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22mm to 22mm drain valve - Where?


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Not boat related, but may help a boater in passing.

 

Our house water stop tap only stops the feed to part of the ground floor so, rather than having one fitted before the T, (complicated and awkward), we are having a second stop tap fitted to the rest of the circuit.

 

The plumber tells us that he wants to fit a drain valve in the vertical pipe above the stop tap, so that any water in the circuit can be drained off in order to resolve any issues.

 

The pipe work is 22mm and he is struggling to find a 22mm to 22mm connector with a drain valve. He says the norm is a 22mm to 15mm connector with a drain, but he doesn't want to take the diameter to 15mm and back to 22mm - seemingly for reasons of pressure.

 

I've done a bit of a google and can find things called 22mm "Y" filters, but they don't look like a pipe could be attached to drain a system.

 

Any ideas? I guess I'm aiming at the actual plumbers here like MtB, but it's possible that anyone could have solved this issue in the past.

 

Many thanks,

 

Richard

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MCFastybloke, on 31 Jan 2017 - 6:37 PM, said:

22mm /15mm branch reducing Tee with drain off in the reduced arm?Cost less then a fiver and available everywhere.

I was just about to say that - then I saw your post !!

Probably quite neat as well.

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Not boat related, but may help a boater in passing.

 

Our house water stop tap only stops the feed to part of the ground floor so, rather than having one fitted before the T, (complicated and awkward), we are having a second stop tap fitted to the rest of the circuit.

 

The plumber tells us that he wants to fit a drain valve in the vertical pipe above the stop tap, so that any water in the circuit can be drained off in order to resolve any issues.

 

The pipe work is 22mm and he is struggling to find a 22mm to 22mm connector with a drain valve. He says the norm is a 22mm to 15mm connector with a drain, but he doesn't want to take the diameter to 15mm and back to 22mm - seemingly for reasons of pressure.

 

I've done a bit of a google and can find things called 22mm "Y" filters, but they don't look like a pipe could be attached to drain a system.

 

Any ideas? I guess I'm aiming at the actual plumbers here like MtB, but it's possible that anyone could have solved this issue in the past.

 

Many thanks,

 

Richard

hey, give us your plumber's phone number, he sounds like a good 'un. frusty.gif

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He's a general builder rather than a plumber, but he turns up when he says he will, and generally diagnoses thing better than real plumbers when they do turn up, and his work to date has been good and has survived.

 

A real plumber didnt even find that we have one stop tap that doesn't do the job properly.

 

I'm happy to work with this guy even if there might be a few things he isn't sure about.

 

In fairness to him, he said he was finding it difficult to find the particular part in time for the job tomorrow. The job is urgent as we are having new carpet fitted on Thursday and my wife would rather not have the builders/plumbers in after they've gone down - so he is actually doing me a big favour.

 

Anyway, I've suggested the 22mm with a 15mm branch, plus a 15mm drain cock, which he might be able to get from B & Q on his way.

 

Thanks for the info - it solves the issue.

 

Dont worry - nobody will be getting his number :)


 

Many thanks! Exactly like that and I might get one for fitting at a later date. As above, the issue is immediate, but hopefully B&Q or one of the other shops should have the work around stuff.

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He's a general builder rather than a plumber, but he turns up when he says he will, and generally diagnoses thing better than real plumbers when they do turn up, and his work to date has been good and has survived.

 

A real plumber didnt even find that we have one stop tap that doesn't do the job properly.

 

I'm happy to work with this guy even if there might be a few things he isn't sure about.

 

In fairness to him, he said he was finding it difficult to find the particular part in time for the job tomorrow. The job is urgent as we are having new carpet fitted on Thursday and my wife would rather not have the builders/plumbers in after they've gone down - so he is actually doing me a big favour.

 

Anyway, I've suggested the 22mm with a 15mm branch, plus a 15mm drain cock, which he might be able to get from B & Q on his way.

 

Thanks for the info - it solves the issue.

 

Dont worry - nobody will be getting his number smile.png

 

Many thanks! Exactly like that and I might get one for fitting at a later date. As above, the issue is immediate, but hopefully B&Q or one of the other shops should have the work around stuff.

Plumb Centre http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/branch/

post-261-0-69991300-1485896643_thumb.jpg

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Just made up exactly that for our central heating, 22 15 22 reduced "T" compression fitting, with a drain cock. Ours was to help bleed the central heating as we get an airlock that can take 2 hours to clear following a complete drain down. 5 minute job now.

All parts from Toolstation.

 

When I do any work on old pipe work I always use compression fittings, not soldered or Yorkshire fittings, as once, a few drops of water came from a place that a few drops of water come from, and killed the solder joint.

 

Rather than use stopcocks or gate valves, which seize and leak, I now use good quality full bore lever ball valves. Time will tell how these perform. They are bulkier than stopcocks so you need room to activate too.

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When I do any work on old pipe work I always use compression fittings, not soldered or Yorkshire fittings, as once, a few drops of water came from a place that a few drops of water come from, and killed the solder joint.

You must have forgotten to put the bread in to catch the drops. White sliced, not toasted.

