagon. They come in a variety of sizes.

 

If you look at your son's boat on the bow and for about 12" either side of the pointy bit you have two pieces of metal that stand up from the deck plate.

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4 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

If you feel confident you could always drill the hull and fit an eye bolt, nut and washer. An eye bolt has a big eye instead of a hexagon. They come in a variety of sizes.

 

If you look at your son's boat on the bow and for about 12" either side of the pointy bit you have two pieces of metal that stand up from the deck plate.

Take notice......Tony knows his stuff.

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Do you supply the eyes or does your welder have to go to the shop and get them for you? etc etc. As has been said, the welding itself is just a few moments, discussing the exact position with you will take as long, as getting the stuff from the van to the boat will take longer. Boatyard rates are £45 to £55 per hour but they do have to pay rent for that boatyard. Itinerant boat based welders can be as cheap as £10 per hour.

............Dave

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21 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

If you feel confident you could always drill the hull and fit an eye bolt, nut and washer. An eye bolt has a big eye instead of a hexagon. They come in a variety of sizes.

 

If you look at your son's boat on the bow and for about 12" either side of the pointy bit you have two pieces of metal that stand up from the deck plate.

Thanks Tony, I'm nothing if not resourceful!

 

On that point, I tried to drill a small hole on my back deck the other day, as rainwater is a huge problem on my boat, and does not drain away properly. Absolutely no effect whatsoever! I might as well have used a matchstick. I checked with a friend beforehand what type of drill bit to use, and even scared myself by putting it onto hammer action, but it achieved nothing, let alone a hole.

 

Suggestions anyone?

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7 minutes ago, OliveOyl said:

Thanks Tony, I'm nothing if not resourceful!

 

On that point, I tried to drill a small hole on my back deck the other day, as rainwater is a huge problem on my boat, and does not drain away properly. Absolutely no effect whatsoever! I might as well have used a matchstick. I checked with a friend beforehand what type of drill bit to use, and even scared myself by putting it onto hammer action, but it achieved nothing, let alone a hole.

 

Suggestions anyone?

Yes I suggest NOT using hammer action when drilling steel :D

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5 minutes ago, OliveOyl said:

Thanks Tony, I'm nothing if not resourceful!

 

On that point, I tried to drill a small hole on my back deck the other day, as rainwater is a huge problem on my boat, and does not drain away properly. Absolutely no effect whatsoever! I might as well have used a matchstick. I checked with a friend beforehand what type of drill bit to use, and even scared myself by putting it onto hammer action, but it achieved nothing, let alone a hole.

 

Suggestions anyone?

Yes  go and get some new SHARP drill bits and do NOT use hammer action, thats strictly for those poor buggers who live in bricks and mortar.

Drill a small "pilot" hole first, but not too small or yerl break yer new drill bits. I find about 3mm 'bout right.  Then gradually go through with bigger drill bits. Keep the drill turning slow with firm but not excessive pressure. If the bits getting hot and not making iron filings then its blunt. If you get it spot on it makes little curly metal worms rather than metallic fairy dust.

....................Dave

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3 minutes ago, dmr said:

Yes  go and get some new SHARP drill bits and do NOT use hammer action, thats strictly for those poor buggers who live in bricks and mortar.

Drill a small "pilot" hole first, but not too small or yerl break yer new drill bits. I find about 3mm 'bout right.  Then gradually go through with bigger drill bits. Keep the drill turning slow with firm but not excessive pressure. If the bits getting hot and not making iron filings then its blunt. If you get it spot on it makes little curly metal worms rather than metallic fairy dust.

....................Dave

Also make sure the drill is turning the right way, several revers these days.

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Use a cobalt drill with plenty of coolant/lube and not too fast.  A cobalt drill bit is a fast cutter but will get hot quickly if not kept cool.  Get it hot and it is ruined.  Otherwise use a decent Bosch type drill bit.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68884

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p65460

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p75018

and ONLY use hammer when drilling masonry with a masonry bit.

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2 hours ago, dmr said:

Do you supply the eyes or does your welder have to go to the shop and get them for you? etc etc. As has been said, the welding itself is just a few moments, discussing the exact position with you will take as long, as getting the stuff from the van to the boat will take longer. Boatyard rates are £45 to £55 per hour but they do have to pay rent for that boatyard. Itinerant boat based welders can be as cheap as £10 per hour.

............Dave

I would happily supply the eyes, and I accept they have overheads, but they're having a giraffe.

2 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

Also make sure the drill is turning the right way, several revers these days.

Thanks Ditch but mine doesn't

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1 hour ago, Chewbacka said:

Use a cobalt drill with plenty of coolant/lube and not too fast.  A cobalt drill bit is a fast cutter but will get hot quickly if not kept cool.  Get it hot and it is ruined.  Otherwise use a decent Bosch type drill bit.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68884

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p65460

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p75018

and ONLY use hammer when drilling masonry with a masonry bit.

Thanks Chew, I was going to use those my friend told me to use the gold coloured ones :mellow:

 

And is the 'use lubrication' bit for real??? If so, where and what sort?

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2 minutes ago, OliveOyl said:

And is the 'use lubrication' bit for real??? If so, where and what sort?

Absolutely. It's to keep the cutting edge of the drill cool. As soon as it gets too hot it loses its cutting edge and will never cut another hole  

3-in-1 oil is a good cutting lubricant. 

Tony

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8 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Absolutely. It's to keep the cutting edge of the drill cool. As soon as it gets too hot it loses its cutting edge and will never cut another hole  

3-in-1 oil is a good cutting lubricant. 

Tony

Brilliant, thanks Wot.

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8 hours ago, bargemast said:

Just a bit of safety advise, when you're drilling or grinding always wear eye-protection, many people never do and always get away with it until.........

 

Peter.

Thanks Barge  - I didn't, but will next time.

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