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Possible silly newbie question alert - water heater


silverlode

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I have a calorifier under the bed, and a switch marked 'water heater' near the door. Does this need to be switched on while the engine is running, or will the water heat up automatically? Does the switch need to be on when the engine is off, or will this just flatten the batteries?

At the moment I never switch it on, and there's a small amount of hot water coming through, but only enough for a very quick wash.

I realise there are probably loads of variables, but any insight would be much appreciated.

Thank you all! :)

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I suspect that switch controls an immersion heater in the calorifier (hot water tank) but it just might control a gas fired boiler although I suspect not.

 

If it is an immersion heater then my advice would be to only use it when connected to a shoreline otherwise you might be powering it from an inverter. That implies discharging the batteries and using battery power to produce any form of heat is a very bad idea in most cases. It leads to a very short battery life of weeks or a few months.

 

So you need to trace the wires on the switch and see where they go and what they are connected to. If it is an immersion heater then never turn it on unless shore power is connected OR if you are cruising, your batteries are fully charged AND the alternator can produce sufficient electricity to power the immersion heater.

 

Normally the engine will heat the water automatically when the engine is running but you need to run for a fair time to get a full tank. The engine also needs to have a working thermostat. If you mean that running the engine only produces a little hot water then you are probably not running it for long enough AND if you are not on shore power this has implications for the state of your batteries.

 

If you are not on shore power and you are turning the switch on then it is possible the inverter is feeding the immersion heater but cutting itself out because of badly discharged batteries.

 

I think we need more detailed information from you about what you are trying to explain to us before we go further.

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Often the immersion heater won't work from the inverter as it would flatten the batteries quickly. When the immersion heater is on you should be able to hear it if you get close to the calorifier. So turn this switch on and off and have a listen. Alternatively, it might run a circulating pump which you can also listen for. As another method you could look at the electricity meter ashore and see if the switch makes a big difference to the consumption rate.

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If you're on a shore line - be aware that some immersion heaters are not very powerful and will take for ever to heat the water (normal domestic immersion heaters are quite slow to heat up anyway). 'No way' are either type an instant water heater.

That may explain the problem.

Otherwise come back with more details.

Every boat is different and 'we' are not clairvoyant (yet)!!!

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Sounds similar to mine. I have an immersion heater which I switch on when on shoreline, takes about an hour to heat the tank. Don't have this switched on with the engine running because the engine is heating the water anyway through the calorifier.

 

Maybe switch it on (if you're on shoreline) and after an hour if you have hot water - you have an answer.

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Thanks everyone! I think the switch is indeed to be used with shoreline power, which I don't have.

Long day of cruising today - I'll see if I get anything more than a 30 second lukewarm shower later!

Have you checked your engine coolant level since you set off, does your engine panel have a temperature gauge (if so how hot does the engine get) and what make of engine do you have.? There thats your homework for tonight.

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Thanks everyone! I think the switch is indeed to be used with shoreline power, which I don't have.

 

 

Do you mean you don't have shoreline power because you are out cruising, or do you mean your boat is not wired up to accept a shoreline even when it is available?

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Have you checked your engine coolant level since you set off, does your engine panel have a temperature gauge (if so how hot does the engine get) and what make of engine do you have.? There thats your homework for tonight.

Checked the coolant a couple of times. No temp gauge as far as I can tell, just an overheating warning light/alarm which went off the other day due to a loose fan belt (which has been tightened but will be replaced once I get to Manchester), and my Engine is a Vetus. I can check the exact model later if it matters.

 

 

Do you mean you don't have shoreline power because you are out cruising, or do you mean your boat is not wired up to accept a shoreline even when it is available?

Just because I'm out and about! I can connect when available.

Just a thought. Could the switch be for a pump that pumps the water from the engine to the water tank. As it's under the bed, in a previous life if may have got hot in bed, nice, but not in the summer.

Possibly, but I vaguely remember being told the switch was for when I'm connected to the mains - it came back to me once people suggested it!

Can you not contact the previous owner and ask.

 

Steve

I bought the boat through a broker, so can't ask the previous owner unfortunately!

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It is possible that you have a partial airlock in the calorifier heating circuit that is fed from the engine coolant. It is also possible that the thermostat has jammed open or has been removed in the mistaken belief that it will solve overheating problems. Can you borrow or possibly buy a (cheap) infrared thermometer so you can measure the temperature of the large, top engine cooling hose after it has been running an hour.

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Checked the coolant a couple of times. No temp gauge as far as I can tell, just an overheating warning light/alarm which went off the other day due to a loose fan belt (which has been tightened but will be replaced once I get to Manchester), and my Engine is a Vetus. I can check the exact model later if it matters.

 

 

No thats fine, so that should heat your water just fine, did you have hot water before the overheat incident. It should give you plenty of hot water.

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No thats fine, so that should heat your water just fine, did you have hot water before the overheat incident. It should give you plenty of hot water.

 

Providing you run the engine for long enough but for far less time than is needed to recharge a typical battery bank.

 

This is why I would like to know the engine's running temperature.

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I had an amazing hot shower last night, so I think it's safe to say everything is in order! smile.png

 

 

 

Thanks for the feedback, but what changed to get you the hot water?!

 

 

Did you just run the engine longer or did you find and rectify a fault somewhere?

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Thanks for the feedback, but what changed to get you the hot water?!

 

 

Did you just run the engine longer or did you find and rectify a fault somewhere?

I think I just wasn't running the engine for long enough - I've only recently moved onto the boat, and before that had been doing a few short journeys with a fair few gaps in between. I did tighten the fan belt (which needs replacing asap), I don't know if that would make a difference too?

 

I know that was affecting my batteries and overheating the engine because the coolant wasn't circulating - does this mean the calorifier wouldn't be as effective either?

Edited by silverlode
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I think I just wasn't running the engine for long enough - I've only recently moved onto the boat, and before that had been doing a few short journeys with a fair few gaps in between. I did tighten the fan belt (which needs replacing asap), I don't know if that would make a difference too?

 

I know that was affecting my batteries and overheating the engine because the coolant wasn't circulating - does this mean the calorifier wouldn't be as effective either?

I reckon so, if the water is pumped through it by the belt driven engines water pump, which it almost certainly is.

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