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He's a general builder rather than a plumber, but he turns up when he says he will, and generally diagnoses thing better than real plumbers when they do turn up, and his work to date has been good and has survived.

 

A real plumber didnt even find that we have one stop tap that doesn't do the job properly.

 

I'm happy to work with this guy even if there might be a few things he isn't sure about.

 

In fairness to him, he said he was finding it difficult to find the particular part in time for the job tomorrow. The job is urgent as we are having new carpet fitted on Thursday and my wife would rather not have the builders/plumbers in after they've gone down - so he is actually doing me a big favour.

 

Anyway, I've suggested the 22mm with a 15mm branch, plus a 15mm drain cock, which he might be able to get from B & Q on his way.

 

Thanks for the info - it solves the issue.

 

Dont worry - nobody will be getting his number smile.png

 

Many thanks! Exactly like that and I might get one for fitting at a later date. As above, the issue is immediate, but hopefully B&Q or one of the other shops should have the work around stuff.

What i suggested is not a work around,it will be available at any of the sheds, diy shop or merchants in end feed, yorkshire,pushfit and compression,This is a plumbers solution.

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Rather than use stopcocks or gate valves, which seize and leak, I now use good quality full bore lever ball valves. Time will tell how these perform.

 

 

Bad move. These have been available for about 20 years now and the seals tend to stick to the moving ball over extended periods of time. This leads to the valve leaking (sometimes quite badly) when operated after 10 years undisturbed as the seal gets torn.

 

I hate the poxy things. I've learned NOT to operate them if they look more than a couple of years old, as the custard (plumberspeak for 'customer') tends to say 'well it was ok until you touched it'... So theses days I tell them they are likely to leak and need replacing before I touch them.

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All valves are troublesome. Some leak, some won't turn off. Some do both. Which is your preference?

 

Stop cocks have been least trouble for me. I realise lately that I'm using a lot of full bore iso valves. Much of my work is building new en-suites and it's handy to be able to run the pipes without having to fill them until all the fittings are in. Iso valves fit easily under floors etc. Once they're opened, they're unlikely ever to be used again.

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I think the way forward with any valve is to exercise them at least once a year. Then spend the next week or so chasing drips. Chinese take away containers are brilliant, placed under eack tap/ iso valve. Toilet paper tied in a knot and placed around each risky joint gives a quick clue as to where any leaks might be.

I hate isolator valves on toilets, or tanks in the loft, they rarely get exercised, rarely work when you need them, and often leak afterwards.

 

The isolators/valves that leak in our house..

Main stopcock, fine when open fully, but close it, and it drips. I tighten the gland nut slightly and it stops.

Stopcock in airing cupboard that feeds water to loft tank, not used for 6 years, once I managed to open it, it too leaked.

Gate valve for hotwater feed, siezed, crystals built up around gland too.

I think it's fair to say, like boilerman, have a spare stop tap, iso valve or ball valve to hand before tackling any isolator.

I spent longer fixing leaking valves than doing the job.

 

I have never changed a central heating water pump, I often wonder if the isolators on either side of the pump would actually work, after 15-20 years of non use. I did a part drain to replace a three port valve, that was straight forward, added the remainder of the inhibitor after.

 

Water quality, hardness also affects the reliability, we are in a soft water area, I find valves generally on the central heating fair the best, as long as inhibitors are being used. Recently I exercised all the rad valves and lockshields, to flush the heating system, and descale the boiler etc, I was pleased that non of them actually leaked, when you consider that new one only cost just over a pound lol

I have fitted lever ball valves to the feed to the conservatory, 5 years later, they closed with the pressure of one finger. No signs of any leaks or crystal build up. I am hoping they will perform well.

I once worked for a company that one division used a lot of lever ball valves for commercial chemical and dosing systems. They proved to be very reliable. Probably better quality than some of the cheaper versions from diy shops.

 

For a stop tap or gate valve, I never fully open it, I start by opening it fully, then close it a fraction of a turn. I like to have a bit of wiggle room, so when it does seize, you can start it in either direction, a few degrees at a time, forward back etc, increasing the movement each time. Works for me.

 

No doubt someone will take my comments and say how wrong some of them are and offer better advice, that would of course be great, and we can all learn from their professional training and experience but it has worked for me for over 40 plus years. I am not advising anyone to try what I have done, it is just feedback from my experience.

 

I love the debate from the plumbing world to ptfe a compression joint, or to hawk white it ( potable version for drinking water) or to assemble dry as designed. I personally prefer dry. I worked on a friends plumbing, following on from a retired plumber, and every compression joint was wrapped in ptfe, he said he never had a joint that leaked.

Each to their own lol.

Edited by RD1
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Thinking on, we have been talking about types of valves and potential leaks, but you also have to consider noise and pressure drop across a valve when water is actually flowing.

Full bore valves like ball valves are probably best, gate valves next, but there will be some turbulence as it's not smooth flow, with turbulance, comes noise and then a pressure drop.

 

The worst ones for pressure drop are of course the conventional stop cocks, water is first diverted at right angles through a restricted opening before being diverted again at right angles.

 

No wonder when you are having an electric heated shower you have a temporary scalding when someone flushes the loo.( some showers are designed to protect you from this).

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